Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

2017 Sierra Elevation Edition, 3 inch Motofab Level kit, 2 inch blocks on rear with 285/60/20 Toyo R/Ts on stock wheels.

Resized_20180131_113502.jpeg

Edited by joeglide2017
Posted
On 1/23/2018 at 2:58 PM, 24v said:

Here is my 17 Sierra Elevation with a 2" level I got from Amazon (aluminum blocks for under the struts) and Nitto Ridge Grappler 295/60/20 on stock wheels.  I can turn lock to lock with no contact to the liners, but I suspect under load it will rub a little.  It does hit the sway bar at full lock, but not too bad.

 

28083783089_57f922025f_h.jpg

 

28083782379_323dcb59bb_h.jpg

 

/28083783689_bccaec7e1d_h.jpg

 

 

do you have stamped steel UCA or cast steel?

 

im looking to run a 2" level on my 17 sierra with stamped steel UCA, just wondering if i would be fine with 295/60/20 on my stock rims as well. 

Posted

Mine are stamped.  I don't think there is any interference with the control arm?  The tires rub the sway bar at full lock, and just barely touch a spot on the fender liner.  I have put about 600 miles on them so far.

Posted

Just had a zone 1.5" body lift added to my 2.5" rc level kit.  Turned out great looks mean but still need a beefier tire and bora wheel spacers or some new wheels with an offset but not too aggressive. 

 

Sorry not the greatest photo yet. Damn snow.

20180202_165434~2.jpg

Posted (edited)

2.5 in level on my 15 SLT.  It sits exactly how I want.  Now for bigger tires.  

BAF23226-8C0F-4FB7-8F87-46AAF1A6095A.jpeg

Edited by Wescraig10
Posted (edited)

Here's my Sierra with a 2.5" leveling kit. Rough Country 2" lower strut spacers and 1/2" Motofab top strut spacers. Came out just how i wanted. Bigger wheels and tires coming this week 

 

Level Kit .jpg

Edited by Tcorse22
Posted

I have a 17 Denali with the magneride and want to keep my 22's.  Im looking at about a 2.5" level.  Which lift is better for the control arm angles;  2.5" spacer on top of the coil spring, and 2.5" spacer on the bottom shock mount, or a combo of the two?  There aren't a lot of options for the magneride.

Posted
7 hours ago, MOSierra said:

I have a 17 Denali with the magneride and want to keep my 22's.  Im looking at about a 2.5" level.  Which lift is better for the control arm angles;  2.5" spacer on top of the coil spring, and 2.5" spacer on the bottom shock mount, or a combo of the two?  There aren't a lot of options for the magneride.

Won't be any different as far as the arms are concerned.  Longer overall shock length either way.

Posted

Ditched my 275/60/20 Toyo AT and put on 285/65/20 Toyo AT2, minor trimming and fills the wheel wells so much better, running a 3” leveling kit with rear block removed.

7E17F244-8C52-4CE1-97F8-A3558D9F0B65.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if I could get some advice, please excuse any stupid questions.

I am looking to install a level lift on my 2016 Silverado 1500 LT, I was thinking about either doing 3" front 2" back or 2.5" front and 1.5" back.  I am in the market on getting new wheels as well,  How big can I go without rubbing (33?)?  I tow a pontoon (~3000 lbs), does the level lift impact towing at all?  I still want to park in my garage, will I be able to fit with either of the lift combos along with the bigger tires (standard 2 car garage, 7 ft tall)?

I was looking at using the below:

https://www.amazon.com/MotoFab-Lifts-CH-3F-2R-2007-2017-Silverado/dp/B0156T83UI/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518096723&vehicle=2016-47-491-------------0&sr=1-6&ymm=2016%3Achevrolet%3Asilverado+1500&keywords=2016+chevy+silverado+lift#customerReviews

Wheels - Hostile Sprocket (20") or XD Series XD820 (20")

I have been looking at a lot of different forums and it seems like everyone has their own opinions, just looking for some constructive criticism/advice.

Thanks in advance.
Funk

Posted (edited)

large.TRUCKBNA.jpg.49932fb7a65c42cb3e3ec553e895fcd8.jpg

 

Installed the Rough Country 2" Leveling Kit on my '18 over the weekend. Loving it so far. The picture really doesn't do it justice. The difference is immense. It looks so much better now. My wife says it needs bigger tires now. Who am I to argue?! LOL.

Edited by Skov18
pic stopped working
Posted
8 hours ago, Funk said:

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if I could get some advice, please excuse any stupid questions.

I am looking to install a level lift on my 2016 Silverado 1500 LT, I was thinking about either doing 3" front 2" back or 2.5" front and 1.5" back.  I am in the market on getting new wheels as well,  How big can I go without rubbing (33?)?  I tow a pontoon (~3000 lbs), does the level lift impact towing at all?  I still want to park in my garage, will I be able to fit with either of the lift combos along with the bigger tires (standard 2 car garage, 7 ft tall)?

I was looking at using the below:

https://www.amazon.com/MotoFab-Lifts-CH-3F-2R-2007-2017-Silverado/dp/B0156T83UI/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518096723&vehicle=2016-47-491-------------0&sr=1-6&ymm=2016%3Achevrolet%3Asilverado+1500&keywords=2016+chevy+silverado+lift#customerReviews

Wheels - Hostile Sprocket (20") or XD Series XD820 (20")

I have been looking at a lot of different forums and it seems like everyone has their own opinions, just looking for some constructive criticism/advice.

Thanks in advance.
Funk

thinking about doing the 3 front and 2 rear as well. curious to see what others say

Posted (edited)

Just put a rough country 2.5” level in the front only and got some new wheels/rubber. Running pro comp 34 Rockwell with 295/70/18 Terra Grappler G2’s. It turned out pretty well I think. Although, I might install the rear block sometime this week. Tires rub slightly at full lock but I’ll get around to trimming that soon. 

62F07669-8654-4427-9B39-23D137EE7EB6.jpeg

Edited by CradleyBooper
  • Like 1
Posted

Installed 5100 Bilsteins with 2" Level and 305/55R20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2. The ride is better than Stock which was really good, this thing is super smooth and quiet quiet quiet! I also added 8mm spacers to ensure no rub and I did not have to trim anything. One thing I think folks need to consider is doing a performance balance on their tires and I am absolutely not talking about Roadforce. We took Static down to under .05oz and Dynamic to under .10oz a tire and this thing rides like butter. I am super happy with this set-up!

Not Leveled.png

Leveled (1).png

Leveled Rt Side.jpeg

Leveled (3).jpeg

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
    • There was a recall on the tailgate in general for opening on its own. Mine has a cap on it and it won’t let the tailgate open.   My tailgate has two holes in the top of the tailgate. I filled them in with silicone sealant. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...