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Posted

Mine was 164.50 shipped from Elite Engineering. That's not bad from what I've seen here for the quality.

Posted (edited)

I've been reading....

http://www.conceptualpolymer.com/PCV%20Line%20Oil%20Removal%20102.pdf

 

 

I think I'm going to put a Mann-hummel Provent 200 on and see what I get out of it. Edit: Ordered it.

https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/service/catalogues/pdf/ProVent_en_2013.pdf

 

provent200andfilter_zps0yndm2zw.jpg

P200_2W.jpg

 

It seems to have all the features you'd expect of a OEM type device, including a safety relief valve, pan drain back, and a coalescent filter.

 

Coalescent action is what we're looking for. That's the action of taking the oil vapor out of the air flow. That can happen with a line just going into a larger volume like a can and slowing down. Some designs try to do it by centrifugal action, but that seems to be limited in effectiveness in a small, unpowered design. Some do it with a labyrinth style baffling, combined with large volume. Still others, may add a coalescent filter to trap more.

 

Some of the aftermarket ones I've looked at also had some type of coalescent media, such as a steel screen or metal wool. Those have the advantage of being washable. Those seem to be easily opened and cleaned. The Provent it easily opened and cleaned. The downside of the Provent is it looks like it may not be a washable coalescent filter. Some of the cans are not able to be opened. Some makers won't tell you what's inside.

 

You guys should remember to flush out your catch cans on some kind of interval. I've seen a number of airplanes with large (8" dia) cans that never got flushed and eventually plugged up and oil sprayed out of anywhere it could get out of an engine (while in flight). It happened on a plane I flew that belonged to a friend. I'd recommend cleaning those cans every year before winter. That frothy oil/water mixture can freeze too. Without a bypass valve on most of these cans, you could have a big honkin mess. And even a bypass valve can get stuck if it freezes with water/oil . I'm definitely in favor of designs that can be easily opened to inspect.

Edited by spurshot
Posted (edited)

I just installed the CP unit a couple weeks ago. I like having the glass to see what's happening in there. Get alot of condensation in there as the engine warms up. I got the kit with an extra filter and glass, just in case. I ended up having to splice a 4" section of my line, because I was doing it in a rush, and had measured & cut my hoses before I tightened down the 90° elbows. Once tightened, the VAC side ended up 180° from where I had planned it ... so had to flip it around ... and now my damn line wouldn't reach! Always somethin'!

 

Not a real big deal - most people don't notice until I mention it. Not like the hood is always up at a car show or something ... :lol:

 

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After towing a BMW X5 over 300 miles, and coming back empty, I had about a 1/4 of the container full of oil/water vapor mix. Not very much - that jar is tiny. Might hold maybe 8 oz. total, just guessing. I clean it out whenever I come back from a long drive, so not a big deal.

 

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Happy with it so far. Better than sending all that crap into the upper intake.

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Edited by Jsdirt
Posted

I just installed my Elite Engineering Catch can. It was very easy, probably 20 min total not rushing.

Posted

I checked my hose after driving a bit and it has a slight "ovalling" to it. Should I get stronger hoses or will it be ok?

Posted

I checked my hose after driving a bit and it has a slight "ovalling" to it. Should I get stronger hoses or will it be ok?

 

We supply all our Catch Can kits with OEM Fuel line hose per SAE j30r7 or j30r6. This should be standard at any auto parts store.

Posted

I used the r7 on mine, with the exception of 4" of r10 barrier .. since I screwed up my measurements and positioning by not tightening the elbows down beforehand. Holding up fine so far.

 

r7 is perfect for underhood exposure and oil contact.

Posted

Will the ovalling affect the operation of the catch can or cause any other issues? If not I won't worry about it.

Posted

Just be sure it's not sucking air - that's the #1 thing you want to avoid. #2 is to make sure it's not pinched on itself, cutting off airflow.

Posted

It's not pinched off, just slightly out of round. It's a quality product and everything seems to be hooked up and working fine. I'll see how it goes after a while, I can always change hose later.

 

Thanks Js.

Posted (edited)

what size would I need for a 4.3l on the 2014 Silverado, if I can scratch up enough coin I would love to install one to protect what I can now that I am reaching 6500 miles, thanks

Edited by rhodeislandhntr
Posted

what size would I need for a 4.3l on the 2014 Silverado, if I can scratch up enough coin I would love to install one to protect what I can now that I am reaching 6500 miles, thanks

Just choose the v8 model and put in the order notes it's for a 4.3L. I am pretty sure they are the same kit. I ordered one for a v6 Camaro originally planning on installing in an Acadia but then ended up using it in my v8 truck. All the included parts including mounting bracket worked for me. Or just email them, that's what I did and they were very helpful.

 

I just emptied mine again after about 500 miles and had about 5 oz of the oily watery mix.

Posted

It's not pinched off, just slightly out of round. It's a quality product and everything seems to be hooked up and working fine. I'll see how it goes after a while, I can always change hose later.

 

Thanks Js.

When I originally put mine on I left the hoses long to make sure it was going to work in the location I chose. I noticed the hoses had a slight oval shape also. After I cut them shorter I have not noticed it doing that.

Posted

Man, after reading everything here, I'll most likely be getting the Elite Engineering Standard Can. I had to order my truck, so I'll be able to install this with next to no miles.

 

So it sounds like even in the winter time, these cans should be ok to run, and there are no negatives if for some reason the fluid in the can froze at the bottom?

 

My other question is, I think that I read the Elite Eng. Can uses a steel wool media... does this ever need to be replaced?

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