Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2 1/2 in RC level on stock 18s and stock tires.

Posted

I am new to the forum and I'm wondering if you guys can help me I also bout the summit leveling kit 2.5" I'm wondering you there is any pitures of the kit because I bought it from a friend who was gonna put it on his 2011 but mine is a 2015 and I didn't know if they would fit the same thanks for the help

Posted

Finally finished all the mods, here is some info for those looking for it.

 

- 2inch rough country leveling kit

- 305/55/20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2

- 20 inch Fuel Maverick Wheels with a 20mm Offset

 

And before any one asks, No rubbing on the fender lining and suspension at full lock. I also didn't trim a thing.

 

 

 

 

post-142584-0-72476600-1430937047_thumb.jpg

post-142584-0-72476600-1430937047_thumb.jpg

post-142584-0-72476600-1430937047_thumb.jpg

post-142584-0-72476600-1430937047_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Finally finished all the mods, here is some info for those looking for it.

 

- 2inch rough country leveling kit

 

- 305/55/20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2

- 20 inch Fuel Maverick Wheels with a 20mm Offset

 

 

 

And before any one asks, No rubbing on the fender lining and suspension at full lock. I also didn't trim a thing.

 

 

 

 

Not about the leveling kit but how do you like the anzo lights? I just installed some and can't seem to adjust the low beams up high enough. Any tips?

Posted

Not about the leveling kit but how do you like the anzo lights? I just installed some and can't seem to adjust the low beams up high enough. Any tips?

I emailed Anzo about this as well, I installed them on Monday Night and noticed the driver side is really low. I'm hoping there is a way to adjust them.

Posted

Hmm kinda weirded I installed my Monday night ad well. Did you leave the bulbs that came with them or did you install some differen. I went with leds, thought it might have been the leds.

Posted

Hmm kinda weirded I installed my Monday night ad well. Did you leave the bulbs that came with them or did you install some differen. I went with leds, thought it might have been the leds.

I kept whatever bulb was in the light. I didn't really care because I plan to pick up a TRS Morimoto HID kit later on.

Posted

To adjust the Anzo headlights. You have to completely take them out and there is a screw on the back of the assembly that will raise the low beam up or down.

Posted

Went with the Rough Country 3" leveling kit. My 2015 GMC Sierra had the aluminum A-arms and when ordering kit they need to know that information. Kit was $72. shipped from Rough Country. Midas installed the kit for $150 which included the front end alignment.

 

Before measurements were front 36 3/4 inches front and 39 1/4 inches rear. so front was down 2 1/2 inches

After level kit front was 38 1/2 inches for a total front increase of 1 3/4 inches of lift. Almost perfectly level !! front is 3/4 of an inch lower but not noticeable at all.

 

post-140070-0-08465800-1430953452_thumb.jpg

 

post-140070-0-65460300-1430953465_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-08465800-1430953452_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-65460300-1430953465_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-08465800-1430953452_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-65460300-1430953465_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-08465800-1430953452_thumb.jpg

post-140070-0-65460300-1430953465_thumb.jpg

Posted

To adjust the Anzo headlights. You have to completely take them out and there is a screw on the back of the assembly that will raise the low beam up or down.

There's a screw on top where the normal adjustments are made that moves them up UT I have it maxed out. Is there another one?

Posted

I am new to the forum and I'm wondering if you guys can help me I also bout the summit leveling kit 2.5" I'm wondering you there is any pitures of the kit because I bought it from a friend who was gonna put it on his 2011 but mine is a 2015 and I didn't know if they would fit the same thanks for the help

I have that kit on mine .. Love it no problems so far with 4000 miles on it

post-140622-0-78488800-1430966116_thumb.jpg

post-140622-0-78488800-1430966116_thumb.jpg

post-140622-0-78488800-1430966116_thumb.jpg

post-140622-0-78488800-1430966116_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I've been thinking more and more about leveling my truck, but I know nothing about it. anything I need to be weary of? is gas mileage really affected? Yes I know we don't buy trucks for gas, but I drive 65 miles a day and have a life time avg of over 20 so that made the purchase of the truck worth it. local truck shop in town quoted me 330 installed aligned etc for a fabtech level kit. I just wanted to hear some opinions from the pros what to look for and don't etc.

Posted (edited)

I've been thinking more and more about leveling my truck, but I know nothing about it. anything I need to be weary of? is gas mileage really affected? Yes I know we don't buy trucks for gas, but I drive 65 miles a day and have a life time avg of over 20 so that made the purchase of the truck worth it. local truck shop in town quoted me 330 installed aligned etc for a fabtech level kit. I just wanted to hear some opinions from the pros what to look for and don't etc.

 

Gas mileage will be fine as long as it's a 2-2.5" level. Mine has remained pretty much the same after leveling 1.8" and removing the front air dam and running boards. That said my uphill gas mileage seems to tank quicker. I've since put an airaid MIT on it though so maybe it mitigates the effects if i keep my foot out of it.

 

http://www.bilsteinus.com/fileadmin/user_upload/user_upload_us/pdfs/Bil_LevShks_WebArticle.pdf

 

There are essentially two ways of leveling these trucks and depending on what you do with yours may make one more viable than the other. The most common method is spacer kits. Of the spacer kits the most common is the strut extension kits. These kits go on top of the strut mount and below the strut where the shock connects to the lower control arm. They're cheap and don't cost much to install. The downside is that it will likely stiffen your ride, though most for the 14+ say it doesn't. My brothers 2012 Chevy however is rough as hell that might be attributed to his OEM twin tube shocks though. My cousin's 2009 sierra with ranchos and a rough country 2.5" kit rides fine to me. You will also limit the up travel of your suspension and if your doing some hard trailing or anything taking use of wheel travel when the suspension collapses and shock compresses that lower spacer is going to push the lower shock mount into the body putting stress on it.

 

The other type of spacer is a spring-preload spacer. Of which i have never seen for the 14+ models but it would be more ideal than a strut extension spacer IMO. A quote from bilstein on the matter.

"A Spring Preload Spacer installs between the upper spring perch and the top of the coil spring. The spacer applies more preload to the spring, raising the static spring rate, which increases the ride height of the vehicle. This type of spacer kit has two major shortcomings: loss of rebound damping control, and loss of free down-travel or “droop”

 

The other method of leveling/lifting is new struts and coilovers. The latter being very expensive and usually accommodates new UCAs for the bigger shock body and spring so that's another 500$ at the least tacked on. But these are adjustable from stock-3" of lift. They're the best option you can get without upgrading the suspension as a whole. They offer the best dampening, most wheel travel, and FWIW the most height adjustment. Coilovers usually range anywhere from 600$ on the low end for a pair to 1500$ for something like fox, icon, or King. Rear shocks will run you 100$ or so a piece and then the install and likely new UCAs.

 

The struts on the other hand are a mid-range expense. Rancho, Pro-comp, and Bilstein all produce leveling struts. These struts raise the front end of the vehicle by raising the spring perch higher, while maintaining full amount of wheel travel and likely the best ride for the money. Now some will say the 5100s on max setting ride harsh, however that has not been my experience. The ride is more stiff and controlled but large bumps, whoops, and railroad tracks the truck glides over. Body roll and bed sway have been significantly reduced, and i no longer am bouncing in the cab like i was with my stock ranchos. Estimated expense for this method is probably in the 800$ range installed. It will run you 400ish for two struts and rear shocks, and probably around 350-400$ for an install. You can do it yourself but you need a spring compressor because the 5100s use the factory spring. Now the Rancho quicklifts come with their own spring. The 7000mt and pro-comps both use the factory i think. But you will need an alignment either way.

 

"The 5100 Series Leveling Shock will allow for 1-2” more up-travel than a strut extension. As for the droop or down-travel, the extended length of the shock also allows for more overall travel. The goal is to maximize wheel travel without inducing any ball joint or driveline bind. What we have found in most cases is that the OEM manufacturers have designed a coilover unit using a short travel shock with long shock body. What this means is we can increase the extended length of the shock without effecting the collapsed length. With the 5100 Series Leveling Shock is installed, you will gain more wheel travel while maintaining the factory compression stops.

 

The lift on the 5100 Series leveling shocks is achieved by increasing the preload on the factory coil. By adding more preload, the shock is designed with more rebound damping as compared to the O.E. or standard aftermarket replacement shock. Considering that Bilstein is the world leader in monotube gas pressure shocks absorbers, we are in the unique position to offer a leveling shock with the perfect damping rates, optimizing your ride and handling characteristics. The result is a much smoother and better controlled ride than the factory coilover set up can deliver."

 

Now the question really is what do you plan on doing with your truck? I went with shocks for peace of mind that i would have full suspension travel. Spacer kits are fine, though they might have some disadvantage plenty and i mean plenty of people run them for 200,000 miles with little to no issues. If i was to go with a spacer kit it'd likely be a coil spacer.

 

If i'm off on any of this guys feel free to chime in and correct me.

 

167DC197-A547-4459-A158-8FD70248D4FC_zps

96B5AE9E-A856-45B9-90C4-15159D4607AF_zps

6E4E1FDB-5C13-4953-9AED-5728CA71599B_zps

59C12595-B3D6-4667-958D-E9B6A229C07E_zps

Edited by 5RWill
  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I can't say I have ever heard of someone getting that type of mileage out of a set of tires even though they rotated on a regular basis but without a doubt if the front end gets wear and those tires are no longer able to track straight it scrubs them off, and driving style and road surface make a huge difference as well.    However that is not what prompted me to comment as it was the new tire theme of sitting in storage waiting to be used scenario. I am sure some tires can last for quite a while in storage if its not too warm and out of the sunlight but unfortunately some tires the way they their rubber compound is formulated they can age and dry out even in a reasonably decent storage location. My brother ran into this maybe three years ago when he was looking at the tires that were on his dually truck and a combination of wear on the rear ones and noticing that the front tires had some cracks around the sidewall of the tire not far from the bead but he had replaced only the front ones not long ago with 2 of the remaining 6 he had left from the initial two sets of takeoffs he had all bought at the same time .... 10 years ago ! ( the years fly by, a truck that only gets used a bit to haul a camper during the summer and sits in a shed for a large part of the year ). That second set of 6 tires, two he had put on the front prior like I said and they had very little wear but those cracks were now present. So we go into the shed where the other 4 tires had been stored all this time and every one of them had the same cracks in the sidewalls and so in the end it amounted to throwing away 6 brand new but 10 year old takeoff tires into the dump that he got a deal on at a tire shop because they aged out. They were a Ford factory equipment BFG tire and those tires did not age well compared to some tires I've seen far older then that and did not show that type of aging. True, they always say up here anyway that 7 years is sort of a limit for age by rights, we don't have the intense prolonged heat that many of you have down in the states that just cook tires and depends on where the vehicle sits when not in use. GB, another words maybe had you bought a set of tires to store it would have been fine as long as you used them up fast enough but there are no guarantees when it comes to rubber, tires or of that other type stored in some guys wallets 😆
    • 2020 2500 HD...I had some trouble getting the key into the ignition switch but went in fine after applying some extra effort. Since then, the door chimes when open when the key is out of the ignition. Also, when I lock the doors with the switch on the arm rest, the driver door locks but then unlocks. (I can lock everything fine with the fob) The message on the little screen displays the "Engine Hours"...kinda weird.   I'm guessing something happened to the ignition switch and it thinks the key is still in there. I unplugged the batteries for 20 minutes, no change. There are a number of videos on YouTube but nothing I can find that address this specific issue. Ideas appreciated, thank you.
    • Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
    • Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer.   The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight.   Most noticeable at slow speeds.    Any insight is appreciated. 
    • We try to make cruise the coast. It’s where our favorite casino is. I only want to spectate. Never took a car. Always had one to take. I belonged to a club once. Even when I used to drag raced. It was during test and tune. Probably because I’m not a night owl, party person. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...