Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
King coilover replacements with deaver rear mini pack and removal of the 1” block running 285/70/17 Falkens

Second picture is with 315/70/17 BFG’s same lift, with trimming. It rubs, but I have a Baja kits upper and lower kit coming next week to solve that problem.
39bbd4440f45c3ac2e3a5b448a71cfe6.jpgfa3efac63277d605c3bfde9d2fb18e19.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Got anymore pictures? Truck looks good and I'm curious what it looks like with the 285/70


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

Dirt-Rado Enthusiast

Dirt-Rado

Posted
Posted



Got anymore pictures? Truck looks good and I'm curious what it looks like with the 285/70


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These are all 285/70/179537e3339233ae4e343b7026f9650321.jpg
af8264052384f5edf692137c937b646f.jpg8ed3cbfedd0fe346a0ad289366bf4cf7.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
5b777ec6a2eea_IMG_2510(1).thumb.jpg.6b8737e30a2d4b868065060feaf9b39f.jpg
2015 GMC Sierra 2" Rough Country Leveling kit with 20x10 Wheels and 32x11 Toyo Open Country A/T.
 


What's the metric size on the tires? Toyo doesn't make a 32x11 to my knowledge. Are they 275/60?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
driha Enthusiast

driha

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, jgraves13 said:

 


What's the metric size on the tires? Toyo doesn't make a 32x11 to my knowledge. Are they 275/60?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

When I bought them from custom offsets it was technically 31.9x10.8, I don’t know the metric size off of the top of my head. 

LoweredKlass Enthusiast

LoweredKlass

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just picked up a 2018 1500, and looking to level the front a bit, like 1.5" to 2" tops

From what I've read so far, it sounds like with the newer models, you should be replacing the uca, regardless of what leveling kit you go with. 

This true even with a slight level like a 1.5"?

I'm keeping the stock 20" wheels and tires - at least for now lol -

jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
When I bought them from custom offsets it was technically 31.9x10.8, I don’t know the metric size off of the top of my head. 


Just look at the side of the tire. It has the size on there


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Daly Senior Enthusiast

Daly

Posted
Posted

31.9x10.8" tire on a 20" wheel is a stock 275/55r20. 

nmyron Enthusiast

nmyron

Posted
Posted
On 8/18/2018 at 11:21 AM, LoweredKlass said:

Hey guys,

Just picked up a 2018 1500, and looking to level the front a bit, like 1.5" to 2" tops

From what I've read so far, it sounds like with the newer models, you should be replacing the uca, regardless of what leveling kit you go with. 

This true even with a slight level like a 1.5"?

I'm keeping the stock 20" wheels and tires - at least for now lol -

You'd want to check with the manufacturer of the UCA kit... Most I have looked at require a wheel with more offset, or spacers.

 

I have stamped steel control arms, and I ended up pulling my 2" MotoFab kit because I got wheel rub on the UCA at lock, and unfortunately there are situations in my daily driving life where I end up hitting wheel lock, I didn't want to destroy the back of my wheels or front edge of my UCA.

 

I ended up trading in my original 2017 Sierra Elevation for a 17 Sierra SLE Z71, still had stamped control arms. I plan on waiting to do any lifting at all until I acquire a UCA kit and new wheels. YMMV of course, but I don't know if you'll get what you want without a new wheel kit if you go with an aftermarket UCA kit.

TNAZ Enthusiast

TNAZ

Posted
Posted (edited)
On ‎8‎/‎18‎/‎2018 at 8:21 AM, LoweredKlass said:

Hey guys,

Just picked up a 2018 1500, and looking to level the front a bit, like 1.5" to 2" tops

From what I've read so far, it sounds like with the newer models, you should be replacing the uca, regardless of what leveling kit you go with. 

This true even with a slight level like a 1.5"?

I'm keeping the stock 20" wheels and tires - at least for now lol -

If you are certain you only want 1.5 to 2 inches of lift, then you could go with the Bilstein 5100 struts which do not require any UCA change and actually work within the existing front suspension geometry better than any other solution I know of for staying as close to "stock" as possible and minimizing chances of voiding your factory warranties related to the suspension.  Spacers and new UCAs are well know to GM and they are cracking down on them a bit as mentioned in one of their "KB" bulletins (EDIT:  not "KB" bulletins , meant to say "TSB" and "PIT" bulletins).  The 5100 struts on your model truck will give from 1.5 to 2 inches of lift (they advertise "up to 1.85" inches).  I got 1.5 inches with mine set on the highest level (they have different height adjustments).  Others are getting 2 inches of lift but all are getting between 1.5 and 2 inches like you want.  Further, the 5100s solve the problem of driving off-road and taking dips/speedbumps way better than the stock shocks.   If you do the struts in the front, I would also do the rear 5100 shocks, which is what I did, and love them compared to stock.  I did mine at 4WheelParts (total cost about $750 for everything installed and the final wheel alignment.

Edited by TNAZ
  • Like 1
jgraves13 Enthusiast

jgraves13

Posted
Posted
If you are certain you only want 1.5 to 2 inches of lift, then you could go with the Bilstein 5100 struts which do not require any UCA change and actually work within the existing front suspension geometry better than any other solution I know of for staying as close to "stock" as possible and minimizing chances of voiding your factory warranties related to the suspension.  Spacers and new UCAs are well know to GM and they are cracking down on them a bit as mentioned in one of their "KB" bulletins.  The 5100 struts on your model truck will give from 1.5 to 2 inches of lift (they advertise "up to 1.85" inches).  I got 1.5 inches with mine set on the highest level (they have different height adjustments).  Others are getting 2 inches of lift but all are getting between 1.5 and 2 inches like you want.  Further, the 5100s solve the problem of driving off-road and taking dips/speedbumps way better than the stock shocks.   If you do the struts in the front, I would also do the rear 5100 shocks, which is what I did, and love them compared to stock.  I did mine at 4WheelParts (total cost about $750 for everything installed and the final wheel alignment.


Do you have a link to the kb bulletin? And are you saying the bilsteins wouldn't fall under the crack down?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TNAZ Enthusiast

TNAZ

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, jgraves13 said:

 


Do you have a link to the kb bulletin? And are you saying the bilsteins wouldn't fall under the crack down?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Sorry, I meant to say "PIT" and "TSB", not "KB" (KB is for Microsoft Windows issues).  Anyway, it is "PIT5403B" and "TSB 09-00-89-016E".  The PIT has the real specifics.  I am a factory warranty nut and always have been because dealer work is so costly and parts these days are insane.  However, I really wanted to do some "light" modifications to make the truck more usable and better looking.  I think that technically, even the Bilstein strut would void the suspension warranty in the front if a dealer wanted a way out--this includes bigger tires too and rims with non-factory offsets (I put 33" on versus the 31.5 inch stock tires).  It probably depends on the dealer and the issue--I just don't know the enforcement frequency.  I have not been challenged yet but my thought is that I won't be having issues with the front suspension because if the Bilstein sales pitch is true, I won't be stressing suspension parts like ball joints because it works within the same exact stock spring and does not in anyway overextend the stock suspension (does preload the spring though)--this was the only product I was willing to take the calculated risk on and I saved the original struts just in case.  An even safer play would be to get a GM dealer aftermarket department to put these on--especially the dealer you bought the truck from if possible.  If you go back to the same dealer for work I think they would be more lenient and I suspect that is how most guys are doing this to be super safe or maybe it is rarely enforced.  An even safer play is to get the dealer to add the parts during the new truck purchase--that is my plan for future trucks.  

 

 

 

PIT.PNG

TSB.PNG

Edited by TNAZ
  • Like 1
Perseus Enthusiast

Perseus

Posted
Posted

I have a '14 I'm using a rc 2" front level and it sits dead nuts level at 38 1/2" front and rear. I'm looking to do the zone add a leaf in the rear to help with sag and give me some rake back. Anyone running this set up give some insight to how much higher the rear will sit and maybe post a few photos?? Thanks in advance pic is my leveled truck with about 1800lbs in the bed. ac45bdb3c0f8ba3e9c7ec48890841be9.jpg

Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk

jguzek Enthusiast

jguzek

Posted
Posted

2018 Denali with magneride. Readylift Tubular upper control arm swap and 2.25 strut spacer Leveling. Stock rear and stock 22 wheels. Love the new stance. I still have a slight rake which is perfect for the occasional tow or heavy load.

The tubular upper control arms have a thicker profile than the stock stamped UCAs. As a result I did not need relocation brackets for the magnaride sensors.

The stiffness and ride are unchanged.c354a67ae221d0e06e9c7f398b56b30c.jpg8cf39f4bf2c3c4037c93e7331015199e.jpgfa0ecf95f152c91a818605a9b845a4a4.jpgfd100e0d2155ae641b592dc2a693c29e.jpg

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Shredder15 Enthusiast

Shredder15

Posted
Posted (edited)
20 hours ago, Perseus said:

I have a '14 I'm using a rc 2" front level and it sits dead nuts level at 38 1/2" front and rear. I'm looking to do the zone add a leaf in the rear to help with sag and give me some rake back. Anyone running this set up give some insight to how much higher the rear will sit and maybe post a few photos?? Thanks in advance pic is my leveled truck with about 1800lbs in the bed. ac45bdb3c0f8ba3e9c7ec48890841be9.jpg

Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk
 

I had an add a leaf from a different company that was very good. It raised the rear 1 1/4”.

 

FYI, the front had a TGC 2.5” level in this pic. I eventually went to a 2” level and 1” rear block because I didn’t like the loss of factory ride and decreased range level of travel in the front at 2.5”. The increased clearance I ended up with is exactly what I wanted and I’m happy with the setup with the bigger LTZ stock wheels and tires. 

 

 

 

IMG_7248.jpg

Edited by Shredder15
Cropped pic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,100 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      My truck is a ¾ ton but my placard also says 80 for the rear tires, I think I might have the upgraded suspension to the 3500 series maybe.   I put my air down to 60 and the light was still on, and there was no way I was putting over 60 psi in the rear empty and not towing because I knew the actual number Toyo gave me and I didn't wanna ruin the center of my tires!   And you actually can change it in the settings from metric or is and it will show kph or mph then when you go into your tire settings it will be either psi or kpa, but it would be nice to just change it directly on the tire psi page 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...