Adding Aftermarket Sub/Amp

Jeff5347 · January 4, 2016

Wow. 170 for that..nice. I thought custom boxes were near the 500 are. Well guess I'll play w this jl and later sell it get a custom built. that is super nice. Heck I'm pretty handy I may try building that on my own. Doesn't seem to complicated. What is the internal volume for each woofer. Do you have the dimensions on that if you don't mind if you have them. Now that I think more I may try my hand on it.

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AhuraPro · January 4, 2016

Wow. 170 for that..nice. I thought custom boxes were near the 500 are. Well guess I'll play w this jl and later sell it get a custom built. that is super nice. Heck I'm pretty handy I may try building that on my own. Doesn't seem to complicated. What is the internal volume for each woofer. Do you have the dimensions on that if you don't mind if you have them. Now that I think more I may try my hand on it.

I don't have the dims since I paid someone else to make it, the shop was surprised they got a DVC in there so I think they might be excited to market more of these.

Now the volume is huge actually since it clears the transmission hump I'd say it has 30% more than prefab boxes that have separate chambers for single voice coil subs.. Those are generally .6 cuft per chamber so I'm going to say the 2 subs share 1.8-2.0 cuft of airspace.

One thing to keep in mind.. The subs have to breathe, can't stress that enough..

Racinghart03 · January 9, 2016

After suffering unto my OCD and making sure I had all the info I pulled the trigger and installed the JL MicroSUb 10 under the passenger seat. I wanted to give you all the info I had in hopes it makes your lives easier and easy to find in one place. This is for the BOSE W SUBWOOFER install. Power tapped at battery and run down passenger side (plenty of locations so take your pick). Ground anywhere. I pulled the speaker level source from the RF output of the Bose Amp. (Yellow+ and Yellow and Black - Pins 2 and 6 at X1) Cleaner and more balanced EQ slope with no chime. To disable the ANC cut The Violet and Blue wire into the Amp at (pin 2 connector X3). This cuts the generated signal from the PCM to signal the Bose amp of engine RPMs. No rpm signal to the amp, no noise cancellation. Some guys were cutting the mic wires and covering the grills for the mics. I feel the method I used nips it in the bud and handles what needs to handled. I have obnoxious tires on with a fair amount of noise and have no issues with the ACN when driving. I ran the level knob up the drivers side and put it next to the light switch. Hope this helps as It took me quite some time to gather all of this info. Enjoy!!! With the right know how...this install should take less than an hour. I will probably add another in a month or so. Once I get bored

tmoneyr007 · January 9, 2016

Any pics of the microsub?

Jeff5347 · January 10, 2016

Any videos. I know sound quality kids sjcks but...me and crew1 have the power wedge+. Yours is ported correct? Mine gets down but thinking ported might have been the way to go. Pics and video or it never happened..lol

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Racinghart03 · January 11, 2016

Any pics of the microsub?

Sure. Here ya go.

Any videos. I know sound quality kids sjcks but...me and crew1 have the power wedge+. Yours is ported correct? Mine gets down but thinking ported might have been the way to go. Pics and video or it never happened..lol

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No. I should have mentioned that. I went with a sealed box. Input sensitivity at about 11:00 on the dial and the EQ set at about 80Hz and the bass knob centered for flexibility both ways. I have the bass at full crank on the factory system. Sounds good enough for now. i will prob do something larger down the road. I am used to 1000w monoblocks running big 12's so this is fine for the time being but I am thinking my bass addiction will get the best of me at some point down the road. The box actually fits in there really well.If anyone is looking for a fast easy way to add the bass you would like the Bose system SHOULD have....you cant beat this with a stick.

Jeff5347 · January 11, 2016

Looks good. Same side as mine. Try turning it upside down and putting something under the front to get the grill off the carpet. I found down firing sounded much better. I am actually doing measurements for a second console between the rear seat and console. Will have a little over 1 cu ft and will fit my 12 in there. Still able to have 3 ppl in back and removable. Gonna test the output of the 12 soon just to see if its even worth it but I think it will be

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GMC-AT · January 11, 2016

great info above from racinghart03 for anyone that has ANC.

Double cab owners thinking about adding a sub look here - http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/181394-2014-double-cab-sub-woofer-amp/

Racinghart03 · January 11, 2016

Looks good. Same side as mine. Try turning it upside down and putting something under the front to get the grill off the carpet. I found down firing sounded much better. I am actually doing measurements for a second console between the rear seat and console. Will have a little over 1 cu ft and will fit my 12 in there. Still able to have 3 ppl in back and removable. Gonna test the output of the 12 soon just to see if its even worth it but I think it will be

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Did you space up just the front of the box or all four corners to have even space under the grill? I wish I had room for a twelve under there. It pains me to sell my Image Dynamics ID Max 12 go but there was just no way that was fitting with a mounting depth of over 8 inches. I had that with a Zapco 1100.1 in my last truck and that thing blurred my vision when it hit. I was on the fence about putting the Zapco in this but it would have been far more power than I needed for what I could fit in there.

Jeff5347 · January 11, 2016

I just proped the front 2 corners just so are could escape. Had a little more rumble. OK so I just tested one 12. A Kenwood KFC w12ps. This is a affordable sub but nothing close to a sundown or soundqubed. With just the one Kenwood I was blown away. Facing down it hammers being right near you. So I will build my box and put Kenwood in. Then when spring comes I go for soundqubed. Should sound amazing.

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ROLNSLO · January 11, 2016

I finished installing a Kicker Hideaway sub under the driver's seat last night but apparently don't have a nut that fits the open post on the accessory block on top of the battery for power. I stopped by the parts department on the way to work this morning and GM doesn't list that nut as an available part or have a size listed, only the entire accessory block with the 3 nuts already included.

Does anyone happen to know what size nut fits on the 3rd post of the accessory block on the battery?

I figured I'd pick one up on way home from work if someone knows the size otherwise I'll pull one of the existing nuts and run to Home Depot tonight when I get back to my truck.

Pic from someone else's post:

AhuraPro · January 11, 2016

WTF is that angle iron bolted in there??

I finished installing a Kicker Hideaway sub under the driver's seat last night but apparently don't have a nut that fits the open post on the accessory block on top of the battery for power. I stopped by the parts department on the way to work this morning and GM doesn't list that nut as an available part or have a size listed, only the entire accessory block with the 3 nuts already included.

Does anyone happen to know what size nut fits on the 3rd post of the accessory block on the battery?

I figured I'd pick one up on way home from work if someone knows the size otherwise I'll pull one of the existing nuts and run to Home Depot tonight when I get back to my truck.

Pic from someone else's post:

ROLNSLO · January 11, 2016

WTF is that angle iron bolted in there??

No clue. You'd have to ask Fasthotrod, it came from his post on page 11 of this thread: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153662-adding-aftermarket-subamp/page-11?do=findComment&comment=1461357

crewl1 · January 11, 2016

I finished installing a Kicker Hideaway sub under the driver's seat last night but apparently don't have a nut that fits the open post on the accessory block on top of the battery for power. I stopped by the parts department on the way to work this morning and GM doesn't list that nut as an available part or have a size listed, only the entire accessory block with the 3 nuts already included.

Does anyone happen to know what size nut fits on the 3rd post of the accessory block on the battery?

I figured I'd pick one up on way home from work if someone knows the size otherwise I'll pull one of the existing nuts and run to Home Depot tonight when I get back to my truck

Sorry I didn't note the nut size but I did like you, took one off and went to homedepot.

It's Metric

ROLNSLO · January 11, 2016

Thanks. I'll pick one up tonight and post the size, in case anyone else is looking for it in the future.

UPDATE: M8-1.25 is the correct nut size. If you are at the autoparts store, you can get the Dorman 982-008 part number, hex flanged nuts, automotive class 10, which are what the OE ones are. Hope that saves someone some time on your own sub project.