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Posted

I ended up giving up and busting one of mine up really good with a pickle fork (was putting on new UCAs anyway).

 

I've always broke themapart with a hammer on other trucks, but couldn't get this one to budge. I let it hang for an hour after hammering. Sprayed it with penetrating fluid. Cranked the wheel back and forth. Beat on it from every direction and every height (jacked the lca up and down at various heights) and never could get it to bust loose with a hammer. The passenger one came apart much easier. Not sure why this one was so much harder.

 

 

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Posted

For those who've done their own leveling kit:

 

I've done several on my previous vehicles, and a fair amount of front end work in college, but.... I attempted to pop the upper ball joint this week, on my new Silverado, and it wouldn't budge. I used a pair of 3# hammers (one one the left side of the knuckle, the other swung from the right, and vis-versa.) Nothing! Puppy is holding fast!

 

A friend suggested that the knub on the back side of the knuckle was the appropriate target point... what's your experience?

Maybe try putting a jack under the knuckle and jack it up a little bit. Then try whacking it with a sledge.

 

 

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Posted

For those who've done their own leveling kit:

 

I've done several on my previous vehicles, and a fair amount of front end work in college, but.... I attempted to pop the upper ball joint this week, on my new Silverado, and it wouldn't budge. I used a pair of 3# hammers (one one the left side of the knuckle, the other swung from the right, and vis-versa.) Nothing! Puppy is holding fast!

 

A friend suggested that the knub on the back side of the knuckle was the appropriate target point... what's your experience?

Same here like the others have said. Right side popped off but the left side wouldn't no matter what I did. I was able to get the spacer in the left side without dropping the ball joint. PITA, but I got it. Also, I don't believe it's necessary to disconnect the electric steering connectors either. Those clips break super easy. Ask me how I know..

  • Like 1
Posted

Same here like the others have said. Right side popped off but the left side wouldn't no matter what I did. I was able to get the spacer in the left side without dropping the ball joint. PITA, but I got it. Also, I don't believe it's necessary to disconnect the electric steering connectors either. Those clips break super easy. Ask me how I know..

How did you install the spacer without popping the upper ball joint? I thought about trying to compress the strutt with a bottle jack while the suspension is at full droop.

Posted

With the opposite side still up in the air with both sway bar links disconnected, you can disconnect the bottom strut bolts and loosen the top strut bolts and just about get the spacer on without compressing. I tried that, it would have worked if I would have had a second jack or a second set of hands to help compress the shock or the coil/upper arm.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

But getting the nut on the lower strut bolt that sits under the 4wd axle will be interesting if you don't drop the knuckle.

Edited by Mattvand
  • Like 1
Posted

But getting the nut on the lower strut bolt that sits under the 4wd axle will be interesting if you don't drop the knuckle.

You put the bolt in from the bottom on the axle side.

Posted (edited)

How did you install the spacer without popping the upper ball joint? I thought about trying to compress the strutt with a bottle jack while the suspension is at full droop.

Lots of persuasion! With the RC kits being polymer, once you get a corner of it started, they tap in the rest of the way fairly easily.

Edited by '17 Sierra
Posted

Nice setup. Love those tires! Any room for larger size?

 

 

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Sorry never saw this, I think it can squeeze 35's just fine! Masbe with some slight trimming.

Posted

RANCHO RS999901

Has anyone used this to replace the entire strut assembly to level my truck? I can do this easily. Otherwise I was going to go with the Bilstein shock replacement and have to get a spring compressor and all. Thanks.

  • Like 1
Posted

RANCHO RS999901

Has anyone used this to replace the entire strut assembly to level my truck? I can do this easily. Otherwise I was going to go with the Bilstein shock replacement and have to get a spring compressor and all. Thanks.

I have heard good things about the rancho quick lift other than they get rusty fast.

I want to get them as well but not sure if I'd rather get the fox ones.

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Ordered the Rancho Quick lifts and matching rear shocks. I like the ease of install and not having to dismantle the strut. Should have them tomorrow and install them over the weekend if I have time. I've switched out strut assemblies before on many GM trucks. Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

Edited by raress9596
  • Like 1
Posted

Hello everyone, I have a 2014 Sierra 1500 SLE and installed the Bilstein 5100's on all four corners. You don't have to change the rear shocks if you don't want to but that's up to you. You will need an alignment. The stance to perfect with an 1/8 of inch. Ride has since gotten better and more comfortable. Hope this helps.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ordered the Rancho Quick lifts and matching rear shocks. I like the ease of install and not having to dismantle the strut. Should have them tomorrow and install them over the weekend if I have time. I've switched out strut assemblys before on many GM trucks. Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours.

Can you do measurements of the amount of lift it adds, the rancho page says that it will make your truck able to run 35s but doesn't say what it needs to be paired with if anything.

 

I found only one video of a guy running 35s with them.

 

 

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