Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone had any issues with they're uca's hitting they're bumpstops at droop? On my 7 inch rough country lift when I hit a bump or drop off when the wheels extend down the uca seems to come in contact with the uca which feels very rough. Here is 2 pictures as you can see the uca's have the paint wore off the bumpstops from continuously hitting. And while the front is lifted the uca's just rest on the stops

 

Anyone have any tips or solutions

post-128822-0-24513700-1429740862_thumb.jpg

post-128822-0-40722200-1429740884_thumb.jpg

post-128822-0-24513700-1429740862_thumb.jpg

post-128822-0-40722200-1429740884_thumb.jpg

post-128822-0-24513700-1429740862_thumb.jpg

post-128822-0-40722200-1429740884_thumb.jpg

post-128822-0-24513700-1429740862_thumb.jpg

post-128822-0-40722200-1429740884_thumb.jpg

Posted

Well the time has come and I have decided to lift my truck 2014 GMC Sierra Sle z71. I am sold on the bds kits but I do not know whether to get the 6in or the 4 in kit. The tires I would like to get are 35 in toyo at2 with 20in fuel hostages. But I am also stuck on deciding whether to get 35s or 33s I really do not want to have to do any trimming. I am going to get the fox shocks in the rear with the leaf spring option as well. So the main questions I have are

 

1.Should I spend the extra money for the 6 in coilover kit?

2.should I go with the 6in or 4in lift kit ?

3.Should I go with 33s or 35s ?

4.Will there be a major change in the accuracy of the speedometer?

5.if there is can you please tell me how to fix that?

6. Can anyone who is running these kits show me pictures?

7. How is the ride after the lift?

8.how much is the change in mpg with the 6 and 4 in kits

If in the end if I do go with the 6in lift I am going to get 35s regardless I personally do not like the look of having all that lift and small tires. I was debating on 33s if I get the 4 in lift but it can also fit 35s .Im sorry for all the questions but this is the first time I am ever lifting a truck and I would like to do it right . I am open to all opinions and all replies are greatly appreciated

Posted

I've lifted every truck I've owned. I'd have to say the Zone 4.5 suspension is one of the best lifts I have had. Also just a FYI BDS and ZONE are both made by fox shocks. BDS is the high end kit but basically most of the same parts. BDS is a 4 or 6 inch kit and ZONE is a 4.5 or 6.

 

Zigs auto has the zone kits for $1195.00 free shipping. I was able to get it for $1075.00 free shipping and upgraded shocks. Great to buy from and fast shipping.

Posted

It's really not the lift size that changes your mpg it's the TIRE SIZE. I always try to stay with a 33 and my mpg stays close to the same as stock.

Posted

Stock vs 4.5 zone both have stock tire and wheels. I'll be installing the after market wheels and tire soon.

post-141603-0-81222200-1429791210_thumb.jpg

post-141603-0-81222200-1429791210_thumb.jpg

post-141603-0-81222200-1429791210_thumb.jpg

post-141603-0-81222200-1429791210_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Well the time has come and I have decided to lift my truck 2014 GMC Sierra Sle z71. I am sold on the bds kits but I do not know whether to get the 6in or the 4 in kit. The tires I would like to get are 35 in toyo at2 with 20in fuel hostages. But I am also stuck on deciding whether to get 35s or 33s I really do not want to have to do any trimming. I am going to get the fox shocks in the rear with the leaf spring option as well. So the main questions I have are

 

1.Should I spend the extra money for the 6 in coilover kit?

2.should I go with the 6in or 4in lift kit ?

3.Should I go with 33s or 35s ?

4.Will there be a major change in the accuracy of the speedometer?

5.if there is can you please tell me how to fix that?

6. Can anyone who is running these kits show me pictures?

7. How is the ride after the lift?

8.how much is the change in mpg with the 6 and 4 in kits

If in the end if I do go with the 6in lift I am going to get 35s regardless I personally do not like the look of having all that lift and small tires. I was debating on 33s if I get the 4 in lift but it can also fit 35s .Im sorry for all the questions but this is the first time I am ever lifting a truck and I would like to do it right . I am open to all opinions and all replies are greatly appreciated

I just ordered the BDS 6inch Coilover with leaf springs hopefully will have installed in the next couple weeks. I have 35x12.5 r 20 Mickey Thompson ATZ P3 which will go on my oem 20in wheels. The BDS 4 and 6in lifts are identical only difference is the strut length and rear block size. With the Coilover option BDS has told me I can adjust the lift height in front between 4 and 7 inches. It comes set at 6inches. I will be lowering the front about an inch to keep some rake. I hate towing a boat and the rear squatting down which would happen if the truck sat level. BDS also said the OE 20s will fit their lifts with 12.5 wide tires.

Posted

I am in the same exact boat as Hunter 79. From my research, I would echo the responses above in that BDS is a premier lift and Zone comes from the same parent. However, the BDS kit comes with skid plates and warranty, and replaces the struts where the Zone uses the stock struts and spacers. Either of BDS 4 or 6" kit will accept 35's and Zone states that 35's are "tight, may require trim" with the 4" lift. I think the owner has to evaluate how important mileage or performance is with either kit. With a lifted vehicle, both will suffer for numerous reasons. 35's weigh more and is more rotational impact than 33's, but for me, it is about balancing "the look" (4/33 or 6/35). Some 35's on 4 inch lifts look stuffed and 33's on a 6" lift look lost. You can re gear, but that is expensive. The speedo will be off by about 4-5 MPH but it does add up extra mileage on the odometer. You can recalibrate with a hand tuner, but it will show on the ECU and could void warranty.

 

I have driven a Pro Comp 6"/35" and I didn't think it was too bad (5.3L with 3.42), but it was a 13-15 MPG vehicle (real world). I can live with that, but not 8-10 MPG. I also drove a 4"/35" Pro Comp Rocky Ridge at the dealer and thought it was fine too. New technologies have really changed the ride quality with lifted vehicles.

 

I was not aware that the BDS coil over set up were adjustable 4-7". I would like to know more about that, as I would like to have some rake too. 5" in front and 6" in rear sounds ideal to me. Not sure if rear springs are needed over blocks. I do tow ATV and sleds, so I don't want a lot of squat. I am definitely in for BDS, just not sure what version to pull the trigger on, and plan to keep the stock 20's in any case. With 20's the 35's would offer more cushion for the sidewall of tire which would help ride. I would like to see more side by side pictures if anyone has some.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Here's a brief summary of the changes that take place when we increase the size of our tires.

Stock 18" tire - 265/65 18" (659 revolutions/mi.)

My tires - 35" x 12.50" 20 (602 revs./mi.)

*Tire specs based on Toyo AT II

Since our speedo/odo are based on hub revolutions, the calcs indicate the error factor. 659/602=1.0947. Therefore the mileage shown on your odometer needs to be multiplied by this 1.0947 factor to get the actual mileage on your truck. Also this factor can be used to calc your actual speed. At 60 mph on your speedo, you're actually going (60x1.0947) almost 66 mph. If you're running 33"s the error factor is 1.06. Again, everything is based on hub revolutions per mile(odometer), per minute (speedo). This is taking into consideration that a programmer has not been installed. If my calculations are incorrect somebody please let me know.

Edited by bkdR1
  • Like 2
Posted

I am going to be installing a mcgaughy 7-9" lift kit with 35" tires and went to my gm dealer and asked a service manager if they can reset the computer for 35" tires and they said it would be okay. Do you think it would void the warranty or is it even possible for them to do it. I have been hearing a lot of people on the forum saying dealers won't do it.

Posted

I am going to be installing a mcgaughy 7-9" lift kit with 35" tires and went to my gm dealer and asked a service manager if they can reset the computer for 35" tires and they said it would be okay. Do you think it would void the warranty or is it even possible for them to do it. I have been hearing a lot of people on the forum saying dealers won't do it.

 

Any dealer I hear that has done it has just bought an aftermarket recalibrator tool and done it

Posted

I am going to be installing a mcgaughy 7-9" lift kit with 35" tires and went to my gm dealer and asked a service manager if they can reset the computer for 35" tires and they said it would be okay. Do you think it would void the warranty or is it even possible for them to do it. I have been hearing a lot of people on the forum saying dealers won't do it.

The only warranty they can void is for your suspension components. ie if your suspension breaks, they can't and won't do anything under GM warranty since it's not GM parts. But if your fuse box somehow shorts how and ruins all the fuses in there then they still have to fix it unless they can somehow prove that it's linked to the suspension lift.

 

Like Steven said, any dealer I've seen also has just purchased some aftermarket tuner and used that. Then they'll give it to you. I'd say just get a custom tune to fix it or shop for a tuner that you like to do it yourself.

  • Like 1
Posted

Well the time has come and I have decided to lift my truck 2014 GMC Sierra Sle z71. I am sold on the bds kits but I do not know whether to get the 6in or the 4 in kit. The tires I would like to get are 35 in toyo at2 with 20in fuel hostages. But I am also stuck on deciding whether to get 35s or 33s I really do not want to have to do any trimming. I am going to get the fox shocks in the rear with the leaf spring option as well. So the main questions I have are

 

1.Should I spend the extra money for the 6 in coilover kit?

2.should I go with the 6in or 4in lift kit ?

3.Should I go with 33s or 35s ?

4.Will there be a major change in the accuracy of the speedometer?

5.if there is can you please tell me how to fix that?

6. Can anyone who is running these kits show me pictures?

7. How is the ride after the lift?

8.how much is the change in mpg with the 6 and 4 in kits

If in the end if I do go with the 6in lift I am going to get 35s regardless I personally do not like the look of having all that lift and small tires. I was debating on 33s if I get the 4 in lift but it can also fit 35s .Im sorry for all the questions but this is the first time I am ever lifting a truck and I would like to do it right . I am open to all opinions and all replies are greatly appreciated

Here are some pictures of my truck with the 6" BDS kit with coilovers, fox 2.0 shocks and rear leaf springs. Just remember that if you deviate from BDS' suggested wheel/tire combinations you can expected to trim.

 

65f05446321c23c29016e446bbc9cc4a.jpg

794f02d5739108ce0cd636723952d778.jpg

a5ab4c8562ab1f50615ae0a371b8e544.jpg

Posted

Here are some pictures of my truck with the 6" BDS kit with coilovers, fox 2.0 shocks and rear leaf springs. Just remember that if you deviate from BDS' suggested wheel/tire combinations you can expected to trim.65f05446321c23c29016e446bbc9cc4a.jpg794f02d5739108ce0cd636723952d778.jpga5ab4c8562ab1f50615ae0a371b8e544.jpg

The fuel hostages are 20x10 with a 35x12.50r20 tire and the back spacing is 5.75 do you think I'm going to have to trim a little if I go with the 6 in lift since it is not suggested 20x9 on bds's website but it is not that drastic of a deviation
Posted

The fuel hostages are 20x10 with a 35x12.50r20 tire and the back spacing is 5.75 do you think I'm going to have to trim a little if I go with the 6 in lift since it is not suggested 20x9 on bds's website but it is not that drastic of a deviation

What is your offset?
Posted

What is your offset?

the off set is 20 and I also have another question about bolt patterns I know it is 6x5.5 is that the same as 6 on 135 4 wheel parts list them as being interchangible (I guess) and its just making me really confused I just wanted to make sure before I order them (sorry first time lifting a truck)post-141679-0-06653600-1429930296_thumb.jpg

post-141679-0-06653600-1429930296_thumb.jpg

post-141679-0-06653600-1429930296_thumb.jpg

post-141679-0-06653600-1429930296_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 800 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I usually do as well or better than the sticker for mileage. Usually better going west than east. North then South. Wind makes a difference. I’m not usually a conspiracy theorist. But it did dawn on me I’m going by the vehicle calculation. Now that would be interesting.
    • https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/fuel-economy-stickers-don-t-tell-the-whole-story-aaa-data-reveals-why/ar-AA26ocHk?ocid=winp2fptaskbarhover&cvid=6a4122ea3dae47e5b8dfbed5d4fd3d55&cvpid=648f6b4fc2fa4eddb4c12893aeb957ed&ei=59
    • What’s missing in all this is patience and investment in the future. Buy a 170K starter home. Ten years later sell it invest in a more expensive home. Eventually you’ll have a 600K home and pay starter home payments. Buy a starter car. Maintain it well. Save the payments after it’s payed for then buy an expensive car if you desire. Buy a tumbler make your own coffee, pack your lunch. Cook your own dinner. Most importantly take care of your car.
    • People mislead themselves. Statistics are highly useful indicators.   Here's the tie-in to this thread. If an oil sample tests shows a wear indicator of 7 using cheaper ACDelco oil, and a wear indicator of 2 (lower = less wear) using a particular brand of Mobil oil, and wear has a linear relationship with engine lifespan, anyone could assume that Mobil is reducing wear by more than 50% (let's just say a 200% reduction for you red state people trying hard to do math) which leads to increasing engine life by 2x. Perhaps, in a vacuum, by itself, when dreamed by AI.   Yeah?! That's what the statistic is saying, isn't it?   No, it isn't. It didn't come out and say engine life is doubled. That's a very bad assumption, and a case of severe myopia by assuming something potentially untrue about the only data point in focus.   Average cost of a new car is 50k. You bet it is.   The median cost of a new car is more like 35k. Expensive cars are skewing the perception that "average" now means a $50k price of entry for a very average automobile. And that's not true. People who don't understand statistics twist the living heck out of them to mean all sorts of things they don't actually mean.   "Average" new car payment is $1000/month. Yep, it is. And in that number are all the $35k new car buyers who bring significant equity, and the $25k new car buyers who finance the car for a month just to get a rebate, and then pay it off. Know what isn't in that number? All the payments made by people who don't finance a car.   Picking one's own data point (don't have a car payment, never paid $50k for a new vehicle, my house cost $170k, I afforded a middle class lifestyle on $4.50/hr) is just a data point. Just like earning $25/hr in an area where the median home price is almost $1 Million is a data point. In fact, it's a lot of data points given that 80% of the US population lives in/around major cities. They're not idiots; the vast majority of them do it to make a living because that's where the big money is.   The highs have become higher, lows have become lower, and how your personal mileage varies is not truth for an entire country. At the same time you can't NOT acknowledge the data. While it doesn't paint YOUR personal picture, it certainly tints the reality that you also live in, as does your single data point.    
    • Glad you had success with it. I did as well, but about 5-6 months later it returned. Tried again, same result. This was after the dealer made several attempts and never even got it to slow down.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...