Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey guys wanting to install a set of LED strips but don't want to tap into the cargo light for power since I want to use them without getting into the cab or having the aux power on. Read on some other forums that there is a hot wire running to the trailer harness.

 

Anyone tap into this for their lights? If so, did you have to hook up any wires/fuses in the fuse box?

Posted

I just started doing that ^^^ Tonight. Found the red/white wire going to the 7 pin trailer plug to be live. Spliced into it with an in line fuse and went to a toggle switch in the box and am also wiring in a door pin switch for the tailgate. Will be finishing up tomorrow and hopefully everything works as planned.

Posted

I wired my 4 LED under rail bed lights through the live 12V in the 7 prong trailer harness, and added a 5 amp inline blade fuse. I used a GM door jamb pin switch in the tailgate jamb. Others have used a mercury switch inside the tailgate.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

For those that have installed a second OEM set of bed lights, are you willing to part with the plug end that you are not using?

Posted

For those that have installed a second OEM set of bed lights, are you willing to part with the plug end that you are not using?

 

I assume that you are referring to the one that plugs into the box by the spare tire, not the ones that connect into the lights themselves? I ordered a second set from the dealership and just completed adding one of them to the inside of my toolbox (works very well I might add) and i don't know that I have a reason to keep the other end and could possibly part with it

 

 

Picture of the added light for those who may want to know what it looks like

photo 8.1

photo 8.2

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I've seen posts where people have gotten this for around $50 shipped. Are those deals still around?

 

Just brought home a 2015 - 2500 Silverado and the dealer told me to do this myself and it would be easy as the holes for the installation are already there.

 

Is that true?

Posted

I've seen posts where people have gotten this for around $50 shipped. Are those deals still around?

 

Just brought home a 2015 - 2500 Silverado and the dealer told me to do this myself and it would be easy as the holes for the installation are already there.

 

Is that true?

Yes. Installation is very easy. You will have to search around for a deal. Some ppl found them for very cheap on eBay/Amazon. All about how much you are willing to look for it.

 

As I said, install is very easy. You will take off the tail lights to have access to wear you will run the wires and then plug in under the bed behind spare wheel. Install should only take about 1-1.5 hours.

Posted

Yes. Installation is very easy. You will have to search around for a deal. Some ppl found them for very cheap on eBay/Amazon. All about how much you are willing to look for it.

 

As I said, install is very easy. You will take off the tail lights to have access to wear you will run the wires and then plug in under the bed behind spare wheel. Install should only take about 1-1.5 hours.

 

Well the dealer told me if I had ordered it and had the factory install it, it would have only cost me $60. I was hoping to get it at that price or less.

Posted

Alright, I've installed hundreds of these on the trucks (yay PDI's). I'm not going to read through all 13 pages to see if this has been solved so here it is.

 

The kit comes with the harness, two lights, the push-square deals and the screws. Should take about 20-30 minutes to do this.

 

1. - First lower your gate and take the tail-lights off by loosening the two screws on each one and pull them out (may take a little effort due to retaining clips)

 

2. - Next go under your bed, under the truck. Look at your spare tire. LOOK AT IT. Now look above it, to the driver side of the truck, about mid-way down the spare tire (no need to remove it), you should see a wiring BUS system, likely with quite a few things plugged into it. Look for a white dummy plug on the very driver-side of the BUS system. Remove this dummy-plug, this is where your harness will connect to.

 

3. - Goto the harness. Pick it up. Observe it, and its plastic...ey? goodness. It will be labeled DRIVER and PASSENGER side on the ends. Make sure you get this right. Go under the truck again, and plug this into the spot that you removed the dummy-plug from.

 

4. - Now take the wiring, and run the DRIVER side, as high as possible against the bottom of the bed, through all the little holes and areas to keep it held up, and run it up to a little hole that is located below the driver side tail-light. Fish this wire out of the hole and then do the PASSENGER side, the same way, above the spare tire, the crank bar, all of it, to the hole, and fish it out.

 

5. - Alright, you are done down there until the end. Now go up top and take the wire (either side) that you fished up through the tail-light hole, and now (small hands help) fish it even higher through the side of the top of the bed. This can be hard, but do-able. Do this for both sides.

 

6. - You will see some square open holes on the bed side near the side rail right below it, about a foot or two in from the back. Push the metal tabs into those two squares on each side.

 

7. - Get the LED light and place it up to the squares, facing so they would shine down preferably. Now -start- the screws through the LED light and begin screwing them in. About 4 turns in, take the wire on the driver side only, and run it ABOVE the light, BEFORE you tighten it down all the way. Finish tightening. The PASSENGER side does not have this issue.

 

8. - Once done with mounting and plugging in the LED lights, test them with the bed light switch on the dash. Works? yay +1 and get a beer. Now take the push-tabs that came on the harness and find the closest spot they push into, and do this, especially in the tail-light area.

 

9. - Reinstall tail-lights.

  • Like 1
Posted

I've seen posts where people have gotten this for around $50 shipped. Are those deals still around?

 

Just brought home a 2015 - 2500 Silverado and the dealer told me to do this myself and it would be easy as the holes for the installation are already there.

 

Is that true?

 

 

Yup. Here's one:

 

 

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cargo-lamp-kit-for-a-GMC-Chevrolet-Brand-new-in-box-Part-20979073-/251693433454?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a9a19026e&vxp=mtr#ht_22wt_1362

Posted

How is that part number different from GM part# 23145347?

I think there are slight color variations.

Posted

If there are variations between the part numbers, it shouldn't be an issue if one is running only the rear pair. If you want 4 total lights, then I would purchase two kits with the same part number. The kits appear identical when it comes to what hardware and harness are included and the external appearance of the light assemblies.

Posted

For those of you who have installed a 2nd set, how did you attach them? Did you drill into the bed or did you use something like 3M VHB tape? Thanks!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...