Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Does anyone currently have a stock projector laying around they can measure for me? I am curious what the measurement is from the mounting points on the stock projector to the rear (without the bulb in it.) I'm trying to get a more exact idea of just how close/far my personal setup will be from using the stock dust cap. That way I can compare this measurement to the projectors/connectors I'm going to use so I'm more prepared before I open up the housing. Attached is an example to show the measurement that I am looking for. Thanks!

 

EDIT: And now that I think about it, an overall length would be nice to have as well.

post-138385-0-74375400-1426294064.jpg

post-138385-0-74375400-1426294064.jpg

post-138385-0-74375400-1426294064.jpg

post-138385-0-74375400-1426294064.jpg

Edited by Dunc
Posted

Thanks! This should be pretty close, it might actually fit with the stock dust caps. Time to break out the credit card and start buying components :)

Posted (edited)

My layout of the OEM projector screw pattern. Note the two top holes are not centered per my measurements. I checked it twice. It's not much, but it's there. Measurements are from the centerline of the lens/bulb socket.

 

20150313_185708_zpsnbe4ftkb.jpg

Edited by spurshot
Posted

Thanks again. I'm going to check with some local dealers, maybe I'll get lucky and will find a damaged housing that I can buy to do some testing on first.

Posted

Been a while since i've cruised this thread. Has anyone found a solution to the unlock/crank light on/off/on? I hate when I crank and it flickers them on and off.

Posted

Id be happy with flickers on and on maybe haha still trying to straighten out my kit FROM TRS been woorking on it off and on all week my goes unlock on, crank off/on but the passenger side doesnt refire back on talked to them again today and they told me to check the voltage coming from the relay. Im gonna check cuz i did the whole swap ballast thing. This weekend im gonna pull the whole kit out goe through it and install it starting from the driver side so at least the bad side wont be burried behind the airbox. And im gonna try and run it off thr driver side oem input.

Posted

Basicly ill just flip the harness around leave the ballast where they are at to also check and make sure its not ballast. I dont known what else to try i grounded it to the radiator.i made a jumper ground to go to ths firewall. I tried other warning cancelers capacitors i had from old kits. It wont fire up the morimoto hid bulb on the passenger side and barely fires up an old cheap hid bulb.

Posted

You can put a time delay relay in to stop this. A 5 second delay would do it.

Posted

Or a Jatronix Voltage Sensitive Latching relay should do the trick

 

 

 

Voltage Sensitive Latching Relay - Model LR-13.5

On a lot of cars and motorcycles the headlights come on when the ignition switch is turned on. When the starter is engaged the power to the lights is removed or drops below the level needed by HID ballast. When the starter is disengaged, power is returned to the ballast(s). This quick on-off-on is acceptable for stock headlights but bad for HID bulbs and ballasts. This relay was design to prevent HID light(s) from coming on before the engine is started.

This relay works by measuring the voltage level of the headlight circuit. When the bike is off and the battery is good, the voltage at the battery should read around 12.8 volts. Once the bike is running, the voltage should be 14.2-14.8 volts. This relay is designed to 'trip' at 13.50 volts, +/- 1%. The relay activates with full force and is rated at 30 amps. Once tripped the relay will stay active down to a minimum of 5 volts, much like a standard automotive relay. It also includes a slight delay to prevent false triggers.

The relay also includes a override input that makes it possible to operate the lights with the engine off. The override only needs to be pulsed with + 11-15 volts to activate the relay.

The Voltage Sensitive Latching Relay can also be used for other accessories to prevent damage from voltage fluctuations during starting.

 

http://www.jatronx.com/products/voltage-sensitive-latching-relay/

 

DSCN1384.JPG

Posted

Ok, one problem is that it wont fire up the morimoto hid on the problem side at all but will a cheaper hid bulb. Bulb and ballast work fine on other side. Now its stange its the same problem i had with the cheaper kits and harness. But maybe the relay is bad and not getting voltage on thr passenger side? Also that voltage sensitivity relay, say it stops from the on off on. But now my truck when i unlock it turns on the lights, i know u can shut off that feature but would it be possible to leave that on and use this. I do like that my truck lights up everything when i approach it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...