Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I have a 2017 and have the ProComp 2.25" level. I ran it with the stock UCAs for about 20k miles without any issues. I got my 2017 in August of 2016 and none of the levels were offering replacement UCAs. I added cognito UCAs because I got them used for a good price. I'm not saying you wont have any issues but I'm not easy on my truck and the ball joints were fine when I took the stock UCAs out.

The ProComp kit is just a level and doesn't include a diff drop. It is the exact same kit as the Readylift 2.25" level just in a different box and costs less. Now Readylift is offering replacement UCAs with the kit. 7fdd87731ce40372b9d3b6d7ad7fbf8b.jpg

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk


I’ve got about 6k on my level, ordered Fox coilovers with resi’s, new Fabtech UCA’s and after lots of research, I cancelled my order and went with the 4.5” lift through CST Suspension. There are a few guys on the forum that got me turned on by it due to zero widening of the front wheel track unlike all the other brands and after many thousands of miles not one complaint. Leveling is fine for a clearing a bit larger tires but I noticed immediately after leveling with no larger tires that my truck rode rougher. This lift will put everything back but lift through spindles.


Sent from above
Posted
9 hours ago, rudyb said:

I dig it. Any rub with this setup? Are you running stock UCA? Is that a 1.5" level? Thanks

Thanks! Bilstein 5100's(front on 3rd setting, rear is stock height). Stock UCA's. Bilstein claims this is a 1.25" lift in the front, but I have a feeling it was just a bit more.

I did get some rubbing on the factory mudflaps so I took a dremel and trimmed the insides just a bit. No rubbing now.

Posted
Just 2” and 285s stock wheels. Nothing drastic

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The interesting thing about people raving about leveling is they forget to mention from mid 2015 GM started using stamped steel UCA’s, causing your tires to rub onto your trucks frame and or UCA’s. Not trying to be negative about leveling but Doing a level, it caused me to spend thousands of dollars replacing stock wheels with new +1 offset and finally larger tires (no rubbing) at a cost of approximately $3K later. At least I’m half way done on what it costs to lift a truck lol!

 

This is only experienced with my 20” wheels and tires.

 

Also forgot to mention you’ll need new shocks too for the raised height preferably Bilstein 5100’s

 

Sent from above

 

Posted
1 hour ago, TXGREEK said:


I’ve got about 6k on my level, ordered Fox coilovers with resi’s, new Fabtech UCA’s and after lots of research, I cancelled my order and went with the 4.5” lift through CST Suspension. There are a few guys on the forum that got me turned on by it due to zero widening of the front wheel track unlike all the other brands and after many thousands of miles not one complaint. Leveling is fine for a clearing a bit larger tires but I noticed immediately after leveling with no larger tires that my truck rode rougher. This lift will put everything back but lift through spindles.


Sent from above

I am in the same boat, I am currently looking into control arms or possibly doing the same CST lift too.  I don't want the headache down the road....

Posted
I am in the same boat, I am currently looking into control arms or possibly doing the same CST lift too.  I don't want the headache down the road....


Not worth the headaches, believe me. So much BS going on these forums with lies how some aren’t getting any rubbing with exact setup only to admit it soon after as “its not bad” lmao! Just spoke with the shop, haven’t received it yet from CST. I’m looking at first part of next week for install, arg!


Sent from above
Posted
 The interesting thing about people raving about leveling is they forget to mention from mid 2015 GM started using stamped steel UCA’s, causing your tires to rub onto your trucks frame and or UCA’s. Not trying to be negative about leveling but Doing a level, it caused me to spend thousands of dollars replacing stock wheels with new +1 offset and finally larger tires (no rubbing) at a cost of approximately $3K later. At least I’m half way done on what it costs to lift a truck lol!
 
This is only experienced with my 20” wheels and tires.
 
Also forgot to mention you’ll need new shocks too for the raised height preferably Bilstein 5100’s
 
Sent from above
 

Can’t imagine I’ll rub with the 285s. 32.5x11.5 should clear with 2”. I’ll report this afternoon. As far as the shocks go I’ll let it ride. Had same setup on my 14 (with 285/55 ko2s) and never thought it rode bad.
69705009de4abb2fe3659c98c2ac3629.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
 
Running a procomp lift will included diff drop which doesn’t need new UCA’s cause with a diff drop your UCA’s will be fine for a while.
 
You should look at CST suspension, much better quality and doesn’t make your track widen up front like it does with all those knuckle replacement kits such as BDS, ProComp. A couple guy on this forum brought it up and I jumped on it.
 
 
Sent from above


A diff drop and UCAs are not related. Diff drop will help your CV joints return to a more stock angle. It will do nothing in regards to the upper ball joint which is the weak point of the stamped steel arms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
22 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 


Not worth the headaches, believe me. So much BS going on these forums with lies how some aren’t getting any rubbing with exact setup only to admit it soon after as “its not bad” lmao! Just spoke with the shop, haven’t received it yet from CST. I’m looking at first part of next week for install, arg!


Sent from above

 

I hear ya..........I currently have a 3" level and am looking at control arms + a diff drop.  

 

can't wait to see pics once it's done.

Posted


A diff drop and UCAs are not related. Diff drop will help your CV joints return to a more stock angle. It will do nothing in regards to the upper ball joint which is the weak point of the stamped steel arms.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Speaking of my experience, after my 2.25” level was installed, the installer showed me that my UCA’s were not flat anymore, arched. Levels kill UCA’s!


Sent from above
Posted
 

Not trying to be negative about leveling but Doing a level, it caused me to spend thousands of dollars replacing stock wheels with new +1 offset and finally larger tires (no rubbing) at a cost of approximately $3K later. At least I’m half way done on what it costs to lift a truck lol!
 


It depends on the components selected.

It’s entirely possible to level a truck with new UCA’s, on stock wheels with larger tires, and get great ride quality.
  • Like 1
Posted

Can’t imagine I’ll rub with the 285s. 32.5x11.5 should clear with 2”. I’ll report this afternoon. As far as the shocks go I’ll let it ride. Had same setup on my 14 (with 285/55 ko2s) and never thought it rode bad.
69705009de4abb2fe3659c98c2ac3629.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



You might get slight rub with 285’s depending on tire choice.

I get very slight rubbing at full lock with my 285
Nitto Trail Grappler MT’s on stock wheels.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted

Right after I did my level I installed 275/60/20 KO2’s and they rubbed bad! Went to a Fuel+18 and still rubbed but not as bad, Only thing that worked is current setup +1 offset 20X9’s with Nitto Ridge Grapplers 285/60/20’s


Sent from above

Posted


It depends on the components selected.

It’s entirely possible to level a truck with new UCA’s, on stock wheels with larger tires, and get great ride quality.


Absolutely correct, the UCA’s play a big role in it.


Sent from above
Posted

 

 

You might get slight rub with 285’s depending on tire choice.

 

I get very slight rubbing at full lock with my 285

Nitto Trail Grappler MT’s on stock wheels.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

My 275/60/20’s on stock 20’s rubbed bad and embarrassing especially in grocery store parking lots.

Leveling over 2.25” is a money pit.

 

Sent from above

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,894
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    TopBo
    Newest Member
    TopBo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,185 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...