Jump to content

Price paid?


Capt39

Recommended Posts

Posted

2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Crew Cab

SLE Value Package

Bed LED Lights

2WD

* It was a demo - had 1800 miles on it*

MSRP $40,985

 

OTD I paid $26,250. (Taxes/title/plates separate in MO)

  • Replies 2.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

I am looking to purchase a Crew Cab GMC Denali with stickers ranging in the 54-55 mark. Would 10k off sticker be unreasonable yet or will I need to wait a few more months?

Posted

$10k off on a loaded SLT is normal. I don't know if they are dealing much on the Denalis. I don't remember even seeing one at the dealers I went to. I think those are rather desireable.

 

Edit: Looks like they are only offering a $1500 rebate on the Denali. I haven't done any shopping myself, but I'd think $5k total off would be about where they would go. The SLTs have larger rebates.

Posted

2014 GMC Sierra 1500 SLE Crew Cab

SLE Value Package

Bed LED Lights

2WD

* It was a demo - had 1800 miles on it*

MSRP $40,985

 

OTD I paid $26,250. (Taxes/title/plates separate in MO)

Wow, heck of a deal... what dealership was that

Posted

Wow, heck of a deal... what dealership was that

Laura Buick GMC in Collinsville IL. They are the 2nd or 3rd largest GMC truck dealer in the country by sales I believe. Was the most low hassle purchase I have ever made.

They took off $5k for demo rebate.

Posted

Laura Buick GMC in Collinsville IL. They are the 2nd or 3rd largest GMC truck dealer in the country by sales I believe. Was the most low hassle purchase I have ever made.

They took off $5k for demo rebate.

 

Is there a Laura GMC for Chevrolet's out there in the country?

Posted

 

Is there a Laura GMC for Chevrolet's out there in the country?

You might try one in a big city? Autonation is a huge dealer, Hendrick in Kansas City and ELCO In St. Louis. I'm sure there is data somewhere that shows top rated dealers by sales numbers.

Posted
Sdfd504,

 

I agree with Milligan. I bought an SLT this past Spring, I tried to buy a Denali, but couldn't get anyone to deal with me. It actually about ticked me off enough to go by a Ford or Dodge. They would only come off MSPR around $6,500. I ended up buying a loaded SLT, it had more options than most of the Denalis I had located. (less the Denali badges) It wasn't about the money I offered more for a couple Denali's but I calculated the discount the same as I was offering on the SLT. They don't want to sell those trucks to people paying cash. they want to sell them to the guy who can't afford them but wants to know how low you get my payment. As for the SLT I love it. At this point in the season you should be able to get near $10G off the factory MSRP of a '14.

Posted

Is there a way of knowing if incentives will go up or down for September? The saleslady hasn't budged at all, today she brought out the "we need to finish his by the end of the month". I don't know if I should wait and hope they at least stay the same?

 

I might just wait till Thursday or Friday (they're closed all weekend) and see if she'll come down any more. I'd threaten to walk but it's the only regular cab I've even found that I want.

Posted

Jonny24,

 

I think most of the "incentives" are smoke and mirrors to confuse buyers. Auto dealers are selling a commodity for the most part. Find the truck you want, scan back through this thread and see what guys have paid for a similar truck. Tell them what you are going to pay. You should be near $10G off factory MSRP at this time of the year. If they can't do it be prepared to walk. When I bought my SLT earlier this year, the deal was completely done before ever saw the truck or step foot on the lot. My total time was about 30 minutes at the dealership. I paid $44K for a truck with a MSRP just shy of $54K. When I made my offer I was clear that it was to include all their dealer prep fees, temp tag, etc, including the fee to deposit my check in their bank account. Taxes vary by state, but I paid the sales tax when I tagged it.

 

Good Luck!

Posted

I bought a 14 last week, 15 miles on the truck tungsten metallic z71

 

Msrp was 46,510 I paid 37,000 before taxes, had to go to a few different dealers to get the price that low....

 

Really wanted the dark blue, oh well

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,376 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...