Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

No rubbing whatsoever!!! Parked I did full lock to lock and I had an index finger between tire and wheel well liner. I was thinking about going with a 295 but I called rc and they said trimming would be required and also the place I took the truck to to install lift said they wouldn't recommend anything larger than a 285. I'm very happy with the end result and glad I didn't go with a 295. It's The perfect tire size for this truck

 

Thanks for quick response. What about clearance between the UCA and Swaybar at full lock-to-lock. Is there any rubbing on the inside face of the tire?

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

4emeryj44 Enthusiast

4emeryj44

Posted
Posted

Thanks for quick response. What about clearance between the UCA and Swaybar at full lock-to-lock. Is there any rubbing on the inside face of the tire?

I honesty didn't look, but I couldn't see any rubbing anywhere when I was looking for wheel well rubbing. Tomorrow I'll take a look and double check for you

I honestly doubt that rough country would put out a tire size for a stock wheel configuration that would even come close to rubbing any major suspension components.

abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

 

Thanks for quick response. What about clearance between the UCA and Swaybar at full lock-to-lock. Is there any rubbing on the inside face of the tire?

285 65 18 will clear everything on a 2.5" level with wheels with factory offset all the way up to -6 offset on aftermarket 18x9. -12 offset you will have minor rubbing on the felt but fixable with a zip tie.

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

285 65 18 will clear everything on a 2.5" level with wheels with factory offset all the way up to -6 offset on aftermarket 18x9. -12 offset you will have minor rubbing on the felt but fixable with a zip tie.

 

I will be interested to see what 4emeryj44 reports back with. I'm running 275/65 Nittos and at FULL LOCK, I can't get a finger between my inner sidewall and the UCA. The Swaybar probably has 3/4" or more before it touches the tire.

 

I don't think many people realize that inner sidewall rubs the UCAs as it probably doesn't cause much vibration or noise.

abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

 

I will be interested to see what 4emeryj44 reports back with. I'm running 275/65 Nittos and at FULL LOCK, I can't get a finger between my inner sidewall and the UCA. The Swaybar probably has 3/4" or more before it touches the tire.

 

I don't think many people realize that inner sidewall rubs the UCAs as it probably doesn't cause much vibration or noise.

That's strange because my friend barely touches the UCA and hes running 305 50 20's on factory wheels which are like a +27. Sounds like the steering isn't centered unless it's real tight on both UCA's But if there is a huge gap on one side and not the other the steering is out of whack. Factory tires are 275 wide for a 20 there should be ample clearance between the UCA's

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

That's strange because my friend barely touches the UCA and hes running 305 50 20's on factory wheels which are like a +27. Sounds like the steering isn't centered unless it's real tight on both UCA's But if there is a huge gap on one side and not the other the steering is out of whack. Factory tires are 275 wide for a 20 there should be ample clearance between the UCA's

 

Both sides are even...my truck has had a complete new steering assembly put in it...and many alignments by the dealer (before and after the level). Tire wear is perfect and they rotate every oil change...I get 3 years free service at my local dealer. I've been lock to lock and held with a bungee to measure both sides many times as I've wanted to be sure before I get new tires. The clearance is very small at stock geometry...that's why I think 295s and 305s are rubbing more than people think on stocker 18s. I know 295/70r18s will rub both the UCA and swaybar on stockers unless you run at least a 1/2" spacer--there's several guys on here running them.

 

It's 18s that cause the problem with UCA clearance as 20s put the bulge of the tire a little bit more up and forward and away from the UCA. It's why you can usually run stock 20s with a knuckle lift, but not 18s....the extra height clears more. 18s require 1" more of spacer for knuckle lifts.

burke0428 New Member

burke0428

Posted
Posted

For all the guys out there with stock 18" wheels...275/70/18 fits great with a RC 2" leveling kit. I couldn't find much info for 18" wheel and tire combos, so there ya go. I am running 275/70/18 toyo open country at ll, with no rubbing, no trimming and its drives awesome.

abominable z71 Enthusiast

abominable z71

Posted
Posted

 

Both sides are even...my truck has had a complete new steering assembly put in it...and many alignments by the dealer (before and after the level). Tire wear is perfect and they rotate every oil change...I get 3 years free service at my local dealer. I've been lock to lock and held with a bungee to measure both sides many times as I've wanted to be sure before I get new tires. The clearance is very small at stock geometry...that's why I think 295s and 305s are rubbing more than people think on stocker 18s. I know 295/70r18s will rub both the UCA and swaybar on stockers unless you run at least a 1/2" spacer--there's several guys on here running them.

 

It's 18s that cause the problem with UCA clearance as 20s put the bulge of the tire a little bit more up and forward and away from the UCA. It's why you can usually run stock 20s with a knuckle lift, but not 18s....the extra height clears more. 18s require 1" more of spacer for knuckle lifts.

That makes sense, i have never seen what the factory18's look like as far as clearance goes. My truck had the factory 20's and I swapped them out first for 18x9 -6 racelines then for the 18x9 -12 fuels that are on it now so UCA and swaybar clearances were never an issue clearance around the rear of the wheel well dictates tire size at that point. It would seem a 0 offset in an 18 is probably ideal for clearances around suspension parts and the wheel wells I just don't like the 20's unless the tires are 35" or bigger, both from a looks and functionality standpoint. Showing my age I guess I don't understand the point of running a 33 12.50 on a 22 x 12 inch wheel, looks dumb IMO, rides like garbage and zero functionality i guess I got to the point where I don't care if I'm cool anymore.

tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted (edited)

For all the guys out there with stock 18" wheels...275/70/18 fits great with a RC 2" leveling kit. I couldn't find much info for 18" wheel and tire combos, so there ya go. I am running 275/70/18 toyo open country at ll, with no rubbing, no trimming and its drives awesome.

I'm running the same size 275/70 BFG KO2 on a 2" level and stock wheels. No rubbing or trimming, even offroad its still perfectly fine.

Edited by tyrich88
bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted

For all the guys out there with stock 18" wheels...275/70/18 fits great with a RC 2" leveling kit. I couldn't find much info for 18" wheel and tire combos, so there ya go. I am running 275/70/18 toyo open country at ll, with no rubbing, no trimming and its drives awesome.

 

That size will fit without a level. The problem with that tire is how narrow they look, especially on a stock rim. Great side profile, but not so beefy coming and going. IMO, the 285/65r18 looks more 4x4ish even though it will be up to .5" shorter.

NJgmc2014 Enthusiast

NJgmc2014

Posted
Posted

I am running 285/65R18 Toyo OC ATII on a RC 2.5" level and there is no rub at all. IMO it looks great

disturbedgator Enthusiast

disturbedgator

Posted
Posted

 

That size will fit without a level. The problem with that tire is how narrow they look, especially on a stock rim. Great side profile, but not so beefy coming and going. IMO, the 285/65r18 looks more 4x4ish even though it will be up to .5" shorter.

do you have pics

?

papageoff Enthusiast

papageoff

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone. Been lurking for a while and now I'm ready to pull the trigger on a level for my new-to-me 2015 LT Z71 DC. My measurements from the ground to fender lip across the center cap show that I have about 2.75" of rake. I don't mind there being some, but right now my nose is in the weeds. That and the tires kinda make me mad I paid for a z71. That z71 ain't what it used to be. Live and learn. I've had the truck about a month and I don't particularly mind how it rides, it's just too low in the front.

 

Ultimately, I'd like a 4" lift, but for now warranties and not causing damage to the truck are more important.

 

I've been bouncing between the RC 2.5" and the Bilstein 5100s. I know that the RC is a little extreme for a leveling kit, but I wonder if 1.85" will be enough level to look good. Also, do I need to worry about driveline angles with the Bilsteins? The price between the two isn't a factor in the decision. I'd also put the bilsteins in the rear if I did the fronts.

 

Can anyone give me some advice?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
    • kickass audio
      Software Update

      By kickass audio · Posted

      when it's greyed out that is it's way of telling you that it's downloading the patch in the background. Eventually it will be fully downloaded and then it will prompt you at ignition shut down to run the update. I highly recommend doing the update once you get home and can run it a few times. I've had several issues with updates not going the first time around and I had to retry the update multiple times in my driveway before it was successful.   Some updates are huge and take awhile to download. You can help it by connecting to your home WiFi and keep the truck on service mode for the ignition and keep it alive for awhile on a battery charger too. There are specs it needs to be in for updating such as a full enough battery charge, no running ignition, etc.
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am not techy at all but wondered if you have the truck running but sitting still in park as some functions gray out as soon as the truck is moving. I believe in the settings for updates you can choose for it NOT to update and I wonder by chance if maybe that was chosen before and now it won't allow you to chose to press update, I think that is back in the settings menu where it has all the items one wants on or off etc. Also I assume you have a wifi connection and checked that it has some signal strength, not that it would have anything to do with the grayed out updates choice in that case. What I am thinking out loud of here may be be of no value but thought I would suggest it, sometimes it can be the simplest thing that resolves an issue.  
    • Chuck FB
      Dave's Auto (custom engine builder) tear down of L8T

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      The so called rare failure that some certainly liked to tout ( die hard Ford fan boys ) as per the lifter failing and wiping out the cam. Back when it started happening the blame was being pointed to the lifters and honestly I never did hear anything myself conclusively one way or the other on that. Ford themselves in I believe 2024 had a technical bulletin I will call it that came out and for some engine platforms they were reprograming the engines idle speed but also they had a software update for the oil pump which then some time later was said what that software update did as to be increasing the oil pressure at idle. It is a good question if that issue was completely solved as one Ford specialist mechanic youtuber said he saw failures after that time period. Like anything there would be the variables, what oil is being used and the OCI and how much idle time gets put on an engine. I've seen some comments to claim that the L8T isn't so happy with high idle time either but I also know that companies that require their vehicle to idle a lot on the job don't tend to get the oil changed often enough for all those hours of idle time and go off of the odometer. 
    • bwiese
      Lower trims ( WT, Custom, Silverado ( aka LT )

      By bwiese · Posted

      My 2026 Silv. 1500 WT (reg cab/short bed/4wd) has the 40/20/40 with storage in lower middle seat as well as the fold-down center bolster/armrest.   With the dual glove boxes this is about as much storage as possible in a std cab IMHO. Bill

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...