Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bare with me...I'm new here. I wanted to post a few pics since this forum has helped me figure out what I wanted to go with. Hopefully, this will help someone else out. I was looking to level my front end without giving up any ride quality, as well as get a little bit bigger tire without losing any gas mileage. I wanted to/and will eventually go with a 295/55, but going from about 42 lbs per tire to about 61 lbs per tire seemed like a big jump. I was going to get a programmer, but I read that with these newer trucks, the dealership can tell if you had programmed it, even if you programmed back to stock, and it could void the warranty. So, I decided I'll wait until my warranty is up before I go with a heavier tire and a programmer. I went with the Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Ride Height Shocks at highest setting (about 1.86) and 275/60 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 on stock 20x9 GMC Wheels. The tires are not an LT, but are an XL, which means they are a 4-ply tire with an extra load rating. They ride about the same as the tires that came on the truck and are the same weight. I do a lot of highway driving with very little off road driving or towing, so I was ok with not going to an LT tire. As far as the 5100's go, couldn't be happier. I read that the ride would be stiffer, but better. Didn't understand what that would feel like until I drove it. Much better...no more bounce. Even my wife thinks it rides better. No rub at all.

275/60, is that bigger then what you had? If so, you recalibrate the speedo? Will that affect "actual" mileage if you dont calibrate?

Posted

275/60, is that bigger then what you had? If so, you recalibrate the speedo? Will that affect "actual" mileage if you dont calibrate?

 

Yes, I had 275/55. Same width, just an inch taller now. I did not re calibrate, but I need to as I think I am off about 2-3 MPG. So if my speedo says 80, I'm really going 82 or 83. I haven't tested it yet, though to know exact. I am going to run by my GMC dealership and see if they can re calibrate the speedo for me, as I have read that they will for a small fee. I would like to go about an inch wider, which would put me into a 295/55, but I'm not ready to go up that much in weight.

Posted

Bare with me...I'm new here. I wanted to post a few pics since this forum has helped me figure out what I wanted to go with. Hopefully, this will help someone else out. I was looking to level my front end without giving up any ride quality, as well as get a little bit bigger tire without losing any gas mileage. I wanted to/and will eventually go with a 295/55, but going from about 42 lbs per tire to about 61 lbs per tire seemed like a big jump. I was going to get a programmer, but I read that with these newer trucks, the dealership can tell if you had programmed it, even if you programmed back to stock, and it could void the warranty. So, I decided I'll wait until my warranty is up before I go with a heavier tire and a programmer. I went with the Bilstein 5100 Adjustable Ride Height Shocks at highest setting (about 1.86) and 275/60 Nitto Terra Grappler G2 on stock 20x9 GMC Wheels. The tires are not an LT, but are an XL, which means they are a 4-ply tire with an extra load rating. They ride about the same as the tires that came on the truck and are the same weight. I do a lot of highway driving with very little off road driving or towing, so I was ok with not going to an LT tire. As far as the 5100's go, couldn't be happier. I read that the ride would be stiffer, but better. Didn't understand what that would feel like until I drove it. Much better...no more bounce. Even my wife thinks it rides better. No rub at all.

I recently joined as well. I have been reading for the past 2 weeks just on this one forum. I have been waiting for someone to post pictures of a Pepperdust Sierra with a level. Yours looks really good. Did you happen to take measurements before and after your install? I have been thinking about a 2" RC with Bilstein 5100's but I am gonna try and fit a larger tire.

Posted

I recently joined as well. I have been reading for the past 2 weeks just on this one forum. I have been waiting for someone to post pictures of a Pepperdust Sierra with a level. Yours looks really good. Did you happen to take measurements before and after your install? I have been thinking about a 2" RC with Bilstein 5100's but I am gonna try and fit a larger tire.

 

Thanks. Yeah there's not too many of this color yet. I search around as well. I didn't get exact measurements but my front wheel well was right at 36" off the ground, and now I'm right at 38". I wish I would've take exact measurements, because everything I've read about the 5100's is that at the highest you'll get 1.86", but it sure seems like I got a full 2". I know there's not a lot of difference, but needless to say I got every bit of 1.86". There are other forums that have a lot of discussion about using a 2" RC with 5100's. I found that the best thing to do was type into Google or Yahoo Images what I wanted to see. Most of the time, the photos are linked to a good forum.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

Yes, I had 275/55. Same width, just an inch taller now. I did not re calibrate, but I need to as I think I am off about 2-3 MPG. So if my speedo says 80, I'm really going 82 or 83. I haven't tested it yet, though to know exact. I am going to run by my GMC dealership and see if they can re calibrate the speedo for me, as I have read that they will for a small fee. I would like to go about an inch wider, which would put me into a 295/55, but I'm not ready to go up that much in weight.

 

Don't bother with asking the dealer to recalibrate for the taller tires. Been there and was told "no". All the factory tire sizes are close to 31.75" in height, regardless of the rim size. My dealer was straight up about it with me, he said they couldn't do it, and if I used an aftermarket programmer, to even simply adjust for the tire size, GM considers it a "modification" to the factory programming and can/will null your powertrain warranty if you have any issues later. He said it was best to be aware that the speedo was off by a little and just live with it.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

Don't bother with asking the dealer to recalibrate for the taller tires. Been there and was told "no". All the factory tire sizes are close to 31.75" in height, regardless of the rim size. My dealer was straight up about it with me, he said they couldn't do it, and if I used an aftermarket programmer, to even simply adjust for the tire size, GM considers it a "modification" to the factory programming and can/will null your powertrain warranty if you have any issues later. He said it was best to be aware that the speedo was off by a little and just live with it.

 

Ok, cool. Thanks for the heads up. Guess I'll just live with it, then and won't waste my time.

Posted

Progression of my 2016 Z71. Hopefully this helps some members decide on how far to go.

 

Stock

20161112_082051.jpg

 

2" RC Level with stock wheels/tires

20161113_075121.jpg

 

2" RC Level with Gear Alloy 20x9 and Toyo ATII 295/55/20 (Very smoky that day due to wildfires in our area).

20161118_110341.jpg

 

Cleaned up

20161120_161234.jpg

 

2" RC level with Zone 1.5" Body Lift. RC steps added for the wife. Having exhaust pipe raised next week.

Lift%20with%20steps.jpg

Looking for my 2016 Sierra. Which Zone 1.5" BL did you buy? The website only lists a 2014-2015 Chevy/GMC 1500 1.5" kit.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I purchased the BL for 2015-2015 models. The instructions actually include steps for 2016 models. I'm not sure why they haven't revised the kit description.

Edited by Salty315
Posted

Looking for my 2016 Sierra. Which Zone 1.5" BL did you buy? The website only lists a 2014-2015 Chevy/GMC 1500 1.5" kit.

I purchased the BL for 2015-2015 models. The instructions actually include steps for 2016 models. I'm not sure why they haven't revised the kit description.

Posted

Here's mine with 20x9 Mavericks and 295/55 Toyos, RC 2" in the front only

:drool: are you leveled evenly w just the 2" in front?

Posted

I purchased the BL for 2015-2015 models. The instructions actually include steps for 2016 models. I'm not sure why they haven't revised the kit description.

Thanks! I'll call and ask them why it hasn't been updated.

Posted

Thanks! I'll call and ask them why it hasn't been updated.

FYI. I just got off the phone with Jeremy at Zone and he told me that they will be coming out with a kit for the 2016 models but it is different from the 2014-2015 C9151 Zone 1.5" BL Kit. He said the bolts should be different and the parking brake bracket will be different and the new kit should be available "soon". That was the best he could offer me.

Posted

I purchased the BL for 2015-2015 models. The instructions actually include steps for 2016 models. I'm not sure why they haven't revised the kit description.

He told me on the phone that the instructions were updated "prematurely"...

Posted

Here's mine with 20x9 Mavericks and 295/55 Toyos, RC 2" in the front only

Nice truck! Love those front ends, especially color matched.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
    • I agree with this assessment. As you know I’m testing longevity with vehicles for the first time. I have a few vehicles I passed to kids and grandkids. We’re all past 100K miles some approaching 170K. I’m the only one doing 5k oil changes. The rest whatever the minder says. I’m the only one doing frequent transmission service. My odyssey the trip vehicle at 200K will be finished as a trip vehicle. I recently changed to high mileage oil, Valvoline. I can’t get past the fact that all manufacturers want to claim long service life. I just don’t make sense that they would go with low weight oil for mileage. While sacrificing longevity.
    • There's absolutely a mountain of profit in catering to the "I do my own research" crowd, people who are certain they know better. And I don't mean there isn't data to support that 0w40 produces less wear product than 0w20 in an engine like the 3.0 Duramax, that only feeds them the assurance they need. Again, my whole thing with oil selection is, sure, 0w40 or 0w30 produces less wear product. Are we talking the difference between the engine lasting only 100k versus 200k? Or are we talking more like, if the engine will already go 350k on a good 0w20 regimen recommended by the OE, is using 0w40 going to get us to 355k, assuming we can even get the rest of the truck to last that long, meanwhile sacrificing the first 5y, 100k in powertrain warranty. The answer isn't easy, there are tradeoffs.   I willfully use 0w20 Dexos D for this reason, knowing that a 0w40 will produce slightly less wear. I don't believe the delta in wear product is meaningful over the lifetime of the engine, and I place much more importance on driving style and overall feeding and care of the engine as a whole. It's the mentality that someone can abstain from alcohol their whole life which is an amazing boost to health by itself, theoretically. But if they're sedentary, that lifestyle choice will most likely kill them young despite their other, concerted efforts. Maybe someone doesn't drink AND they are the perfect picture of health and activity AND they use 0w40 AND they treat their engine perfectly. If living until 130 years is the goal, sure, do that. But it's going to be a really old truck falling apart around a good engine for that last 30 years, without a doubt.   I watched Demonworks' other video on the 100k+ 3.0 Duramax that had dealer 0w20 changes on what appears to be OLM-prescribed intervals (8-10k).   The QR codes are still present and readable on the main bearings. That's how little wear it has.   That's not proof that anyone else should stick to 0w20, but it's confirmation, for me, that 0w20 is perfectly acceptable to use in these engines.
    • 1Based on independent testing of OE 0W-20 in the Peugeot TU3M Wear Test as required by the dexos1 Gen 2 specification.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...