Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Took some new photos today. No issues at all with this setup, except wanting to go higher without cutting my truck up..

 

RC 2” front level only

33x12.5x20 tires (305/55/20) says both sizes on tire

20x9 +0 wheels

 

c116dc74a62cd39b6bd01ae1b85ae0e7.jpg203159b7c290cb5b06d5d499e149ba6c.jpgdec9eb9db3c2872c2897f47b88ebe946.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How are you not rubbing with just a 2" with 305x55's and a 0 offset? I have a 2.5" and wanting to go 35x12's with a -44 offset and from what I've read it will rub. What tires are you running?

  • Like 1
Posted

305/55 is a 33x12.5 (actually says both sizes on the tire) falken wildpeak

 

20x9 with a 0 offset

 

A lot different from the 35x12.5 that you want. As well as your offset is a lot more aggressive than mine.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

305/55 is a 33x12.5 (actually says both sizes on the tire) falken wildpeak

 

20x9 with a 0 offset

 

A lot different from the 35x12.5 that you want. As well as your offset is a lot more aggressive than mine.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I like your set up, Gives it that beefy look everyone looks for. I was planning on going to 35's but I don't think its worth the aggravation of trying to squeeze it in that square wheel well so I'm thinking of going with the 33x12.5 Atturo Trail Blade X/T (possible M/T) on a -44 offset for that stance/aggressive look. not as beefy as yours look tho.

Posted

How are you not rubbing with just a 2" with 305x55's and a 0 offset? I have a 2.5" and wanting to go 35x12's with a -44 offset and from what I've read it will rub. What tires are you running?

35s will rub on a level pretty much regardless of offset.

 

I've seen some people able to trim the fender liner and get away with it, but it still rubs from what i've heard. Never heard of anyone pulling it off successfully.

 

Biggest tires i've seen fit without rubbing are 295/70/18 nitto terra grapplers.

Posted

35s will rub on a level pretty much regardless of offset.

 

I've seen some people able to trim the fender liner and get away with it, but it still rubs from what i've heard. Never heard of anyone pulling it off successfully.

 

Biggest tires i've seen fit without rubbing are 295/70/18 nitto terra grapplers.

I've been brain melting reading this thread over and over trying to find a the best set up and I have come across on another forum someone fitting 35's with a 20x9 on just a level and he had to do a lot of trimming and cutting. But with all the research over the weeks I have been able to stash a couple more bucks so I can now pull the trigger on a set of aftermarket wheels lol. I don't mind the tie back of felt I just don't want to have to cut into a fender at all and definitely don't want wheel spacers. I know the 295's will fit for sure with no issues. I don't plan on going off roading at all so I don't mind a snug fit with the 305's at a -44 offset.

Posted (edited)

I've been brain melting reading this thread over and over trying to find a the best set up and I have come across on another forum someone fitting 35's with a 20x9 on just a level and he had to do a lot of trimming and cutting. But with all the research over the weeks I have been able to stash a couple more bucks so I can now pull the trigger on a set of aftermarket wheels lol. I don't mind the tie back of felt I just don't want to have to cut into a fender at all and definitely don't want wheel spacers. I know the 295's will fit for sure with no issues. I don't plan on going off roading at all so I don't mind a snug fit with the 305's at a -44 offset.

A -44 offset is going to be pretty far out there. I haven't paid much attention to that particular offset, but i would imagine you might have rubbing with a lot of different tire sizes on that much of a negative offset.

 

Maybe someone else can chime in and help out with experience or findings?

 

The 295/70/18s i was referring to were on +18 offset wheels, the -44 will stick out probably 2.5-3 inches more than the +18 offset.

Edited by tyrich88
Posted

I know the 295's will fit for sure with no issues.

 

Bad assumption. With a level, you can fit 33x11 as long as you stay 0 to stock offset. That's it...no magic makes it any better. Anything bigger is going to hit something when in a parking lot.....and even worse if you are ever in an off-angle situation.

 

-44 All bets are off. Very few people running bro-dozer offset like that so you will have very little data to go on.

 

Even 4.5 lifts recommend no larger than 33x12.5 because they know you will want your truck to go more than just straight.

Posted

 

Bad assumption. With a level, you can fit 33x11 as long as you stay 0 to stock offset. That's it...no magic makes it any better. Anything bigger is going to hit something when in a parking lot.....and even worse if you are ever in an off-angle situation.

 

-44 All bets are off. Very few people running bro-dozer offset like that so you will have very little data to go on.

 

Even 4.5 lifts recommend no larger than 33x12.5 because they know you will want your truck to go more than just straight.

I cant remember the thread I saw it on another forum but if I can find it I'll post it. He had a 2500 with a level and had the -44 wrapped in 33x12.5's with minor rubbing. I don't know what the ratio of stock height between the 1500's and 2500's are so that may of played a factor in it as well.

Posted

this thread is great for the practical people asking questions and getting personal opinions and knowledge but I also use customwheeloffset.com as reference to different tire/wheel setups and visuals too. For example here's a 14' 1500 on 33x12.5's with a +1 offset on a 2" RC level and in the details he claims there is no rubbing and had to do no trimming. https://www.customwheeloffset.com/truck-show/wheel-offset-gallery/9019/wheel-offset-2014-chevrolet-silverado-1500-aggressive-1-outside-fender-leveling-kit-custom-rims

Posted

this thread is great for the practical people asking questions and getting personal opinions and knowledge but I also use customwheeloffset.com as reference to different tire/wheel setups and visuals too. For example here's a 14' 1500 on 33x12.5's with a +1 offset on a 2" RC level and in the details he claims there is no rubbing and had to do no trimming. https://www.customwheeloffset.com/truck-show/wheel-offset-gallery/9019/wheel-offset-2014-chevrolet-silverado-1500-aggressive-1-outside-fender-leveling-kit-custom-rims

but that is NOT a 35x12 which is what your original question is (if i'm not mistaken)....there is a huge difference between 33x12 and 35x12...maybe i missed something...

Posted

I cant remember the thread I saw it on another forum but if I can find it I'll post it. He had a 2500 with a level and had the -44 wrapped in 33x12.5's with minor rubbing. I don't know what the ratio of stock height between the 1500's and 2500's are so that may of played a factor in it as well.

A 2500 with a level will have about as much fender clearance as a 1500 with a 4" lift....so if that guy was rubbing with -44 and 33x12.5....then there's no way you'll clear a 35" without cutting a lot of metal. I don't think you'll even be able to clear a 33x12.5 and -44 with a 2.5" lift....without cutting metal.

Posted

this thread is great for the practical people asking questions and getting personal opinions and knowledge but I also use customwheeloffset.com as reference to different tire/wheel setups and visuals too. For example here's a 14' 1500 on 33x12.5's with a +1 offset on a 2" RC level and in the details he claims there is no rubbing and had to do no trimming. https://www.customwheeloffset.com/truck-show/wheel-offset-gallery/9019/wheel-offset-2014-chevrolet-silverado-1500-aggressive-1-outside-fender-leveling-kit-custom-rims

There was a google doc link floating around with a spreadsheet for members to post their trucks, suspension mods and wheels/tires with results but it didn’t stay very up to date. If there was a more streamlined way to incorporate this into the thread it would save members a lot of searching and scouring these pages. Possibly cut down on the “hey will this setup rub?” posts by new members.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

this thread is great for the practical people asking questions and getting personal opinions and knowledge but I also use customwheeloffset.com as reference to different tire/wheel setups and visuals too. For example here's a 14' 1500 on 33x12.5's with a +1 offset on a 2" RC level and in the details he claims there is no rubbing and had to do no trimming. https://www.customwheeloffset.com/truck-show/wheel-offset-gallery/9019/wheel-offset-2014-chevrolet-silverado-1500-aggressive-1-outside-fender-leveling-kit-custom-rims

I would say if you want tires any bigger than stock, you're way safer going with a less extreme offset.

Those -44s will stick out A LOT and you're VERY limited on what you can run without chopping a bunch of metal.

 

stock offset (around +25) all the way out to 0 offset are much safer and the 0 offset doesn't give quite as much stance but still looks awesome.

Posted

 

Finally got around to snapping these pics. Its tough to really get a good angle at it, but there is zero rub. I have about a 1/2" of clearance. It seems like now that the GM wheel wells are a tad more boxy than earlier models, we also have a bit more room to hit bumps while turning/in reverse also. My driveway is pretty steep, and when backing out at an angle, I still dont rub at full lock. That being said, Im pretty confident in saying I found the absolute limit as far as tire size goes for just a 2" level and stock wheels.

 

Photobucket blanked out all your pictures! Any update on the 305/65r18s? Wearing good? Any off-road condition problems with rubbing?

Posted

There was a google doc link floating around with a spreadsheet for members to post their trucks, suspension mods and wheels/tires with results but it didn’t stay very up to date. If there was a more streamlined way to incorporate this into the thread it would save members a lot of searching and scouring these pages. Possibly cut down on the “hey will this setup rub?” posts by new members.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Here you go! I was the one that started it, it had some traction early and then died out.

 

Form to add your info is here

 

Data is here

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...