Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

That is 2". I need the 1" one. Thanks for the link..

... You remove the stock block (1" or 1.25") and add this 2" thus gaining you apx 1" in the back...

Posted

... You remove the stock block (1" or 1.25") and add this 2" thus gaining you apx 1" in the back...

Got ya.. Thanks

Posted

... You remove the stock block (1" or 1.25") and add this 2" thus gaining you apx 1" in the back...

 

Got ya.. Thanks

 

You have to be careful with this; I would message the company before purchasing. Some companies will advertise the actual lift height and some will advertise the block height.

 

From the picture those look like 3" blocks giving you 2" lift; but that may also just be their generic picture.

You should be able to pick up block lifts at your local auto parts store also.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

You have to be careful with this; I would message the company before purchasing. Some companies will advertise the actual lift height and some will advertise the block height.

 

From the picture those look like 3" blocks giving you 2" lift; but that may also just be their generic picture.

You should be able to pick up block lifts at your local auto parts store also.

I emailed them last night about the thickness of the block, still waiting for them to reply. Looks like I'm gonna go with the Ready lift since they have good reviews on them.. Edited by block8head
Posted

You can't go wrong with ReadyLift, atleast you know they've been tried and tested. I may also add those blocks to my RC 2".

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

You have to be careful with this; I would message the company before purchasing. Some companies will advertise the actual lift height and some will advertise the block height.

 

From the picture those look like 3" blocks giving you 2" lift; but that may also just be their generic picture.

You should be able to pick up block lifts at your local auto parts store also.

Received the blocks today along with my 2" front level (lower strut mount made from billet alum). The new blocks are indeed 2" which will give me the stance I am looking for (some rake and not completely level). On my 2005 I had the RC kit with blocks and the ones I received today look/feel exactly the same and for 1/3 the price. For under $100 I will bring the front up 2" and the back up 1" total. Just thought I would throw this out there to help someone else.

post-75321-0-61732700-1397679843_thumb.jpg

post-75321-0-61732700-1397679843_thumb.jpg

post-75321-0-61732700-1397679843_thumb.jpg

post-75321-0-61732700-1397679843_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Stupid question, I got my RC 2 inch level kit in the mail yesterday, Instructions say one of the first steps is to remove the front skid plate and unplug 3 wire harnesses for the electric steering. Couldn't I make it easier and just skip those steps and disconnect the battery instead?

Posted (edited)

My dealer told me to avoid the Rough Country leveling kits as they are made off-shore and are of poor quality. I'm leaning towards the Readylift 2.25 with 3" rear block and shock extension for 2.5x the price......is it worth it ?

Edited by J.G.
Posted

IMO, they're all the same when it comes to leveling kits. I mean, how much R&D do you need on a metal puck, really? I have the Pro-Comp 1.5" spacer (actually .80") that mounts on the top of the strut. I bought it from Four Wheel Parts for $150 because it was the only place that had anything in stock and I needed it that day. I just ordered a 1" bottom strut mount spacer off of eBay for $25 and I'm pretty sure it's the same material. If I had to do it over, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a no name spacer kit for half the cost. A lot of what you're paying for is the name on the box.

 

Now, as someone else earlier in this thread pointed out, things change when you go above just spacer leveling kits and start getting into actual lift kits. These actually do have some R&D built into them to measure angles and where to notch frame and whatnot. If I was going to go that route, then I'd put a little more stock into a trusted name.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Stupid question, I got my RC 2 inch level kit in the mail yesterday, Instructions say one of the first steps is to remove the front skid plate and unplug 3 wire harnesses for the electric steering. Couldn't I make it easier and just skip those steps and disconnect the battery instead?

It's unnecessary for the 2" level - no need to do either. Loosen the top strut nuts is really the only extra step I found was needed, it can be installed slightly easier than they describe.

Edited by tanner709
Posted

Guys that have done a 2-2.5" front leveling kit, what is the max tire you can add onto the stock 20" ALL Terrain Wheel gray painted wheels without it rubbing at any place?

 

The dealer I am dealing with is going to upgrade the tires for me but I dont want the regular stock size tires.

 

Thanks guys!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Couple plausibilities.   - Bent pushrod   - Bad injector   - Roller lifter failed and has been eating the cam lobe(s).     - Broken valve spring   All are options.  Most common that I can recall would be the valve spring (hard to see the break on it as well), the cam/lifter and the injector.  
    • I only have a few of the ACDelco blue remaining. One or two of the (old, old) ACDelco Professional boxes, and a couple of the newer style GM boxes with the simulcast in Chinese along with English. FWIW they've all been pretty good, regardless of where they are made, and in 20 years I've never had a problem with an e-core filter.   Now I have a couple of the "A" series in my home inventory. They come in a plain white box with the GM hologram sticker and model information. Have not installed one yet, want to use up my oldest inventory first.
    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...