Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Clo004 Enthusiast

Clo004

Posted
Posted

6yqu3ede.jpg

2.25" ready lift level, 295/55 nitto trails

Do you have any rub? I have been looking at that exact set up for my truck.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Sheaww200571 New Member

Sheaww200571

Posted
Posted

Do you have any rub? I have been looking at that exact set up for my truck.

Yes, it rubs the sway bar on both sides at full lock, not terribly bad but deff enough to hear it. And I've only got about a 1/4" clearance at full lock between the tire and uca. After searching on here and other places for months I had myself talked into doing a 305/55/20 because everyone was saying they regret getting the 295 because it was way too small but u just backed out last minute and decided to play it safe. The sway bar thing doesn't bother me, that's to be expected but I just didn't want to be pulling my inner fenders out and stuff. Overall I love the look and couldn't be happier with the way it turned out.

Jasb Enthusiast

Jasb

Posted
Posted

IMG_0675_zps992e78b9.jpg

 

2 inch level

275/70/18 BFG ATs

Front and rear ranch hand replacements

  • Like 3
GTVETTE Enthusiast

GTVETTE

Posted
Posted

2.5 inch RC level upfront and stock block in the rear, 305/55/20 Nitto Trail Grapplers, XD Spy wheels -12 offset

DSC08946

DSC08934

  • Like 2
FH212 Enthusiast

FH212

Posted
Posted

 

2.5 inch RC level upfront and stock block in the rear, 305/55/20 Nitto Trail Grapplers, XD Spy wheels -12 offset

 

 

GTVETTE, by leaving the stock block did that make it completely level? Not higher in the rear or front? It looks like it level. I like the look, any rubbing?

MR. DRAG SLEDDER Enthusiast

MR. DRAG SLEDDER

Posted
Posted

Yes, it rubs the sway bar on both sides at full lock, not terribly bad but deff enough to hear it. And I've only got about a 1/4" clearance at full lock between the tire and uca. After searching on here and other places for months I had myself talked into doing a 305/55/20 because everyone was saying they regret getting the 295 because it was way too small but u just backed out last minute and decided to play it safe. The sway bar thing doesn't bother me, that's to be expected but I just didn't want to be pulling my inner fenders out and stuff. Overall I love the look and couldn't be happier with the way it turned out

Thank you for being truthful with your info.! That helps allot of us here making decisions!

Sheaww200571 New Member

Sheaww200571

Posted
Posted

Thank you for being truthful with your info.! That helps allot of us here making decisions!

No problem brother, I know how you feel. I was getting frustrated in my searching because half the "info" I found says one thing and the other half would say the completely opposite lol. I know you have to be careful because every tire wheel and level are going to be marginally different even at the same specs as another company, but I found a handful of trucks that were running the EXACT same set up as I got down to the very last detail! And said absolutely NO RUB WHATSOEVER! I don't know man..maybe I just got a defective set of struts or something? :D

MR. DRAG SLEDDER Enthusiast

MR. DRAG SLEDDER

Posted
Posted (edited)

No problem brother, I know how you feel. I was getting frustrated in my searching because half the "info" I found says one thing and the other half would say the completely opposite lol. I know you have to be careful because every tire wheel and level are going to be marginally different even at the same specs as another company, but I found a handful of trucks that were running the EXACT same set up as I got down to the very last detail! And said absolutely NO RUB WHATSOEVER! I don't know man..maybe I just got a defective set of struts or something? :D

Exactly..... and again Thanks!!! From what I am seeing is with 2.5" lift, stock 20" Rims 275/65R20's or 275/60R20's seem to work with no rubbing issues.

Edited by MR. DRAG SLEDDER
B33tl3 Enthusiast

B33tl3

Posted
Posted

My stock height z-71 has 275/60R20 Nitto Terra Grapplers on stock 20" wheels and I have not had any rubbing. I have a finger width clearance at full turn.

They had one at the dealer with the same setup so I tested it before I got the new tires. I got my tires at Discount Tire and they gave me credit ($100 each) for the factory tires.

GTVETTE Enthusiast

GTVETTE

Posted
Posted

 

GTVETTE, by leaving the stock block did that make it completely level? Not higher in the rear or front? It looks like it level. I like the look, any rubbing?

Yes the front and back fenders are both at 40in, but I might install the rear 2in block when I get the chance. It does rub in reverse against the inner corner of the mud flap but Im thinking if I remove them the rubbing might stop.

FH212 Enthusiast

FH212

Posted
Posted

Yes the front and back fenders are both at 40in, but I might install the rear 2in block when I get the chance. It does rub in reverse against the inner corner of the mud flap but Im thinking if I remove them the rubbing might stop.

 

Great! now I know to leave the block out. Thanks!

Bc12point Enthusiast

Bc12point

Posted
Posted

I have seen a few trucks here that combine a RC 2" lift with a Zone 1.5" body lift. Are there any concerns I should look for if I go with this combination? What is the best tire size, offset, etc.

TexasDevilDog Enthusiast

TexasDevilDog

Posted
Posted

pulled the rear blocks off my leaf springs to level my denali. looks great and cost nothing. brought the front within 1 inch of the rear and didn't change ride at all.

picture?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 251 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • chris21
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By chris21 · Posted

      With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...