Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

joeglide2017 Enthusiast

joeglide2017

Posted
Posted (edited)

2017 Sierra Elevation Edition, 3 inch Motofab Level kit, 2 inch blocks on rear with 285/60/20 Toyo R/Ts on stock wheels.

Resized_20180131_113502.jpeg

Edited by joeglide2017
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

vancity_chad Enthusiast

vancity_chad

Posted
Posted
On 1/23/2018 at 2:58 PM, 24v said:

Here is my 17 Sierra Elevation with a 2" level I got from Amazon (aluminum blocks for under the struts) and Nitto Ridge Grappler 295/60/20 on stock wheels.  I can turn lock to lock with no contact to the liners, but I suspect under load it will rub a little.  It does hit the sway bar at full lock, but not too bad.

 

28083783089_57f922025f_h.jpg

 

28083782379_323dcb59bb_h.jpg

 

/28083783689_bccaec7e1d_h.jpg

 

 

do you have stamped steel UCA or cast steel?

 

im looking to run a 2" level on my 17 sierra with stamped steel UCA, just wondering if i would be fine with 295/60/20 on my stock rims as well. 

24v Enthusiast

24v

Posted
Posted

Mine are stamped.  I don't think there is any interference with the control arm?  The tires rub the sway bar at full lock, and just barely touch a spot on the fender liner.  I have put about 600 miles on them so far.

J.WrightZ71 Enthusiast

J.WrightZ71

Posted
Posted

Just had a zone 1.5" body lift added to my 2.5" rc level kit.  Turned out great looks mean but still need a beefier tire and bora wheel spacers or some new wheels with an offset but not too aggressive. 

 

Sorry not the greatest photo yet. Damn snow.

20180202_165434~2.jpg

Wescraig10 New Member

Wescraig10

Posted
Posted (edited)

2.5 in level on my 15 SLT.  It sits exactly how I want.  Now for bigger tires.  

BAF23226-8C0F-4FB7-8F87-46AAF1A6095A.jpeg

Edited by Wescraig10
Tcorse22 New Member

Tcorse22

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here's my Sierra with a 2.5" leveling kit. Rough Country 2" lower strut spacers and 1/2" Motofab top strut spacers. Came out just how i wanted. Bigger wheels and tires coming this week 

 

Level Kit .jpg

Edited by Tcorse22
MOSierra Enthusiast

MOSierra

Posted
Posted

I have a 17 Denali with the magneride and want to keep my 22's.  Im looking at about a 2.5" level.  Which lift is better for the control arm angles;  2.5" spacer on top of the coil spring, and 2.5" spacer on the bottom shock mount, or a combo of the two?  There aren't a lot of options for the magneride.

24v Enthusiast

24v

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, MOSierra said:

I have a 17 Denali with the magneride and want to keep my 22's.  Im looking at about a 2.5" level.  Which lift is better for the control arm angles;  2.5" spacer on top of the coil spring, and 2.5" spacer on the bottom shock mount, or a combo of the two?  There aren't a lot of options for the magneride.

Won't be any different as far as the arms are concerned.  Longer overall shock length either way.

Sleek17 Enthusiast

Sleek17

Posted
Posted

Ditched my 275/60/20 Toyo AT and put on 285/65/20 Toyo AT2, minor trimming and fills the wheel wells so much better, running a 3” leveling kit with rear block removed.

7E17F244-8C52-4CE1-97F8-A3558D9F0B65.jpeg

  • Like 1
Funk New Member

Funk

Posted
Posted

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if I could get some advice, please excuse any stupid questions.

I am looking to install a level lift on my 2016 Silverado 1500 LT, I was thinking about either doing 3" front 2" back or 2.5" front and 1.5" back.  I am in the market on getting new wheels as well,  How big can I go without rubbing (33?)?  I tow a pontoon (~3000 lbs), does the level lift impact towing at all?  I still want to park in my garage, will I be able to fit with either of the lift combos along with the bigger tires (standard 2 car garage, 7 ft tall)?

I was looking at using the below:

https://www.amazon.com/MotoFab-Lifts-CH-3F-2R-2007-2017-Silverado/dp/B0156T83UI/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518096723&vehicle=2016-47-491-------------0&sr=1-6&ymm=2016%3Achevrolet%3Asilverado+1500&keywords=2016+chevy+silverado+lift#customerReviews

Wheels - Hostile Sprocket (20") or XD Series XD820 (20")

I have been looking at a lot of different forums and it seems like everyone has their own opinions, just looking for some constructive criticism/advice.

Thanks in advance.
Funk

Skov18 Enthusiast

Skov18

Posted
Posted (edited)

large.TRUCKBNA.jpg.49932fb7a65c42cb3e3ec553e895fcd8.jpg

 

Installed the Rough Country 2" Leveling Kit on my '18 over the weekend. Loving it so far. The picture really doesn't do it justice. The difference is immense. It looks so much better now. My wife says it needs bigger tires now. Who am I to argue?! LOL.

Edited by Skov18
pic stopped working
Michael Schimborski Enthusiast

Michael Schimborski

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Funk said:

I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if I could get some advice, please excuse any stupid questions.

I am looking to install a level lift on my 2016 Silverado 1500 LT, I was thinking about either doing 3" front 2" back or 2.5" front and 1.5" back.  I am in the market on getting new wheels as well,  How big can I go without rubbing (33?)?  I tow a pontoon (~3000 lbs), does the level lift impact towing at all?  I still want to park in my garage, will I be able to fit with either of the lift combos along with the bigger tires (standard 2 car garage, 7 ft tall)?

I was looking at using the below:

https://www.amazon.com/MotoFab-Lifts-CH-3F-2R-2007-2017-Silverado/dp/B0156T83UI/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1518096723&vehicle=2016-47-491-------------0&sr=1-6&ymm=2016%3Achevrolet%3Asilverado+1500&keywords=2016+chevy+silverado+lift#customerReviews

Wheels - Hostile Sprocket (20") or XD Series XD820 (20")

I have been looking at a lot of different forums and it seems like everyone has their own opinions, just looking for some constructive criticism/advice.

Thanks in advance.
Funk

thinking about doing the 3 front and 2 rear as well. curious to see what others say

CradleyBooper Enthusiast

CradleyBooper

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just put a rough country 2.5” level in the front only and got some new wheels/rubber. Running pro comp 34 Rockwell with 295/70/18 Terra Grappler G2’s. It turned out pretty well I think. Although, I might install the rear block sometime this week. Tires rub slightly at full lock but I’ll get around to trimming that soon. 

62F07669-8654-4427-9B39-23D137EE7EB6.jpeg

Edited by CradleyBooper
  • Like 1
6.2_GMC_DEN Enthusiast

6.2_GMC_DEN

Posted
Posted

Installed 5100 Bilsteins with 2" Level and 305/55R20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2. The ride is better than Stock which was really good, this thing is super smooth and quiet quiet quiet! I also added 8mm spacers to ensure no rub and I did not have to trim anything. One thing I think folks need to consider is doing a performance balance on their tires and I am absolutely not talking about Roadforce. We took Static down to under .05oz and Dynamic to under .10oz a tire and this thing rides like butter. I am super happy with this set-up!

Not Leveled.png

Leveled (1).png

Leveled Rt Side.jpeg

Leveled (3).jpeg

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,479 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...