Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For anyone who's thinking the ebay catch cans are garbage, I would say you are all wasting a lot of money on the expensive ones.

 

 

Not necessarily true. If you do your homework, you’ll find a lot of good Catch Cans on the market. You will also find a lot of products that claim to be Catch Cans but have no internal design or baffling to create the optimum amount of pressure drop to pull the oil out of the vapor. We have engineered and designed many features in our Catch Can that we feel add a lot of value. To name a few, our Catch Cans have a Stainless Steel mesh, internal baffling, dual chamber containment, and a hard anodized finish to prevent corrosion. In addition, the Base of our Catch Can is removable to allow complete inspection of all internal components and ease cleaning.

 

As I said, there are a lot on the market, go with a company you can trust. There's a lot of junk Catch Cans on the market that claim great results, but are nothing more than empty beer cans. Install our Catch Can downstream of many of the imitation catch cans and you'll be amazed at how much oil still gets through the cheap brands.

  • Like 1
Posted

Read this whole thread, I won't have my truck at least for another month to month and a half from factory but I will be getting a CC for sure.

 

Good read.

Posted

For those with 20k on a truck before adding a catch can, what can be done to eliminate any damage (if any) already done?

Posted

For those with 20k on a truck before adding a catch can, what can be done to eliminate any damage (if any) already done?

CRC valve cleaner or spray seafoam would be the easiest to try and reduce some of the carbon build up on the valves. Or you could take your intake manifold off and manually clean your valves.

Posted (edited)

For those with 20k on a truck before adding a catch can, what can be done to eliminate any damage (if any) already done?

Check out the BG induction service. It's a little pricier and a more involved process than just spraying some seafoam in your engine but it's supposed to be the real deal. They market the service specifically for direct injection engines.

 

HOWEVER, there is some debate out there as to weather any of these products are safe for the engine. It has been discussed through various online outlets and sources that the valve deposits these cleaning agents remove can get trapped between your ring seals and cylinder walls and that can cause the cylinder walls to get scored up thereby creating more of a problem for oil blow by/consumption. Rx specifically mentioned this in one of their install videos and to me over the phone. Even after I already had bought and installed their catch can (so no more product to sell to me from their standpoint) they advised against doing this repeatedly to the engine. They did say if I wanted to do one initial cleaning that would probably be ok but not to do it a lot.

 

Conversely, BG does market their cleaning products as a regular maintenance item and they will warranty your engine if you use their products per their maintenance plan (once every 15,000 miles or something to that effect).

 

So for me the jury is still out on what I want to do. I plan to talk to my mechanic some more about it and see.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the insight. I'm from a small town and 10-15 of my retired friends drive 2014-15 vehicles with 5.3 motor. Out of curiousity, I asked if they had added a catch can. As expected, they looked at me like I had 3 heads. So folks like, are they going to possibly experience issues? Something the dealership is going to want to charge a bunch to fix?

Edited by Aldila
Posted

I finally got my Elite Engineering can installed this afternoon. I realized that my engine bay really needs a good cleaning.

20150318_145503_zpsps68rgnk.jpg

Posted (edited)

I finally got my Elite Engineering can installed this afternoon. I realized that my engine bay really needs a good cleaning.

20150318_145503_zpsps68rgnk.jpg

 

Nice, went with the Blue Catch can and upgraded Black AN Hose Finishers. Looks good!

 

Just one comment, you don't need Teflon tape between the black AN fittings. They are dry seal fittings.

Edited by Elite Engineering
  • Like 1
Posted

 

Nice, went with the Blue Catch can and upgraded Black AN Hose Finishers. Looks good!

That's the setup I want to go with, except black or silver can. Love the hose setup
Posted

 

Nice, went with the Blue Catch can and upgraded Black AN Hose Finishers. Looks good!

 

Just one comment, you don't need Teflon tape between the black AN fittings. They are dry seal fittings.

Thanks! Ok I will take it off because it was bugging me anyways lol.

Posted

 

Nice, went with the Blue Catch can and upgraded Black AN Hose Finishers. Looks good!

 

Just one comment, you don't need Teflon tape between the black AN fittings. They are dry seal fittings.

Do the AN fittings provide any benefit over the hose barbs besides the obvious and quite nice aesthetics

Posted

Do the AN fittings provide any benefit over the hose barbs besides the obvious and quite nice aesthetics

Aesthetics and the ability to un-thread the AN fittings and quickly remove the Catch Can assembly if needed.

Posted

Thanks for the insight. I'm from a small town and 10-15 of my retired friends drive 2014-15 vehicles with 5.3 motor. Out of curiousity, I asked if they had added a catch can. As expected, they looked at me like I had 3 heads. So folks like, are they going to possibly experience issues? Something the dealership is going to want to charge a bunch to fix?

I can share my experience with my wife's Acadia that had a DI motor. At around 100k miles it started running a little rougher, would stumble on acceleration, and started throwing check engine lights. The air intake tube from the air filter box to the throttle body where the pcv tube emptied into would fill up with the oily milkshake and I'm sure it was getting sucked back into the engine. It caused the mass air flow sensor to go bad, the valves were all gunked up, and they had to do a top end engine cleaning to get it running good again. Costed hundreds and hundreds of dollars and multiple trips to the dealer for them to figure it out. I ordered an Elite CC for it but ended up putting it on my new truck as we decided to trade in the Acadia for a smaller more fuel efficient and non DI motor SUV. After going thru that experience and seeing how much it collects in my truck there is no way I would not use one now. My father is looking to get a new Chevy truck and I'll be sure to convince him on a catch can for it and unfortunately caution him to look out for the shakers and vibrators out there. On a side note, sorry to go a little off topic, but do any of your 10-15 friends have any of the vibration issues discussed in other threads?

Posted

I can share my experience with my wife's Acadia that had a DI motor. At around 100k miles it started running a little rougher, would stumble on acceleration, and started throwing check engine lights. The air intake tube from the air filter box to the throttle body where the pcv tube emptied into would fill up with the oily milkshake and I'm sure it was getting sucked back into the engine. It caused the mass air flow sensor to go bad, the valves were all gunked up, and they had to do a top end engine cleaning to get it running good again. Costed hundreds and hundreds of dollars and multiple trips to the dealer for them to figure it out. I ordered an Elite CC for it but ended up putting it on my new truck as we decided to trade in the Acadia for a smaller more fuel efficient and non DI motor SUV. After going thru that experience and seeing how much it collects in my truck there is no way I would not use one now. My father is looking to get a new Chevy truck and I'll be sure to convince him on a catch can for it and unfortunately caution him to look out for the shakers and vibrators out there. On a side note, sorry to go a little off topic, but do any of your 10-15 friends have any of the vibration issues discussed in other threads?

I appreciate your response. Most of the friends have between 5-20k. So, they are still fairly new. I will use your story as reference when I do the friendly thing and recommend a catch can. Most don't do any forum activity, so they have no knowledge of people's experiences pertaining to these issues.

Posted

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

  • Like 5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I wonder how much carbon is on all those high mileage valves?
    • When I had a Bumper subscription for a few days when I needed to run title histories on cars I was looking at, I decided to look up a few of my old/past vehicles.   My 2015 Silverado was still actively registered and it last sold in 2024 with 160k on the clock. No idea if that's on the original engine but someone's keeping it on the road or the original AFM stuff is still going.   It used 0w20. I remember feeding it Mobil 0w20 AFE for the first 30k of its life on <5k OCI's.     Edit: Just did a nationwide search on Autotrader for 2015-2025 Silverados with 5.3's and sorted by highest mileage first.   357k 352k 292k 291k 290k 277k 271k 268k 266k 259k 256k   High mileage on a modern 5.3 doesn't seem all that uncommon, but that's just searching mostly dealer ads on Autotrader. FB Marketplace has all kinds of high mileage 5.3's going back to 2007    
    • I can't say I have ever heard of someone getting that type of mileage out of a set of tires even though they rotated on a regular basis but without a doubt if the front end gets wear and those tires are no longer able to track straight it scrubs them off, and driving style and road surface make a huge difference as well.    However that is not what prompted me to comment as it was the new tire theme of sitting in storage waiting to be used scenario. I am sure some tires can last for quite a while in storage if its not too warm and out of the sunlight but unfortunately some tires the way they their rubber compound is formulated they can age and dry out even in a reasonably decent storage location. My brother ran into this maybe three years ago when he was looking at the tires that were on his dually truck and a combination of wear on the rear ones and noticing that the front tires had some cracks around the sidewall of the tire not far from the bead but he had replaced only the front ones not long ago with 2 of the remaining 6 he had left from the initial two sets of takeoffs he had all bought at the same time .... 10 years ago ! ( the years fly by, a truck that only gets used a bit to haul a camper during the summer and sits in a shed for a large part of the year ). That second set of 6 tires, two he had put on the front prior like I said and they had very little wear but those cracks were now present. So we go into the shed where the other 4 tires had been stored all this time and every one of them had the same cracks in the sidewalls and so in the end it amounted to throwing away 6 brand new but 10 year old takeoff tires into the dump that he got a deal on at a tire shop because they aged out. They were a Ford factory equipment BFG tire and those tires did not age well compared to some tires I've seen far older then that and did not show that type of aging. True, they always say up here anyway that 7 years is sort of a limit for age by rights, we don't have the intense prolonged heat that many of you have down in the states that just cook tires and depends on where the vehicle sits when not in use. GB, another words maybe had you bought a set of tires to store it would have been fine as long as you used them up fast enough but there are no guarantees when it comes to rubber, tires or of that other type stored in some guys wallets 😆
    • 2020 2500 HD...I had some trouble getting the key into the ignition switch but went in fine after applying some extra effort. Since then, the door chimes when open when the key is out of the ignition. Also, when I lock the doors with the switch on the arm rest, the driver door locks but then unlocks. (I can lock everything fine with the fob) The message on the little screen displays the "Engine Hours"...kinda weird.   I'm guessing something happened to the ignition switch and it thinks the key is still in there. I unplugged the batteries for 20 minutes, no change. There are a number of videos on YouTube but nothing I can find that address this specific issue. Ideas appreciated, thank you.
    • Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...