Jump to content

Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

MotoMedic

By MotoMedic
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Wow. 170 for that..nice. I thought custom boxes were near the 500 are. Well guess I'll play w this jl and later sell it get a custom built. that is super nice. Heck I'm pretty handy I may try building that on my own. Doesn't seem to complicated. What is the internal volume for each woofer. Do you have the dimensions on that if you don't mind if you have them. Now that I think more I may try my hand on it.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  • Replies 513
  • Created
  • Last Reply
AhuraPro Enthusiast

AhuraPro

Posted
Posted

Wow. 170 for that..nice. I thought custom boxes were near the 500 are. Well guess I'll play w this jl and later sell it get a custom built. that is super nice. Heck I'm pretty handy I may try building that on my own. Doesn't seem to complicated. What is the internal volume for each woofer. Do you have the dimensions on that if you don't mind if you have them. Now that I think more I may try my hand on it.

 

I don't have the dims since I paid someone else to make it, the shop was surprised they got a DVC in there so I think they might be excited to market more of these.

 

Now the volume is huge actually since it clears the transmission hump I'd say it has 30% more than prefab boxes that have separate chambers for single voice coil subs.. Those are generally .6 cuft per chamber so I'm going to say the 2 subs share 1.8-2.0 cuft of airspace.

 

One thing to keep in mind.. The subs have to breathe, can't stress that enough..

Racinghart03 Enthusiast

Racinghart03

Posted
Posted

After suffering unto my OCD and making sure I had all the info I pulled the trigger and installed the JL MicroSUb 10 under the passenger seat. I wanted to give you all the info I had in hopes it makes your lives easier and easy to find in one place. This is for the BOSE W SUBWOOFER install. Power tapped at battery and run down passenger side (plenty of locations so take your pick). Ground anywhere. I pulled the speaker level source from the RF output of the Bose Amp. (Yellow+ and Yellow and Black - Pins 2 and 6 at X1) Cleaner and more balanced EQ slope with no chime. To disable the ANC cut The Violet and Blue wire into the Amp at (pin 2 connector X3). This cuts the generated signal from the PCM to signal the Bose amp of engine RPMs. No rpm signal to the amp, no noise cancellation. Some guys were cutting the mic wires and covering the grills for the mics. I feel the method I used nips it in the bud and handles what needs to handled. I have obnoxious tires on with a fair amount of noise and have no issues with the ACN when driving. I ran the level knob up the drivers side and put it next to the light switch. Hope this helps as It took me quite some time to gather all of this info. Enjoy!!! With the right know how...this install should take less than an hour. I will probably add another in a month or so. Once I get bored :)

 

Speakers.jpg

 

Anc.jpg

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Any videos. I know sound quality kids sjcks but...me and crew1 have the power wedge+. Yours is ported correct? Mine gets down but thinking ported might have been the way to go. Pics and video or it never happened..lol

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Racinghart03 Enthusiast

Racinghart03

Posted
Posted

Any pics of the microsub?

Sure. Here ya go.

 

Any videos. I know sound quality kids sjcks but...me and crew1 have the power wedge+. Yours is ported correct? Mine gets down but thinking ported might have been the way to go. Pics and video or it never happened..lol

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

No. I should have mentioned that. I went with a sealed box. Input sensitivity at about 11:00 on the dial and the EQ set at about 80Hz and the bass knob centered for flexibility both ways. I have the bass at full crank on the factory system. Sounds good enough for now. i will prob do something larger down the road. I am used to 1000w monoblocks running big 12's so this is fine for the time being but I am thinking my bass addiction will get the best of me at some point down the road. The box actually fits in there really well.If anyone is looking for a fast easy way to add the bass you would like the Bose system SHOULD have....you cant beat this with a stick.

 

Sub1.jpg

 

sub2.jpg

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Looks good. Same side as mine. Try turning it upside down and putting something under the front to get the grill off the carpet. I found down firing sounded much better. I am actually doing measurements for a second console between the rear seat and console. Will have a little over 1 cu ft and will fit my 12 in there. Still able to have 3 ppl in back and removable. Gonna test the output of the 12 soon just to see if its even worth it but I think it will be

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Racinghart03 Enthusiast

Racinghart03

Posted
Posted

Looks good. Same side as mine. Try turning it upside down and putting something under the front to get the grill off the carpet. I found down firing sounded much better. I am actually doing measurements for a second console between the rear seat and console. Will have a little over 1 cu ft and will fit my 12 in there. Still able to have 3 ppl in back and removable. Gonna test the output of the 12 soon just to see if its even worth it but I think it will be

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

Did you space up just the front of the box or all four corners to have even space under the grill? I wish I had room for a twelve under there. It pains me to sell my Image Dynamics ID Max 12 go but there was just no way that was fitting with a mounting depth of over 8 inches. I had that with a Zapco 1100.1 in my last truck and that thing blurred my vision when it hit. I was on the fence about putting the Zapco in this but it would have been far more power than I needed for what I could fit in there.

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

I just proped the front 2 corners just so are could escape. Had a little more rumble. OK so I just tested one 12. A Kenwood KFC w12ps. This is a affordable sub but nothing close to a sundown or soundqubed. With just the one Kenwood I was blown away. Facing down it hammers being right near you. So I will build my box and put Kenwood in. Then when spring comes I go for soundqubed. Should sound amazing.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

ROLNSLO Enthusiast

ROLNSLO

Posted
Posted

I finished installing a Kicker Hideaway sub under the driver's seat last night but apparently don't have a nut that fits the open post on the accessory block on top of the battery for power. I stopped by the parts department on the way to work this morning and GM doesn't list that nut as an available part or have a size listed, only the entire accessory block with the 3 nuts already included.

 

Does anyone happen to know what size nut fits on the 3rd post of the accessory block on the battery?

 

I figured I'd pick one up on way home from work if someone knows the size otherwise I'll pull one of the existing nuts and run to Home Depot tonight when I get back to my truck.

 

 

Pic from someone else's post:

 

20140520_135232.jpg

AhuraPro Enthusiast

AhuraPro

Posted
Posted

WTF is that angle iron bolted in there??

 

I finished installing a Kicker Hideaway sub under the driver's seat last night but apparently don't have a nut that fits the open post on the accessory block on top of the battery for power. I stopped by the parts department on the way to work this morning and GM doesn't list that nut as an available part or have a size listed, only the entire accessory block with the 3 nuts already included.

 

Does anyone happen to know what size nut fits on the 3rd post of the accessory block on the battery?

 

I figured I'd pick one up on way home from work if someone knows the size otherwise I'll pull one of the existing nuts and run to Home Depot tonight when I get back to my truck.

 

 

Pic from someone else's post:

 

20140520_135232.jpg

crewl1 Enthusiast

crewl1

Posted
Posted

I finished installing a Kicker Hideaway sub under the driver's seat last night but apparently don't have a nut that fits the open post on the accessory block on top of the battery for power. I stopped by the parts department on the way to work this morning and GM doesn't list that nut as an available part or have a size listed, only the entire accessory block with the 3 nuts already included.

 

Does anyone happen to know what size nut fits on the 3rd post of the accessory block on the battery?

 

I figured I'd pick one up on way home from work if someone knows the size otherwise I'll pull one of the existing nuts and run to Home Depot tonight when I get back to my truck

Sorry I didn't note the nut size but I did like you, took one off and went to homedepot.

It's Metric

ROLNSLO Enthusiast

ROLNSLO

Posted
Posted

Thanks. I'll pick one up tonight and post the size, in case anyone else is looking for it in the future.

 

 

UPDATE: M8-1.25 is the correct nut size. If you are at the autoparts store, you can get the Dorman 982-008 part number, hex flanged nuts, automotive class 10, which are what the OE ones are. Hope that saves someone some time on your own sub project.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      AFM Experience

      By KARNUT · Posted

      The problem with failure rates or increase failures are there’s people who don’t have a problem. What are you doing wrong they say. We had 4 5.7 GM diesel’s in the family when they came out. One was flawless. My uncle who happened to be the most abusive. Early rotary engines were known to use oil. I abused my first car so bad in six months I replaced the clutch, transmission and rear end. It didn’t use oil. My brother in law has a 2013 Tahoe and an older Yukon. The Yukon has 280K miles. The Tahoe around 175K. He runs them to about 300K. If his lifters fail before that time he would consider it a failure. My Hondas, I know people hate it when I mention them. Identical engines. One with cylinder deactivation one doesn’t have it. One shudders when the eco light goes on or off. Cylinder deactivation. But wait! According to the web. It can happen with lock up too. So now people in the know are changing the oil and transmission fluid more often. Then you read it could be a programing issue. So what do you do? There’s lots of money involved. I see three ways to deal with it. One only works if you don’t drive lots of miles. Lease, never get out of warranty. Or only buy older vehicles with a good track record. They all have bad runs. Usually when there’s a change. Even Toyota and Honda. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      AFM Experience

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • SwitchBladeSierra
      14-18 Sierra 1500 Heated Steering Wheel Help

      By SwitchBladeSierra · Posted

      UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • newdude
      Seems to be Missing a lot of Updates

      By newdude · Posted

      GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Blade8971
      Upgrade to a 2026 AT4 with the 3.0L Duramax

      By Blade8971 · Posted

      Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...