Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I added .5" up front so now it sits 39.5 with 2.5 up front and 40 in the back stock.

attachicon.gifimage.jpgattachicon.gifimage.jpgattachicon.gifimage.jpg

That sits perfect. Awesome truck. So 2.5" up front and stock in back equals pretty much level. Great info!

Posted

 

I added .5" up front so now it sits 39.5 with 2.5 up front and 40 in the back stock.image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg

 

 

That sits perfect. Awesome truck. So 2.5" up front and stock in back equals pretty much level. Great info!

 

Not for my LTZ with the 6.5 bed. I have +2.5" up front and +1" in the rear . I'm sitting 39.5 in the front and 40 in the rear. Crazy how mine sits different. ada3utuh.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

Not for my LTZ with the 6.5 bed. I have +2.5" up front and +1" in the rear . I'm sitting 39.5 in the front and 40 in the rear. Crazy how mine sits different. ada3utuh.jpg

Yep i figured out they all sit a little different. I tjought i only needed a 2" but i then figured i was wrong
  • Like 1
Posted

Not for my LTZ with the 6.5 bed. I have +2.5" up front and +1" in the rear . I'm sitting 39.5 in the front and 40 in the rear. Crazy how mine sits different. ada3utuh.jpg

Truck looks great.

 

The crew cabs seem to look more natural when level, maybe because of the length or the fact they are slightly more level to begin with.

Posted

I've read through pretty much this whole thread and I have a few questions.

 

1. Does installing a front leveling kit void the factory warranty?

2. On average what are you noticing in the difference in MPG after the level with factory tires or one size up.

3. What brand would you recommend?

Posted (edited)

9zy5uo.jpg

I decieded to only install the lower strut spacers with my RC 2.5" lift, it looks much better.

Edited by Jon Rogers
Posted (edited)
I've read through pretty much this whole thread and I have a few questions.

1. Does installing a front leveling kit void the factory warranty?

2. On average what are you noticing in the difference in MPG after the level with factory tires or one size up.

3. What brand would you recommend?

 

If you look back a few pages in this thread, these exact questions have been answered.

 

Sent via Samsung Note II

 

Edited by surebuttercringe
Posted

If you look back a few pages in this thread, these exact questions have been answered.

 

Sent via Samsung Note II

I must have browsed past it, I've been though all 18 pages and didn't see any specific #'s.

 

 

I just measured to see where my stock ride height was. It was 35 3/4" up front and just a hair under 39 1/2" in the rear, which seems a bit low in the front. My 2007 was 37" stock ride height in the front.

Posted (edited)

I've read through pretty much this whole thread and I have a few questions.

 

1. Does installing a front leveling kit void the factory warranty?

2. On average what are you noticing in the difference in MPG after the level with factory tires or one size up.

3. What brand would you recommend?

When you say factory warranty, you have to realize that a level affects suspension only. Therefore the only warranty that can be voided (if possible) is suspension components - and front components at that. It is really dealer dependant because some dealers will be sticky and others won't care to put up the fight. My dealer told me there would be no issues with a level, or lift, installed by a reputable garage (which they work with). $150 for the level and $100 labour(I helped the mechanic).

 

With factory tire size, and a 2.5" rough country level, I've seen about 1L/100k increase which is about 1.35 mpg decrease.

 

I'd recommend rough country for price, warranty, and quality. There are many other good brands out there which I cannot speak to.

Edited by tanner709
Posted

When you say factory warranty, you have to realize that a level affects suspension only. Therefore the only warranty that can be voided (if possible) is suspension components - and front components at that. It is really dealer dependant because some dealers will be sticky and others won't care to put up the fight. My dealer told me there would be no issues with a level, or lift, installed by a reputable garage (which they work with). $150 for the level and $100 labour(I helped the mechanic).

 

With factory tire size, and a 2.5" rough country level, I've seen about 1L/100k increase which is about 1.35 mpg decrease.

 

I'd recommend rough country for price, warranty, and quality. There are many other good brands out there which I cannot speak to.

What kit did you buy that was $150. One I saw was $68

Posted

What kit did you buy that was $150. One I saw was $68

 

The Rough Country kit with the front spacers and rear blocks is $149. I would think the one for $68 would be front spacers only.

Posted

The 2" is $65 and the 2.5" which includes the 2" blocks/hardware + front strut tophat, rear blocks and u bolts is $150.

 

You could round up 4 nuts and 4 bolts for $10 and level the truck if you wanted.

Posted

A little off topic, but can anyone help me to find the 1" rear block . I have 2" RC level front and rear stock ,but it looks like the front is little higher than the back. Just want to raise the back up a bit..

I did search, but most of them came as a kit..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,501 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...