Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok, so what is the consensus? What brands are the best bang for the buck these days? I'm looking to replace my Jegs catch can because it's too small...only get about 300 miles before its full.

 

I'm looking to stay around $125.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

 

I think you need to increase your budget. Otherwise, you may be throwing good money away after bad. I started shopping for for quality first and then price. I ended up with Elite Engineering and RX Performance on my short list.

 

I picked Elite because of price and the batter bay bracket for my 2015 GMC. Elite's customer service is outstanding and I only learned that after the sale.

 

Good luck.

Posted

 

Ok, so what is the consensus? What brands are the best bang for the buck these days? I'm looking to replace my Jegs catch can because it's too small...only get about 300 miles before its full.

 

I'm looking to stay around $125.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

 

There are a lot of good Catch Cans on the market, there's also a lot of junk. Some are just empty beer cans without any internal baffling for the oil vapor to condense on. Be sure to choose a Catch Can that's been around for a while, with good engineering and design. Also, one that's easy to inspect and/or empty.

 

 

 

 

I understand this, been reading this topic for a while and have a Jeg's installed (as an entry level to see what I caught).

Posted

 

I think you need to increase your budget. Otherwise, you may be throwing good money away after bad. I started shopping for for quality first and then price. I ended up with Elite Engineering and RX Performance on my short list.

 

I picked Elite because of price and the batter bay bracket for my 2015 GMC. Elite's customer service is outstanding and I only learned that after the sale.

 

Good luck.

 

 

There are a lot of quality units in this price range, including the Elite. I've considered the Elite and the Conceptual Poly cans, then Moroso and http://www.mishimoto.com/ .

Posted

Whast up guys, I installed my can a few weeks ago. Here are some pics. about 800miles in.

post-134397-0-06276300-1425845717_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-57533000-1425845726_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-18184900-1425845734_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-06276300-1425845717_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-57533000-1425845726_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-18184900-1425845734_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-06276300-1425845717_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-57533000-1425845726_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-18184900-1425845734_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-06276300-1425845717_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-57533000-1425845726_thumb.jpg

post-134397-0-18184900-1425845734_thumb.jpg

Posted

Whast up guys, I installed my can a few weeks ago. Here are some pics. about 800miles in.

I think I bought the same CC as pictured where did u mount it can't really tell how and where u mounted it also which hose went where? Thanks

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Ok, so what is the consensus? What brands are the best bang for the buck these days? I'm looking to replace my Jegs catch can because it's too small...only get about 300 miles before its full.

I'm looking to stay around $125.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

I started a thread on the Saikou Michi cans, half the price of an RX, performs just as good, brackets are designed for our engine bays, holds a good 10 ounces. Ask for a single can system and you'll be in your price range, add another 50-60 bucks and you can get a dual system.
Posted

I started a thread on the Saikou Michi cans, half the price of an RX, performs just as good, brackets are designed for our engine bays, holds a good 10 ounces. Ask for a single can system and you'll be in your price range, add another 50-60 bucks and you can get a dual system.

 

 

The only thing I didn't like about the Saikou Michi is that it is a completely sealed can...I'm one for taking things apart and cleaning. My biggest concern with a sealed can is winter...I swabbed out jello from my jegs unit, and was lucky enough that in unscrewed. That stuff would not have drained from a petcock.

 

I've pretty much set upon the CP can, and maybe even the aluminum body...still like to see what's going on in there. I guess my reasoning is that I have the Jegs, I see how it works and how well it works, and the CP is a very similar design (just larger).

Posted

 

 

That stuff would not have drained from a petcock.

 

 

That is really good to know. Thanks. Glad I went with the Elite. You and I have the same climate.

 

Hope to get mine installed today or tomorrow now that it has warmed up a bit.

Posted (edited)

I also asked Steve if I needed the larger can. He said the regular can will have no problem going from oil change to oil change without needing emptied - even in cold climates where I am at.

 

He was very helpful.

 

I don't see how this is possible unless the can doesn't work as well as the RX or it has a 40+ ounce reservoir capacity. My RX can is draining approximately 6 ounces of fluid every 750 miles here in Virginia. At that rate it would need to hold at LEAST 40 oz for me to make it 5,000 miles. There's no way I'd ever go that long in the winter.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted

 

I don't see how this is possible unless the can doesn't work as well as the RX or it has a 40+ ounce reservoir capacity. My RX can is draining approximately 6 ounces of fluid every 750 miles here in Virginia. At that rate it would need to hold at LEAST 40 oz for me to make it 5,000 miles. There's no way I'd ever go that long in the winter.

Every engine is different...the expulsion rate of vapor through the PCV is variable. I would get maybe two ounces in 750k, and even if your RX was twice as efficient as my Jegs, that would only be four ounces.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

Posted

Every engine is different...the expulsion rate of vapor through the PCV is variable. I would get maybe two ounces in 750k, and even if your RX was twice as efficient as my Jegs, that would only be four ounces.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

 

2 oz in Reading, PA every 750 miles? Is that a diesel engine or gas?

 

Agreed every engine is different. But same engine, relatively same climate, and a 4 oz difference in stuff being caught per 750 miles....that's a can performance issue in my book. At any rate, I still don't see how you can go 5,000 miles in winter conditions based on the photos people are posting in this thread. In the summer time yes probably.

Posted

 

 

 

2 oz in Reading, PA every 750 miles? Is that a diesel engine or gas?

 

Agreed every engine is different. But same engine, relatively same climate, and a 4 oz difference in stuff being caught per 750 miles....that's a can performance issue in my book. At any rate, I still don't see how you can go 5,000 miles in winter conditions based on the photos people are posting in this thread. In the summer time yes probably.

 

Ok, no reasoning with fanboys. Forget I responded.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Ok, no reasoning with fanboys. Forget I responded.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

 

I WILL forget you responded since you obviously are incapable of having civil discussion with another individual.

 

For anyone else willing to discuss the issue, I'm here and ready to talk. For the record, I'm not a "fanboy" of RX. While I did buy their can, I agree there are other great cans available. If you take the time to read my original post from earlier today, I'm approaching this discussion based strictly on numbers and facts such us climate, engine type, # of miles, etc. I question the statement about being able to drain a catch can every oil change when you live in winter climates. Again based on what others and myself are pulling out of our cans, that doesn't seem physically possible without sucking gunk into your engine.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted (edited)

And again, there are too many variables to compare one engine to another. Period.

 

This like trying to compare used oil analyses...it's pointless. It only shows how well it's working for that particular engine.

 

 

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G730A using Tapatalk

Edited by sdeeter19555
Posted

 

I WILL forget you responded since you obviously are incapable of having civil discussion with another individual.

 

For anyone else willing to discuss the issue, I'm here and ready to talk. For the record, I'm not a "fanboy" of RX. While I did buy their can, I agree there are other great cans available. If you take the time to read my original post from earlier today, I'm approaching this discussion based strictly on numbers and facts such us climate, engine type, # of miles, etc. I question the statement about being able to drain a catch can every oil change when you live in winter climates. Again based on what others and myself are pulling out of our cans, that doesn't seem physically possible without sucking gunk into your engine.

 

Maybe there is something wrong with your truck?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 292 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...