Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

New here. Pick up my '15 tomorrow.

Looks very nice.
Posted

Just picked up my 2015 6.2!dfe9c5b17406988e529d0b9eba88f370.jpg4c2e5b2e9b10a3d6b0960e74f4513813.jpg

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

GMC in the bed looks great too.
Posted

The factory bed liner is perfect. So glad I clicked that option. Truck shops would struggle to replicate that's for sure.

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Posted

The factory bed liner is perfect. So glad I clicked that option. Truck shops would struggle to replicate that's for sure.

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

I agree. Mine looks like turds compared to that.
Posted

The factory bed liner is perfect. So glad I clicked that option. Truck shops would struggle to replicate that's for sure.

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Is that emblem molded into the bed or added on then sprayed over?
Posted

MkvRtqM.jpg

IcEXsxl.jpg

0qxDtYl.jpg

YdB1j3P.jpg

1yXrjZM.jpg

 

Headlight out AGAIN

 

Morimoto kit is not making me happy :/

I had the same issue with my DDM kit. One light went out every so often. Check the relay, that's where my problem was.

Posted (edited)

I'm blowing ballasts

Not trying to go off topic but since you are gaving a problem similar to one I had, you need to check a few things. First, Is it the same ballast every time? What brand of HID's, what color temperature, and what type ballast are you running?

Have you checked for a good ground connection?

 

I don't have HID's in my trucks but I do have them installed in my ATV's. I had a ballast issue with a ballast constantly blowing and it ended up being that the ballast was not getting the proper voltage.

 

HID's are known to be stubborn, very voltage sensitive, not enough volts and you may end up with a blown ballast, too high voltage and you may end up with a blown ballast again.

 

 

If you keep blowing the ballast, there is definitely a problem with the power getting to the ballast OR a bad ground to the light. Check yout relay to be sure the proper voltage is getting past the relay on the side that is constantly blowing. If that checks out to be fine, check the ground side of the circuit to see if you may be having a problem with voltage dropping. If the ground is good, there should be very little voltage at your connection, you probably already know that.

 

When you are testing the voltage, I actually used the normal factory style headlight bulb so there was a load on the circuit while testing and so I did not destroy another brand new HID ballast. I just plugged in the factory connection for the headlight in place of the ballast connection.

 

I solved the voltage issue with my ATV's HID ballast issue this way. It ended up being a bad ground on one side.

 

 

"MIKE1220", beautiful truck you have there. The way you have it set up is perfect! The amount of chrome is just right and those wheels are really eye catching with the chrome accents.

 

Sent from my crappy iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

Edited by BlackZ71Silverado
Posted

Not trying to go off topic but since you are gaving a problem similar to one I had, you need to check a few things. First, Is it the same ballast every time? What brand of HID's, what color temperature, and what type ballast are you running?

Have you checked for a good ground connection?

 

I don't have HID's in my trucks but I do have them installed in my ATV's. I had a ballast issue with a ballast constantly blowing and it ended up being that the ballast was not getting the proper voltage.

 

HID's are known to be stubborn, very voltage sensitive, not enough volts and you may end up with a blown ballast, too high voltage and you may end up with a blown ballast again.

 

 

If you keep blowing the ballast, there is definitely a problem with the power getting to the ballast OR a bad ground to the light. Check yout relay to be sure the proper voltage is getting past the relay on the side that is constantly blowing. If that checks out to be fine, check the ground side of the circuit to see if you may be having a problem with voltage dropping. If the ground is good, there should be very little voltage at your connection, you probably already know that.

 

When you are testing the voltage, I actually used the normal factory style headlight bulb so there was a load on the circuit while testing and so I did not destroy another brand new HID ballast. I just plugged in the factory connection for the headlight in place of the ballast connection.

 

I solved the voltage issue with my ATV's HID ballast issue this way. It ended up being a bad ground on one side.

 

 

"MIKE1220", beautiful truck you have there. The way you have it set up is perfect! The amount of chrome is just right and those wheels are really eye catching with the chrome accents.

 

Sent from my crappy iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

 

Alternating sides and I'm using a wiring harness. It's the Sierra Spec kit from TRS with the capacitor link for voltage stabilization.

 

I'm gonna try a different brand and see if it changes things

Posted

Just picked up my 2015 6.2!dfe9c5b17406988e529d0b9eba88f370.jpg4c2e5b2e9b10a3d6b0960e74f4513813.jpg

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

That is a good looking truck!

  • Like 1
Posted

The factory bed liner is perfect. So glad I clicked that option. Truck shops would struggle to replicate that's for sure.

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Is that emblem molded into the bed or added on then sprayed over?<br/>

 

Not sure what GM is doing to add the Chevy symbol, gmc, or Denali to the bed of the truck. There isn't bolt holes or anything exposed. May be some composite material glued on...just my assumption.

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Posted

Just picked up my 2015 6.2!dfe9c5b17406988e529d0b9eba88f370.jpg4c2e5b2e9b10a3d6b0960e74f4513813.jpg

 

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

My truck is scheduled to be at my dealership the 27th. I should've checked off the spray in liner. Oh well, I'll go to the trusty line-x.
Posted

"MIKE1220", beautiful truck you have there. The way you have it set up is perfect! The amount of chrome is just right and those wheels are really eye catching with the chrome accents.

 

Sent from my iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

Thanks man, I have new rims on the way, soon I'll have an RCX 6" w/ Fuel Lethal 20x9 wrapped in Mickey Thompson Deegan 38s in a 35x12.5x20. I can't wait.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...