Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

this may have been covered before but i cant find it in the search.

 

i have a 2015 and im going to do a 2 or 2.5'' level and want to put on bf goodrich all-terrain t/a ko2 tires. i know 285/65-18 will fit no problem but was wondering if 305/65-18 will fit. i dont mind working with the fender liner to make it work. but will it run the upper control arm or anything else?

 

thanks

 

This was one tire I looked at too and from my memory (not to be trusted :lol: ) that will work. But as of right now, the KO2 does not come in that size. It's the one I want to hold out for though. Some websites have that size listed, but I emailed BFG and they confirmed that it is not out yet. When I was researching I was looking at people running that size in the original ko. Some have run the 305/60/18 with no level with no problems and the 305/65 is around .6" taller, so with a level it all depends on offset.

Posted

thats kind of disappointing. i was hope to get a set of those tires in the next 2 or 3 months.

 

thanks for the info

Posted (edited)

Whats the average/decent price for kits & installation?

 

A 1.5" level and window tinting will be the first mods I make coming up this summer/fall

 

Congrats on the new ride! Instead of using an RC leveling kit I installed the Bilstein 5100's on the front end of my '14 Silverado 1500. These allow you to choose how much lift you want on the front end. I have mine at the highest setting which brought it up to just under level, front = 38 1/4" with the stock rear at 39". They cost a touch more, $110ish/ea but after some research I found that these don't limit your suspension travel like some of the other leveling kits. Since I'm an avid hunter and outdoorsman that's the last thing I needed. I installed them myself which wasn't too bad, just had to rent a shock compressor, it took probably 3 hours. They are also coming out with the 6112 which is basically a beefed up version of the 5100. I would definitely give them some thought if you're going to be taking your truck off road a lot. Congrats again man!

Edited by PowderRiver Let'rBuck
Posted (edited)

Whats the average/decent price for kits & installation?

 

A 1.5" level and window tinting will be the first mods I make coming up this summer/fall

 

I went with the "Ready Lift 2.25" level kit. I have a 2014 Z71 pretty much like yours, and my truck was raised exactly 2.25" in the front. No change to the rear blocks. The end result is that the truck now sits 1" higher in the rear, but to my eye, it's pretty much level.

 

The "Ready Lift" costs substantially more than kits from RC, which apparently do the job fine, but in my case, my dealer sold and installed the kit, so I thought it was worthwhile to have had the "Dealer" handle the install, in case any issues come up later on. I'm from Canada, so prices are sort of ridiculous up here, but my cost for the level kit "All In" including the kit, install, taxes and front end alignment ended up around $600. Not all that bad, when you consider the level kit from the dealer was about $225. I'm not one of those "do-it-your selfers".......I'd rather pay and be sure it was done properly.

 

Here's a few shots of the truck......the first pic almost looks like the nose sits a little high......not the case, the truck looks pretty much level to me. The second pick is taken at the same location, before I had it levelled

 

Rev

post-133793-0-26283200-1432841159_thumb.jpg

post-133793-0-74783300-1432841315_thumb.jpg

post-133793-0-26283200-1432841159_thumb.jpg

post-133793-0-74783300-1432841315_thumb.jpg

post-133793-0-26283200-1432841159_thumb.jpg

post-133793-0-74783300-1432841315_thumb.jpg

post-133793-0-26283200-1432841159_thumb.jpg

post-133793-0-74783300-1432841315_thumb.jpg

Edited by revitupfaster
Posted

Ok just got all done with the leveling kit. First picture is of the day I picked it up.

 

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

Second and third picture is of it with just the front RC spacers installed.

 

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

Next to my dads 2015 high country

 

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

Measurements were:

39 front wheel well

38 rear wheel well

 

18 front of cab

17.25 back of cab

 

 

Here it is with the 2 in blocks in the back

 

attachicon.gifimage.jpg

39 front wheel well

38.75 rear wheel well

 

18 front cab

18 rear cab

Are those stock tires?
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the replies. It shouldn't been too long here before I have enough to get some work done.

 

I wish it would stop raining so I could get out n give the truck a wash and snap some pics. Soon though, weekend looks promising for some sun shine.

 

Im definitely not a DIY guy, I will pay someone to do it

Edited by quise2024
Posted

Silverado cabs level out with the fenders. Sierras don't. Mine needs to be 1.5 higher in the rear for the cab to be level.

Posted

this may have been covered before but i cant find it in the search.

 

i have a 2015 and im going to do a 2 or 2.5'' level and want to put on bf goodrich all-terrain t/a ko2 tires. i know 285/65-18 will fit no problem but was wondering if 305/65-18 will fit. i dont mind working with the fender liner to make it work. but will it run the upper control arm or anything else?

 

thanks

I have essentially the same tire size, but mine are 305/45r22 and they rubbed on the sway bar with rancho quicklifts that give about 2.25" lift. Smaller rims like 20's and 18s are known to rub on the upper control arms as well. I replaced my upper control arms with skinnier rough country control arms so I can't comment on if I would I would have rubbed or not. I got around the rubbing by installing some 1/4" spacers, I got 4 of them for around $20 on eBay. It was the only size that left some hub for the rim to sit on. The hub only sticks out 1/2" so 1/2" spacer was out of the question for me. I now clear the sway bar but can make it rub a bit while turning at full lock. Nothing to worry about really. I was also rubbing the fender liner so I zip tied it back and out of the way.
Posted

I have essentially the same tire size, but mine are 305/45r22 and they rubbed on the sway bar with rancho quicklifts that give about 2.25" lift. Smaller rims like 20's and 18s are known to rub on the upper control arms as well. I replaced my upper control arms with skinnier rough country control arms so I can't comment on if I would I would have rubbed or not. I got around the rubbing by installing some 1/4" spacers, I got 4 of them for around $20 on eBay. It was the only size that left some hub for the rim to sit on. The hub only sticks out 1/2" so 1/2" spacer was out of the question for me. I now clear the sway bar but can make it rub a bit while turning at full lock. Nothing to worry about really. I was also rubbing the fender liner so I zip tied it back and out of the way.

how did you get the rough country uppers? the only way i see them sold on there site is with the 3.5 inch kit

Posted

Called them and they have part numbers for 2014+ and they're different part numbers if you have aluminum control arms. $250 + tax & shipping. They said they're not listed on their site.

Posted

Called them and they have part numbers for 2014+ and they're different part numbers if you have aluminum control arms. $250 + tax & shipping. They said they're not listed on their site.

okay. thanks

Posted

 

Shocks like the Kings and Fox may have longer extension than stock. Frankly, I didn't measure my Kings against the OEM Ranchos for full extended free length when they were out of the truck. I installed the Cognito UCAs because I knew that GMT900 trucks needed them with the King shocks and these trucks use the same suspension.

 

Anyone using spacers like the RC kit, might benefit from an aftermarket UCA with the adjusted ball joint angle. I just don't sign up to the idea a dry Teflon socket with a steel ball, exposed to the dirt and elements, is going to last very long. I hear they also develop a squeak.

 

For anyone contemplating an aftermarket UCA, forget about the cheapest one on the market @ $250, the Rough Country UCA. It is designed poorly and interferes with the frame fittings. No amount of grinding on the frame as they recommend, allows for complete factory camber/caster adjustment range.

 

DSC_2686Medium_zpsf64e14e3.jpg

 

I have these, I called and asked for the parts specifically for a 2014+ with factory aluminum suspension and mine fit, there was a tiny bit of rubbing in the same place you are showing, but I grinded it down a tad and after the alignment to fix toe in it doesn't touch. I'm using them with rancho quick lifts to correct the ball joint angles.

gallery_140298_3311_5483605.jpggallery_140298_3311_3514664.jpg

 

I've also installed 1" longer sway bar linkage since then to get my sway bar back to stock angles. Probably didn't change anything in reality, but I wanted some nice poly bushings.

Posted

so much for wanting to get it cleaned up and take some pics .... go to the car wash and it scratches the **** out of my truck :mad:

 

owner of the place says "well thats not possible, my car wash doesnt scratch. Im not coming there tonight, we can discuss it tomorrow. I'll send one of my employees to take a look"

 

 

 

 

I opted to run thru the wash for a quick fix tonight, when all along the plan was to wash it myself tomorrow like I always do. So pissed right now

Posted

I went to my usual full service (tunnel) car wash today and they did a terrible job.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...