Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2.5 rough country level w/ 285/75/18 toyo ats on stock Sierra wheels.

 

gallery_157236_4043_2796443.jpg

Any rubbing with that size tire? I'm looking at doing the 2.5 RC on my stock 18's as well. Was thinking of the 275/70 18s

Posted

In case anyone is looking for more data points on lifts, wheels and tires. I had a 2.5" Rough Country Level/Lift kit installed... and then installed 295/55R20 Toyo Open Country ATII Xtremes, with Fuel Maverick 20x9 Wheels in a +14. After having it done... I should have gone with the +1 offset... which would have stuck out an extra 13mm's, which is .5" inches. I would have loved to gone 305/55R20's... but I wanted to keep the Chevy mudflaps... and they would had to of come off. The 295/55R20's fit with an 1" to spare!

Let's see

Posted

2.5 rough country level w/ 285/75/18 toyo ats on stock Sierra wheels.

 

gallery_157236_4043_2796443.jpg

At first glance that looks like a 2500. Looks good.
Posted

so to make a long story short..ive wore my eyes out reading the headlight threads already..now onto leveling it.

 

which kit is a front leveling only that isn't just reaming down the torsion bars or wont have the upper control arms hitting the frame at full extension. I have a 15 crew 2wd. sle. just like it to be level ..maybe even by removing a rear spacer?

thanks

Posted

Hey guys I am trying to go for this guys build (link below) although maybe a little less aggressive tires (ill take suggestions I want an off road look but don't want damper daily driving, because its really never gonna go off road just like the look). Also is there any difference between the 2014 1500 high country and the 2015 high country?

 

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/8223/wheel-offset-2014-chevrolet-silverado-1500-aggressive-1-outside-fender-leveling-kit-custom-rims

Posted

so to make a long story short..ive wore my eyes out reading the headlight threads already..now onto leveling it.

 

which kit is a front leveling only that isn't just reaming down the torsion bars or wont have the upper control arms hitting the frame at full extension. I have a 15 crew 2wd. sle. just like it to be level ..maybe even by removing a rear spacer?

thanks

 

No torsion bars on these trucks. Cheapest option and what your probably looking for any front spacer kit, try Motofab, Rough Country etc. They are all pretty similar. Either a top or bottom spacer, some are a combination of both once you go above 2.5ish inches.

 

Next option is Bilstein 5100 leveling shocks.

 

Most expensive is Fox, King coilovers etc.

 

Hey guys I am trying to go for this guys build (link below) although maybe a little less aggressive tires (ill take suggestions I want an off road look but don't want damper daily driving, because its really never gonna go off road just like the look). Also is there any difference between the 2014 1500 high country and the 2015 high country?

 

https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/8223/wheel-offset-2014-chevrolet-silverado-1500-aggressive-1-outside-fender-leveling-kit-custom-rims

 

No mechanical difference for leveling, wheels etc 14 to 15 that I know of. Id just copy what you see there. As for tires those are MT(Mud Terrains) if you want less aggressive go to an AT(All Terrain). Most popular are BFG KO2, Toyo Open Country AT2 , and Nitto Terra Grappler.

Posted

I have a 2.5" Rough Country Leveling kit... with 2.5" in the front and the 1" spacer in the back... and had no issue installing 295/55R20 Toyo Open Country AT2 Xtremes on Fuel Maverick 20/9 +14 offsets.

20160416 154121[1]

20160418 085331[1]

 

Posted

thanks..spacer kits are easy enough

Removing rear block is an option as well. Think I saw a 4wd guy do that somewhere on here.

Posted

So the suggestion (from the company) is to go with 305/55/20 BFgoodrich all terrains KOs on the 20x10 -24 fuel mavericks, everywhere I've read 305s aint gonna work with a 2.5 level?

Posted

 

I have a 2.5" Rough Country Leveling kit... with 2.5" in the front and the 1" spacer in the back... and had no issue installing 295/55R20 Toyo Open Country AT2 Xtremes on Fuel Maverick 20/9 +14 offsets.

 

 

what did ur wheels and tires cost you if you don't mind me asking

Posted

$2,900 out the door. Tire were like $350 ea.

Posted (edited)

Does Anyone know the fender height on a 3.5 level running 33's?(2014 Silverado LT)

Edited by Pigster
  • Like 1
Posted

I'm looking to do this exact set up. Feel free to post more pics. Looks perfect

Not the best, but at least it's not in the driveway. I love the final product.

 

9b33d60907503869567497bb2c315723.jpg

 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,086 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...