Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Lol no not tapatalk. Just on the website on mobile mode I guess it doesn't give me no options just to post only I suppose.

should be able to quote with that too, but from a phone Tapatalk is your best bet.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

 

 

 

Believe me, I've read MOST of them. The problem is there is no actual consensus. As with most things that people have purchased or own, the opinions are swayed towards what they have on their trucks. So it's hard to get a good idea of what's "best" or works the "best" for certain applications.

 

For example, and no offense intended, but you've recommended a lift kit that you own. A good friend of mine who is a mechanic, says he wouldn't buy anything except Cogito. Guess what...that's what he has on his own truck. That's not saying BDS and Cogito aren't top notch, but as other posts have mentioned within these 208 pages plus in other threads, some shops say they are overboard.

 

I don't have an opinion either way, but if I'm on the pavement 90% of the time, and a BDS 4" lift without coil overs is going to be great, then coil overs might be more than I need.

 

I'm just asking about options for lifts, without buying the highest priced/quality kit necessarily.

 

Rough Country vs. BDS. What are the differences that make one "cheap" or ride rougher than stock, in comparison to BDS for example? Would this be only specific to the kit with coil overs? Or the BDS kit without them as well?

 

I'm not a suspension expert...So at first glance, many of these kits offer the same or similar parts. Just looking for some insight.

Cognito would be another good lift but I just view them as a brand you go to when you want 10-12" kits. I know they're really popular with the HD truck guys. And trust me I understand what your saying about bias. I my opinion I found BDS to be one of the best lift kits available for my truck at the time. Plus at less than $3k for the full kit with coilovers it was a no brainer. The biggest difference between high-end kits and low end kits are going to be fitment, quality of materials and engineering. Low end kits are meant to be cheap and no thrills lift. If you've read through all the pages then you've seen the posts. Check out the SilveradoSierra.com forum, there's an old thread on there that compare several lift kits and shows the difference in build quality.

 

adult much? Dipshit

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Lol it was a joke, a bad one at that. Guess the sarcasm was lost in text.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Cognito would be another good lift but I just view them as a brand you go to when you want 10-12" kits. I know they're really popular with the HD truck guys. And trust me I understand what your saying about bias. I my opinion I found BDS to be one of the best lift kits available for my truck at the time. Plus at less than $3k for the full kit with coilovers it was a no brainer. The biggest difference between high-end kits and low end kits are going to be fitment, quality of materials and engineering. Low end kits are meant to be cheap and no thrills lift. If you've read through all the pages then you've seen the posts. Check out the SilveradoSierra.com forum, there's an old thread on there that compare several lift kits and shows the difference in build quality.

 

 

Lol it was a joke, a bad one at that. Guess the sarcasm was lost in text.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

 

Thanks for the input. I appreciate it.

 

The BDS kit with Coil-Over IFS system is now $3500 USD plus tax. So $4500+13% tax for me here in Canadian dollars. Add shipping I guess as well unless I can find it locally. The kit without coil-overs is about $1500 USD less, so it's a pretty significant price difference. I'm curious if the ride is also going to suck without the coil-over system, or if it's still going to be head and shoulders better than some of the cheaper kits?

Edited by KA0S
Posted

Cognito would be another good lift but I just view them as a brand you go to when you want 10-12" kits. I know they're really popular with the HD truck guys. And trust me I understand what your saying about bias. I my opinion I found BDS to be one of the best lift kits available for my truck at the time. Plus at less than $3k for the full kit with coilovers it was a no brainer. The biggest difference between high-end kits and low end kits are going to be fitment, quality of materials and engineering. Low end kits are meant to be cheap and no thrills lift. If you've read through all the pages then you've seen the posts. Check out the SilveradoSierra.com forum, there's an old thread on there that compare several lift kits and shows the difference in build quality.

 

 

Lol it was a joke, a bad one at that. Guess the sarcasm was lost in text.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

must've missed the "sarcasm lock" key

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

Thanks for the input. I appreciate it.

 

The BDS kit with Coil-Over IFS system is now $3500 USD plus tax. So $4500+13% tax for me here in Canadian dollars. Add shipping I guess as well unless I can find it locally. The kit without coil-overs is about $1500 USD less, so it's a pretty significant price difference. I'm curious if the ride is also going to suck without the coil-over system, or if it's still going to be head and shoulders better than some of the cheaper kits?

First, order the kit through your local Authorized BDS dealer. You should be able to get 20-30% off the retail price if you go through them. They'll simply contact BDS and BDS will approve or deny the price. Second, you can always upgrade to coilovers later. Get the kit without coilovers, save the cash and it'll ride just as good as stock.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

Thanks for the input. I appreciate it.

 

The BDS kit with Coil-Over IFS system is now $3500 USD plus tax. So $4500+13% tax for me here in Canadian dollars. Add shipping I guess as well unless I can find it locally. The kit without coil-overs is about $1500 USD less, so it's a pretty significant price difference. I'm curious if the ride is also going to suck without the coil-over system, or if it's still going to be head and shoulders better than some of the cheaper kits?

 

When I was shopping for lifts, it seemed as if more people were suggesting BDS over every other system available. I figured that had to be for good reason, so once I had decided on BDS, I spoke with my local off road shop about which kit. He said that I would be more than happy with the ride quality of the base BDS 6" lift. He then mentioned I could upgrade the rear to Fox shocks, but then when I asked about the front he said there was no upgrade unless I went with the Fox coilovers.

 

Well, me being as OCD as I am didn't want to run two different types of shocks on the front and rear, so I went with the coilover option. He tried to talk me out of it even though it was a little more money in his pocket. But, I went with them anyways. He said they were over kill for the little off roading I would be doing, and maybe he's right, but I don't regret the decision one single bit, cuz mine rides like a dream. But according to my installer, you won't regret the base kit one bit either.

 

He said every customer that they've sold the base BDS kit to has been extremely pleased with it.

Posted (edited)

Looks good!

 

Quick question for you. How are the CV angles with that lift? I was looking at their 4" system for my 2017 Sierra, and I'm curious to know what the angles are like or if their system adjusts for this.

 

There are over 200 pages to look through, so I thought I'd ask the question. In general is their a lift that would be considered "least risk" or wear? I know their systems relocate th front dif, but I've seen some random pictures of lifts in this forum, where the angle is ridiculous. I'm guessing this is not the case with BDS? What about with ReadyLift or Rough Country? I'm not concerned with hardcore off-roading clearance etc....I would never use that kind of system to its full potential, as I'm mostly on pavement or slightly off-road.

 

Thanks in advance for any input.

 

Thanks!

 

This is the first truck I lifted, well honestly the first truck I've ever owned. I've always loved modding vehicles though and the truck is no different.

 

I did a ton of research when trying to figure out how to lift my truck, I of course have magride, which severely limits my options and knocks out some of the cheaper kits. My biggest worry was destroying the ride of my truck and I believe I have 100% made the right choice.

 

I was originally looking at the Fabtech kids per recommendation of a buddy of mine, but my mechanic told me the kit was basically irreversible which ended up getting me to sway towards doing a 6" with 35's.

 

I looked at many different manufacturers, being RC, ProComp, BDS, readylift, cognito, etc. At the end of the day, the top notch kits really tend to be zone/bds, cognito, fts, and idk maybe a few others. Before BDS I was set on going pro-comp as I had heard good things, I spent the time and drove to a dealership which had a pro-comp lifted truck new and drove it to see how I liked it and I did. When I went to the local pro-comp dealer he couldn't even figure out which kit fit my truck, which was a major turn off and made me re-think my current choice. I had already gone and priced the BDS locally but they wanted $4650 to lift my truck 6" which wasn't going to happen. The gentleman who is authorized to deal in ProComp was trying to talk me into a RC 7.5 in lift. I checked his truck out, wasn't a huge fan of the angles of everything and decided against it. A good buddy of mine also wasn't a fan of a couple of their instructions as well in the install and said he wouldn't run it.

 

Long story short I ended up driving 1200 miles to my house in FL and getting my truck lifted by a BDS authorized installer in Orlando, which is probably the best decision I ever made. If I had to do it again I'd pick BDS, awesome product, awesome support, and awesome warranty.

 

In your position I'd probably go BDS personally without coil overs unless they were going to get used all the time.

Edited by jmele11968
  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

 

Ive done it. I have a Zone 6.5" lift plus I added Bilstein 5100 front and back. Fronts are set at 1.5" setting giving my total lift not counting tires 8" of lift. It drives great. compared to the Rancho shocks that came on it. Alignment was tricky but my guy dialed it in.

 

20160612_062557.jpg

20160612_082244.jpg

Are you happy with the Bilstein 5100 adjustable shocks on the front? I have a 7" lift and would love about 3/4" extra lift on the front. Want to make sure it is okay to do before I go spend the money and go through the hassle of getting them installed. Thanks!

Posted

Yes, Very. The ride is much better than the shocks these kits come with and the added lift was nice too. Ive had them set up like this for 6,000 miles now with no issue.

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes, Very. The ride is much better than the shocks these kits come with and the added lift was nice too. Ive had them set up like this for 6,000 miles now with no issue.

Cool. Thanks for the info. Your truck looks awesome. We have the same truck ('16 GMC Sierra All-Terrain X) but mine is black. I can tell yours is just a bit more level in the front. I am rather OCD when it comes how it sits. I am also real weird when it comes to noises coming from the front end caused from stress and wanted to make sure that wasn't going to happen. Thanks for the info!

Posted (edited)

who has added a 1.5" body lift to their 6" suspension lift? did it really screw up the ride?

i recently had a 6" fabtech performance kit installed with the coilovers upfront.. the coilovers arent maxed out in the front, but they said ride quality would really get bad if we maxed it out..

not really happy with the height of the front end.. its sitting 1.5-2" lower then the rear.. has a raked out look..

Edited by TT32VGT
Posted

who has added a 1.5" body lift to their 6" suspension lift? did it really screw up the ride?

i recently had a 6" fabtech performance kit installed with the coilovers upfront.. the coilovers arent maxed out in the front, but they said ride quality would really get bad if we maxed it out..

not really happy with the height of the front end.. its sitting 1.5-2" lower then the rear.. has a raked out look..

Did you do the add a leaf on the rear? If you did, removing that would bring the back down to nearly level.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

No I didn't do add a leaf. Its the standard $3500 fabtech 6" kit with coilovers infront, think its just shocks and blocks in rear. Guess I could go with a smaller block in rear..

From the cement to the center of front fender my trucks at 43", rear at 44.5".. but it looks like a bigger difference then that when you're looking at the truck

Thx for the post

  • Like 1
Posted

No I didn't do add a leaf. Its the standard $3500 fabtech 6" kit with coilovers infront, think its just shocks and blocks in rear. Guess I could go with a smaller block in rear..

From the cement to the center of front fender my trucks at 43", rear at 44.5".. but it looks like a bigger difference then that when you're looking at the truck

Thx for the post

I really don't think a body lift is the answer unless you just want more height which is cool but you nailed it with the smaller block idea. That's what I would do because it will make the ride harsher if you max the coils. The body lift would just make your problem taller lol

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 2,187 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...