Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

JSB81 Enthusiast

JSB81

Posted
Posted
On 3/8/2018 at 7:56 PM, 6.2_GMC_DEN said:

Front View.jpg

2 Level Bilsteins.jpg

Do you have any vibration like in the floor when in 4 wheel auto

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

JSB81 Enthusiast

JSB81

Posted
Posted

I can’t be the only one has the vibration issue with a leveling kit out there! Like I said my ‘17 denali was perfect with a rc 2” leveling kit. My 18 denali shakes under a load. ESP in 4 wheel drive. Had rc 2.5 and currently has readylift 1.5 with factory block in back. Both have shake issues. Really regretting my good buy on the 18 now ??  I guess if there is anyone else that had this issue, I’m curious what was done if anything to fix issue. Would really hate to go back to stock

texasaggies16 Enthusiast

texasaggies16

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, JSB81 said:

I can’t be the only one has the vibration issue with a leveling kit out there! Like I said my ‘17 denali was perfect with a rc 2” leveling kit. My 18 denali shakes under a load. ESP in 4 wheel drive. Had rc 2.5 and currently has readylift 1.5 with factory block in back. Both have shake issues. Really regretting my good buy on the 18 now ??  I guess if there is anyone else that had this issue, I’m curious what was done if anything to fix issue. Would really hate to go back to stock

Why did you go from a 17 to a 18? So without the level theres no shake?

JSB81 Enthusiast

JSB81

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, texasaggies16 said:

Why did you go from a 17 to a 18? So without the level theres no shake?

Honesty the dealer called me and gave me an awesome deal. I really like this body style so I thought why not have the newest in this style I could get. Now I really wish I wouldn’t have. Yes without the level everything is fine. 

MOhunter92 Enthusiast

MOhunter92

Posted
Posted

5aa83e600af1e7412e496ebc31e776b6.jpg

2.5 rough country, seems like I didn’t get a full 2 inches of lift. Front I remember was about 36 1/2 and after kit I’m at 38 1/2. I had a shit ton of rake the back was at 39 1/2 and now it sits just under 40 1/2. Wheels and tires this upcoming Saturday throwing on 285/55r20 ridge grapplers on 20x10 xd 820 grenades


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Devond13 Enthusiast

Devond13

Posted
Posted

After looking around for weeks I went with 2.5” motofab leveling kit. I was lucky enough to have a 2014 GMC Sierra Denali before magneride or else that would have definitely cut down on my options. The place I got my wheels and tires had this thing installed in about an hour and 15 minutes. I love the simplicity of just a spacer on top. And so far the ride is same as stock. 

Jaime Wawatusi Enthusiast

Jaime Wawatusi

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, Devond13 said:

After looking around for weeks I went with 2.5” motofab leveling kit. I was lucky enough to have a 2014 GMC Sierra Denali before magneride or else that would have definitely cut down on my options. The place I got my wheels and tires had this thing installed in about an hour and 15 minutes. I love the simplicity of just a spacer on top. And so far the ride is same as stock. 

 

 

Why would it cut down on your options? 

 

 

I have the 2017 with the suspension maxx 2.5. all you have to do is have the dealer "re-zero" the magnaride in the computer. 

math_10silverado Enthusiast

math_10silverado

Posted
Posted (edited)

i just bought a rc 2.5 in lift and plaining to instal only the 2 in front until i get bigger tire... on the 2.5in lift instruction they does say to unplug the electric power stearing but on the 2in lift instruction yes... does i need too or not????

Edited by math_10silverado
MOhunter92 Enthusiast

MOhunter92

Posted
Posted
i just bought a rc 2.5 in lift and plaining to instal only the 2 in front until i get bigger tire... on the 2.5in lift instruction they does say to unplug the electric power stearing but on the 2in lift instruction yes... does i need too or not????


I didn’t do it because the clips were very fragile and where they plug into the electric power steering is a fragile area I could tell I was going to break if I kept trying to unplug them. I got one off but the other two plugs were not going off without breaking. I unplugged the battery and had no issues. You just need to make sure you support your lower control arm and knuckle after you break loose the upper ball joint and unbolt the ABS line otherwise it will snap. I couldn’t believe it wasn’t in the instructions to do that.

Just keep an eye on all brake lines and abs lines and you will be fine, I installed the 2.5 inch RC yesterday took about 3 1/2 hours for the front and rear.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
math_10silverado Enthusiast

math_10silverado

Posted
Posted

im not removing the ball join i already instaled the rc 2in on my old 2007 and didn remove them ill try again if its still work only by removing the sway bar link 

MOhunter92 Enthusiast

MOhunter92

Posted
Posted
im not removing the ball join i already instaled the rc 2in on my old 2007 and didn remove them ill try again if its still work only by removing the sway bar link 


You have to unless you only want to do the bottom 2 inch, in that case why get the 2.5 kit.?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,962
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    contrabombarde
    Newest Member
    contrabombarde
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,407 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Some clarification may help with some of these issues.   - Rev Industries is/was the division of BAK (now Realtruck) that makes covers under the OEM names.  So if you see one with a Ford logo on it, or if you are buying the GM Accessories cover, you are essentially buying a BAK G2 cover with different branding.   - Rev Industries now markets under RealTruck "Advantage."   - As of May 1, 2025, the Advantage covers now have a 5 year warranty.  Anything before that was a 36/36K warranty.   - Parts for the covers are available from Realtruck or BAK.  The email address to reach them is [email protected] or you can call them at 818-365-9000   - If the entire cover has to be replaced, you have to go through your local GM dealer.  Service dept opens an RO, notes the damage and submits it as a warranty claim.  Keep your paperwork handy so they can confirm when you purchased it and it's within the warranty timeframe.  Once the warranty claim is approved, Parts orders the replacement cover.  When it arrives at the dealership, service will remove and install the new one for free as labor is included under warranty.   - The Advantage covers are not the latest and greatest Gen 3 covers.  They still use the old school clamps, elevator bolts, etc...If you want the newer technology, consider buying your cover in the aftermarket world.  That way, if you have an issue you can deal directly with the manufacturer.   - Finally, RealTruck has a program with many of their authorized dealers that doubles the warranty to 10 years if the authorized dealer does the install.     Hope this helps.
    • parthery
      Upgrade to a 2026 AT4 with the 3.0L Duramax

      By parthery · Posted

      Welcome to the group!  My '22 just crossed 150K miles.  Runs perfectly.  Oil pump belt will be done in the next 30 days or so and onward hopefully for another 150K.  Love the truck.
    • richard wysong
      Needing this part.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Still looks like a rivet to me in the pics, I don't see a nut and none of the pics show the head of the screw. But if you says so.....
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Thanks for all the help so far!   I did try right from 2026 right down to 2021, and only from 2023 down lets me select the option for tire psi change, but I get the vehicle not supported error!   I'll definitely try it under Chevrolet after work today, and I'll get the sensor number from gm for my truck tire sensors. And I'll let you know if it works for me under Chevrolet!   And if that doesn't work, I'm going to guess that what @Atlas said about maybe I have a different body control module could be true!  
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      From where I'm sitting this sounds like a compatibility problem. I'm assuming the 2007 was a 900-series truck, and not an 800-series (they were sold side-by-side in dealerships that model year), since it starts and runs.   This is why I HATE post-2006 vehicles. Everything becomes a huge problem when you try to keep the thing running for longer than the manufacturer has designed it to.    I can't remember when Global-A architecture started - either '10 or '11. For your sake, you had better hope it's '11, or you're going to be spending some BIG money to correct this cluster-eff. That's something you need to find out before doing anything else. You may have several computers bricked ... but the fact that it runs tells me you MIGHT be ok here.     EDIT: Just did a quick refresher. You're screwed. This is Global-A. The 2 systems are NOT compatible in the slightest. Once you get the correct engine in there that IS compatible, you're going to need to see how many computers are locked. Absolute NIGHTMARE to straighten out, too. Your buddy might be better off cutting his losses and finding something else.   Welcome to post-2006 vehicle electronics. This is why I quit the industry, and drive nothing built after 1994. This stuff takes all the fun out of wrenching!  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...