Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

For anyone who's thinking the ebay catch cans are garbage, I would say you are all wasting a lot of money on the expensive ones.

 

 

Not necessarily true. If you do your homework, you’ll find a lot of good Catch Cans on the market. You will also find a lot of products that claim to be Catch Cans but have no internal design or baffling to create the optimum amount of pressure drop to pull the oil out of the vapor. We have engineered and designed many features in our Catch Can that we feel add a lot of value. To name a few, our Catch Cans have a Stainless Steel mesh, internal baffling, dual chamber containment, and a hard anodized finish to prevent corrosion. In addition, the Base of our Catch Can is removable to allow complete inspection of all internal components and ease cleaning.

 

As I said, there are a lot on the market, go with a company you can trust. There's a lot of junk Catch Cans on the market that claim great results, but are nothing more than empty beer cans. Install our Catch Can downstream of many of the imitation catch cans and you'll be amazed at how much oil still gets through the cheap brands.

  • Like 1
Posted

Read this whole thread, I won't have my truck at least for another month to month and a half from factory but I will be getting a CC for sure.

 

Good read.

Posted

For those with 20k on a truck before adding a catch can, what can be done to eliminate any damage (if any) already done?

Posted

For those with 20k on a truck before adding a catch can, what can be done to eliminate any damage (if any) already done?

CRC valve cleaner or spray seafoam would be the easiest to try and reduce some of the carbon build up on the valves. Or you could take your intake manifold off and manually clean your valves.

Posted (edited)

For those with 20k on a truck before adding a catch can, what can be done to eliminate any damage (if any) already done?

Check out the BG induction service. It's a little pricier and a more involved process than just spraying some seafoam in your engine but it's supposed to be the real deal. They market the service specifically for direct injection engines.

 

HOWEVER, there is some debate out there as to weather any of these products are safe for the engine. It has been discussed through various online outlets and sources that the valve deposits these cleaning agents remove can get trapped between your ring seals and cylinder walls and that can cause the cylinder walls to get scored up thereby creating more of a problem for oil blow by/consumption. Rx specifically mentioned this in one of their install videos and to me over the phone. Even after I already had bought and installed their catch can (so no more product to sell to me from their standpoint) they advised against doing this repeatedly to the engine. They did say if I wanted to do one initial cleaning that would probably be ok but not to do it a lot.

 

Conversely, BG does market their cleaning products as a regular maintenance item and they will warranty your engine if you use their products per their maintenance plan (once every 15,000 miles or something to that effect).

 

So for me the jury is still out on what I want to do. I plan to talk to my mechanic some more about it and see.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the insight. I'm from a small town and 10-15 of my retired friends drive 2014-15 vehicles with 5.3 motor. Out of curiousity, I asked if they had added a catch can. As expected, they looked at me like I had 3 heads. So folks like, are they going to possibly experience issues? Something the dealership is going to want to charge a bunch to fix?

Edited by Aldila
Posted

I finally got my Elite Engineering can installed this afternoon. I realized that my engine bay really needs a good cleaning.

20150318_145503_zpsps68rgnk.jpg

Posted (edited)

I finally got my Elite Engineering can installed this afternoon. I realized that my engine bay really needs a good cleaning.

20150318_145503_zpsps68rgnk.jpg

 

Nice, went with the Blue Catch can and upgraded Black AN Hose Finishers. Looks good!

 

Just one comment, you don't need Teflon tape between the black AN fittings. They are dry seal fittings.

Edited by Elite Engineering
  • Like 1
Posted

 

Nice, went with the Blue Catch can and upgraded Black AN Hose Finishers. Looks good!

That's the setup I want to go with, except black or silver can. Love the hose setup
Posted

 

Nice, went with the Blue Catch can and upgraded Black AN Hose Finishers. Looks good!

 

Just one comment, you don't need Teflon tape between the black AN fittings. They are dry seal fittings.

Thanks! Ok I will take it off because it was bugging me anyways lol.

Posted

 

Nice, went with the Blue Catch can and upgraded Black AN Hose Finishers. Looks good!

 

Just one comment, you don't need Teflon tape between the black AN fittings. They are dry seal fittings.

Do the AN fittings provide any benefit over the hose barbs besides the obvious and quite nice aesthetics

Posted

Do the AN fittings provide any benefit over the hose barbs besides the obvious and quite nice aesthetics

Aesthetics and the ability to un-thread the AN fittings and quickly remove the Catch Can assembly if needed.

Posted

Thanks for the insight. I'm from a small town and 10-15 of my retired friends drive 2014-15 vehicles with 5.3 motor. Out of curiousity, I asked if they had added a catch can. As expected, they looked at me like I had 3 heads. So folks like, are they going to possibly experience issues? Something the dealership is going to want to charge a bunch to fix?

I can share my experience with my wife's Acadia that had a DI motor. At around 100k miles it started running a little rougher, would stumble on acceleration, and started throwing check engine lights. The air intake tube from the air filter box to the throttle body where the pcv tube emptied into would fill up with the oily milkshake and I'm sure it was getting sucked back into the engine. It caused the mass air flow sensor to go bad, the valves were all gunked up, and they had to do a top end engine cleaning to get it running good again. Costed hundreds and hundreds of dollars and multiple trips to the dealer for them to figure it out. I ordered an Elite CC for it but ended up putting it on my new truck as we decided to trade in the Acadia for a smaller more fuel efficient and non DI motor SUV. After going thru that experience and seeing how much it collects in my truck there is no way I would not use one now. My father is looking to get a new Chevy truck and I'll be sure to convince him on a catch can for it and unfortunately caution him to look out for the shakers and vibrators out there. On a side note, sorry to go a little off topic, but do any of your 10-15 friends have any of the vibration issues discussed in other threads?

Posted

I can share my experience with my wife's Acadia that had a DI motor. At around 100k miles it started running a little rougher, would stumble on acceleration, and started throwing check engine lights. The air intake tube from the air filter box to the throttle body where the pcv tube emptied into would fill up with the oily milkshake and I'm sure it was getting sucked back into the engine. It caused the mass air flow sensor to go bad, the valves were all gunked up, and they had to do a top end engine cleaning to get it running good again. Costed hundreds and hundreds of dollars and multiple trips to the dealer for them to figure it out. I ordered an Elite CC for it but ended up putting it on my new truck as we decided to trade in the Acadia for a smaller more fuel efficient and non DI motor SUV. After going thru that experience and seeing how much it collects in my truck there is no way I would not use one now. My father is looking to get a new Chevy truck and I'll be sure to convince him on a catch can for it and unfortunately caution him to look out for the shakers and vibrators out there. On a side note, sorry to go a little off topic, but do any of your 10-15 friends have any of the vibration issues discussed in other threads?

I appreciate your response. Most of the friends have between 5-20k. So, they are still fairly new. I will use your story as reference when I do the friendly thing and recommend a catch can. Most don't do any forum activity, so they have no knowledge of people's experiences pertaining to these issues.

Posted

My dealership said my catch can wasn't needed and wouldn't catch anything. I opened it in there shop after 2,000 miles and let it run on the floor. Lol

  • Like 5

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I was using recirc/max air. Especially if it really hot i start out by lowering the front windows a little with regular ac the go to recirculation after a few and rolling windows up. And it does not have the newest refrigerant. It has per the info under the hood r134. Not the new r1234yf.  
    • tldr; Shade tree mechanic stumped by variable displacement AC compressor.   Not Silverado related, but for my 2000 Camaro SS. I've never really used the AC since acquiring the car a good handful of years ago. I plan to take it on a trip this summer so I wanted to make sure the AC was in good shape. On an 73 degree day in the shop with the car idling I set the AC on "Max", temp set to cold, and fan on hi. The compressor turned on and air turned nice and cold.   I let it run for several minutes but noticed the compressor never cycled off. The engine was up to temperature enough that it began cycling the cooling fans on high. I had a set of manifold gauges hooked up and it was consistently at about 25 psi on the low side and between 200 and 225 psi (warm engine) on the high side. Per temperature charts, the low side is low (should be 30-35) and the high side is a little high (up to 170 per chart). I read the low pressure as potentially being under-charged underscored by a continually running compressor This was also underscored by temp readings of mid-20 degrees at the vents. Not just cold, freezing cold. Switching off the AC but leaving the HVAC fan on high produced a deluge of condensation underneath the vehicle. I was getting ice buildup on the evap core most likely.   The low reading (25psi) concerned me that the compressor wasn't switching off so I swapped out the pressure switch. No change in behavior, still ran constantly.   The AC clutch works fine as it engages/disengages with the HVAC switch on command. The compressor relay is good as I swapped it with two different known good relays just to be sure. Having eliminated that, and the pressure switch, I added refrigerant, thinking the constant run and low "low" pressure were signs of a slight undercharge. Makes sense, the car is 26 years old and it doesn't appear the AC system has ever been touched.   Adding some R134a didn't meaningfully change the low side pressure. And that's when a lightbulb flashed upstairs. While I consider the car "old", it's possibly "new" enough to have a variable displacement compressor. Did some reading and sure enough. Dangit. I don't work on these for this reason.   Adding refrigerant means the compressor will just compensate and won't really change pressures until it's severely overcharged or undercharged. But at least I wasn't getting ice/frost anymore, but instead high 30 degree temps out of the vents. That's more normal, but with variable displacement now I have no idea where my charge level is at. It's probably overcharged now. The high side even with the engine radiating serious heat was never really over about 225.   The static pressure at room temperature is dead on, before and after the charge. Both high/low equalize after some rest.   I'm thinking I'll need to take it to a shop. I want the proper charge level so I'm not working the compressor too hard. The only way to get an accurate charge is to evacuate and then re-charge with the exact amount specified for the system -- at least that's what I'm reading.   Anyone here with modern automotive AC knowledge?  
    • Mine is in the shop for the AC now. While it did get cold after a bit, it would take a while to even start to cool the air at all. Turns out the compressor was bad and cycling. 
    • I call B.S. when I first moved to Texas my first house would only cool to 80 with the Texas heat. The AC tech said it was normal at 100 degrees outside. I remodeled the house put in a new AC. I could hang meat. My cars may need recirculating to start. Once moving it switches to regular AC and I could hang meat. Living in Texas no one would put up with only 20 degrees difference. 
    • AC in home or auto only cool down 15-25 degrees from outside temp, but what will help is to put the ac in recirc mode this will recirc the Inside cabin air rather then trying to cool down the outside hot air, I always have mine in recirc mode.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...