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2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

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Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
No rubbing on normal driving as of yet (have not had any chance for articulation). Pleased with size of 285s
3e388b0a96fd7276f8057a19be214ca1.jpga7f80b6d8eda0c3eca96b8029e4afe2d.jpg528880f7c771920802d3faa77eadbff7.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Very [emoji106][emoji2532]


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mrskiff Enthusiast

mrskiff

Posted
Posted
No rubbing on normal driving as of yet (have not had any chance for articulation). Pleased with size of 285s
3e388b0a96fd7276f8057a19be214ca1.jpga7f80b6d8eda0c3eca96b8029e4afe2d.jpg528880f7c771920802d3faa77eadbff7.jpg


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You shouldnt rub ever. I have k02s in 285/65 as well on a 2.25 level with -12 offset wheels and i hardly ever rub.

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TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
You shouldnt rub ever. I have k02s in 285/65 as well on a 2.25 level with -12 offset wheels and i hardly ever rub.

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You’re not running stock wheels you’re running a -12 wheel and barely rubs, meaning it’s rubbing nonetheless. I think most rubbing is on 20”. My rubbing happened while locking on a full turn or while backing up.


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18SierraAT Enthusiast

18SierraAT

Posted
Posted

Im thinking of going with the RL 2.5 up front and the Motofab 2in block in the rear. The RL comes with new UCA's.

 

Im planning on putting a 1.25" spacer on the stock AT wheels and then adding 33x12.50 tires.

 

Will I need a dif drop with a 2.5 in lift? Also Ive read about 75 pages from this thread and there seems to be no clear answer...do I need new UCA's with a 2.5 upfront? From what ive read some people say yes and you shouldnt do it without it and others say its not necessary.  

frenchsquared Enthusiast

frenchsquared

Posted
Posted
On 11/4/2018 at 8:01 PM, StayInYourLayne said:

For those of you who have a 2017+ and installed 2.25" level without changing the UCAs, have you had any issues. Dealer is offering to install a ProComp kit without UCAs and keep my warranty in tact but I don't want to make the truck unsafe even if they keep the warranty. What good is a warranty if the truck is totaled? 

I put 40,000 on a 2015 in 2014 before all this complaining about upper control arms. Never had any issues at all. 

StayInYourLayne Enthusiast

StayInYourLayne

Posted
Posted
I put 40,000 on a 2015 in 2014 before all this complaining about upper control arms. Never had any issues at all. 

2014s, 2015s and early 2016s had different control arms than the late 2016s-2018s. I had a '14 leveled with spacers and no issues but the new control arms are said to have issues with levels

2018Chevyz71 New Member

2018Chevyz71

Posted
Posted (edited)

Installed Motofad 1.5” leveling kit today.  In my opinion this is how the truck should have shipped from the factory.  Ground to bottom of from fender before level, measured 36.5” after 38”.  Rear measures 39” so I have 1” of rake which is just right for the truck to sit level with a load in the bed.  

 

I was able to install the spacer blocks by just removing the sway bar links, and loosening the nuts on the top of the strut.  I did not need to remove the tie rod or spindle from the upper control arms. Total project took just over an hour in the drive way all with hand tools.

 

I debated between going with 1”/1.5”/2” and I think the 1.5” was the right choice for the look that I was going for.

 

Before and after pics of truck and CV angles.  

 

 

 

 

 

FCD3CCAA-B947-45BB-BCD0-C46FFEFECB23.jpeg

C0020299-92AA-420E-90FD-71DE28A01C51.jpeg

799D6046-4474-42EA-BE06-5B554091DF8C.jpeg

6ACDFE6B-875A-4187-9789-21C1E3711FEB.jpeg

Edited by 2018Chevyz71
  • Like 1
TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
2014s, 2015s and early 2016s had different control arms than the late 2016s-2018s. I had a '14 leveled with spacers and no issues but the new control arms are said to have issues with levels


Correct except they started with the stamped steel in some cases early 2015 causing issues almost immediately once you level. I’ve got the 18, leveled with a 2.25” up front and added a 1” onto the rear, had to buy new wheels in order to run larger tires. In a few days it’s all coming out, going with CST 4.5” lift, absolutely amazing quality lift that doesn’t widen your track once lifted. Check them out
https://cstsuspension.com/content/10-media-articles


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TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
I have an 18 with 1.75" proryde lift up front. 275/60/20 Durateacs on stocks and it rubs at full lock.
40c0c80810eeddc442accf8c93aac44c.jpg

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Exactly what happened to me, installed new wheels with a +1 offset, fixed that issue immediately. Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/60/20’s
4d647438a22af3d5f8a541c67c6a28a9.jpg


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Shredder15 Enthusiast

Shredder15

Posted
Posted
19 hours ago, 2018Chevyz71 said:

Installed Motofad 1.5” leveling kit today.  In my opinion this is how the truck should have shipped from the factory.  Ground to bottom of from fender before level, measured 36.5” after 38”.  Rear measures 39” so I have 1” of rake which is just right for the truck to sit level with a load in the bed.  

 

I was able to install the spacer blocks by just removing the sway bar links, and loosening the nuts on the top of the strut.  I did not need to remove the tie rod or spindle from the upper control arms. Total project took just over an hour in the drive way all with hand tools.

 

I debated between going with 1”/1.5”/2” and I think the 1.5” was the right choice for the look that I was going for.

 

Before and after pics of truck and CV angles.  

 

 

 

 

 

FCD3CCAA-B947-45BB-BCD0-C46FFEFECB23.jpeg

C0020299-92AA-420E-90FD-71DE28A01C51.jpeg

799D6046-4474-42EA-BE06-5B554091DF8C.jpeg

6ACDFE6B-875A-4187-9789-21C1E3711FEB.jpeg

Agree it should come that way. I worked to find the best combo Of above factory while keeping factory ride. Accomplished both with 2” under strut only TGC level kit and 2.25” block in the rear. Love the slight height difference from stock. 

100D331E-6351-4942-AA25-94B62ED0F387.jpeg

TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
It rubs very minor so I'm not extremely concerned about it

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Unlike me, with my OCD, I can’t stand having any rubbing, just makes it feel cheap to me.


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RHStansbury Enthusiast

RHStansbury

Posted
Posted

I was dead set on the readylift kit with new UCAs to level my 17, but now I'm starting to think that the Eibach Pro Truck kit might be a better option.  Anyone seen the two side by side?  Thinking that 275/65r20s or 285/60s.  Regardless, I think I'm settled on Ridge Grapplers.

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