Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

There was a guy on the forum a couple months ago completely freaking out and didn’t know his track width would change so drastically, he was so very upset and even posted pictures on his driveway. All in all, you get what you pay for and most of all “DO YOUR HOMEWORK!”


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I researched all the liftkits out there and the Gen 2 kit from Fabtech was the only one that did not widen the track width. Also I was limited due to the magnaride system on the Denali. No issues with the system so far just like to have heavy duty shocks & struts to handle off-road & bigger tires. The truck does ride nice! Anyone heard of AMP tires?

Posted
30 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


I almost bought the Denali but didn’t want the Magnetic ride so I ordered a loaded out SLT. To many issues with Magnetic ride breaking down and Magnetic Ride warranty voided if lifted. All in all, the dealership techs were very impressed in my CST setup and Service Manager now wants my full setup on his 18. That should say a lot emoji6.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I bought my 2015 used at a killer price. I wanted the All terrain edition but hard to find. No regrets so far. Denali is a beast with the 6.2!

  • Like 1
Posted
I bought my 2015 used at a killer price. I wanted the All terrain edition but hard to find. No regrets so far. Denali is a beast with the 6.2!


Can’t go wrong with the 6.2, Love mine as well, especially tuned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
I bought my 2015 used at a killer price. I wanted the All terrain edition but hard to find. No regrets so far. Denali is a beast with the 6.2!

Btw, what are your hwy mpg’s?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
I researched all the liftkits out there and the Gen 2 kit from Fabtech was the only one that did not widen the track width. Also I was limited due to the magnaride system on the Denali. No issues with the system so far just like to have heavy duty shocks & struts to handle off-road & bigger tires. The truck does ride nice! Anyone heard of AMP tires?

 

CST doesn’t widen track either allowing you to use your stock wheels as well as stock turning radius. CST is a custom built made in the USA, everything built in house with the highest quality material available, second to none. Their welding process is phenomenal and even use gussets to reinforce their lifts not found in other brands. I even physically compared the CST parts to ProComp, BDS, FabTech, Zone and a couple others minutes before install started and was amazed at the high quality and far superior craftsmanship compared to all the rest. You should check them out, you’ll be just as much impressed.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Can’t go wrong with the 6.2, Love mine as well, especially tuned.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Now ya talking, which tune did you use? I haven’t done mine yet. Installed a cold air intake and Gibson exhaust & I am happy with that combo. Ready to tune now or after I install the 35’s

Posted
22 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 

CST doesn’t widen track either allowing you to use your stock wheels as well as stock turning radius. CST is a custom built made in the USA, everything built in house with the highest quality material available, second to none. Their welding process is phenomenal and even use gussets to reinforce their lifts not found in other brands. I even physically compared the CST parts to ProComp, BDS, FabTech, Zone and a couple others minutes before install started and was amazed at the high quality and far superior craftsmanship compared to all the rest. You should check them out, you’ll be just as much impressed.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m not sure if CST makes a kit for the Denali?

Posted
37 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

Btw, what are your hwy mpg’s?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey mpg is 22 mpg with the factory 20inch tires. I will be adding 35’s soon on stock 20 inch Denali wheels

Posted
I’m not sure if CST makes a kit for the Denali?


Good question [emoji848] but I’m sure there is some sort of bypass just for the rods of the Magnetic ride. I’d call them end of the week


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
Now ya talking, which tune did you use? I haven’t done mine yet. Installed a cold air intake and Gibson exhaust & I am happy with that combo. Ready to tune now or after I install the 35’s


Because of my factory warranty, I wanted to stick with something I can reset before going back to the dealership for warranty work. SuperChips F5 does everything and super easy to use. https://superchips.com/shop/v/gmc/sierra-1500/2018/6-2l-8-speed/
This is for the 6.2 8speed transmission but they have one for the 6 speed too which will allow you to program the 6 speed not the 8 speed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

If you are getting 22mpg with a 6.2... you be pampering it.. 35 in. tires will take a little more throttle.
I had a 6.2 in my 2011 with 33 in. tires.. 15mpg and premium fuel were the only bads.

Hey mpg is 22 mpg with the factory 20inch tires. I will be adding 35’s soon on stock 20 inch Denali wheels


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Posted

Yeah 22mpg—jeez. I do 16mpg period with 6”, 35’s, 4.10 gears, and 93 octane tuned on 5.3L.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Posted
4 minutes ago, Hillwood said:

If you are getting 22mpg with a 6.2... you be pampering it.. 35 in. tires will take a little more throttle.
I had a 6.2 in my 2011 with 33 in. tires.. 15mpg and premium fuel were the only bads.

 


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

 

Yes I watch the fuel economy while I drive, get the 4 cylinder mode to kick in premium fuel with no ethanol isn’t cheap. I know the 35’s will cut into the fuel economy but that what I work for to enjoy my toys

Posted
11 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Because of my factory warranty, I wanted to stick with something I can reset before going back to the dealership for warranty work. SuperChips F5 does everything and super easy to use. https://superchips.com/shop/v/gmc/sierra-1500/2018/6-2l-8-speed/
This is for the 6.2 8speed transmission but they have one for the 6 speed too which will allow you to program the 6 speed not the 8 speed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I have the 8 speed trans. How is the horse power after the tune? Can you set it to compensate for the 35’s?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...