Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have the v6 with a flowmaster super 40 but still have the resonator, no floppy valve, you think if I remove the resonator I'll get a deeper growl? What about drone? I know v6 :-( lol

 

Resonator will definitely make it louder, probably deeper as well. The resonator is very restrictive. It will give you more drone, but its not going to make a huge difference with it removed. I say remove it and give it a shot

 

I'm tossing around the idea of a 22" or 18" today. if I find one in town I'll report back on which way I went

 

22" sounds exactly like stock, just a little deeper. 18" is nice. I had that one before the 14" I have now. I have a startup video and an incab I can upload for you. Sounds very similar to the 14", just a little quieter and not as aggressive of a tone. I'll upload it real quick so you can check it out.

Posted (edited)

Yeah, I'm mostly worried about the sound when I'm dragging a 7600# trailer around. Many exhausts sound good until you put a constant load on them... That is when the sound makes me wanna burn my face off.

 

I can stand Flowmaster 10's dumped in a bar hopper, midnight drag type of vehicle but traveling 20 hours straight pulling weight you tend to be a little more picky.

Edited by TDT
Posted

Yeah, I'm mostly worried about the sound when I'm dragging a 7600# trailer around. Many exhausts sound good until you put a constant load on them... That is when the sound makes me wanna burn my face off.

 

I can stand Flowmaster 10's dumped in a bar hopper, midnight drag type of vehicle but traveling 20 hours straight pulling weight you tend to be a little more picky.

My guess is you'd really like the 18" then. Honestly the 22" is barely noticeable even at high rpm. You might hear a little hum, but not much more. 18" at high rpm you can hear it, but it's very subtle. Video is uploading now so I'll post it when Its done.

Posted

I'm tossing around the idea of a 22" or 18" today. if I find one in town I'll report back on which way I went

 

Here you go. Here's a startup and in-cab video of the 18" Magnaflow.

 

 

Posted

Here you go. Here's a startup and in-cab video of the 18" Magnaflow.

 

 

Sure is quiet! I tried getting sound of Magnaflow on 2012 and just got wind noise. It had low rumble at idle and muscle car sound when accelerating
Posted

Damn it...this is getting more and more confusing. I was set on doing the 18" Magnaflow SI/SO (P/N 11259) with resonator and flapper delete and RTP dual tips. But now after hearing Kerrslights 14" I'm second guessing my original plan. Is the 18" noticible in the cab or is it way too quiet?

Posted

I see that magnaflow has mufflers in a 4x9 oval or 5x8 oval. Is there any difference in sound between the two?

Posted

Damn it...this is getting more and more confusing. I was set on doing the 18" Magnaflow SI/SO (P/N 11259) with resonator and flapper delete and RTP dual tips. But now after hearing Kerrslights 14" I'm second guessing my original plan. Is the 18" noticible in the cab or is it way too quiet?

18" you can pretty much only hear under acceleration. Other than that it's pretty quiet. Nice tone, but not as loud or aggressive as 14". That's why I switched from 18 to 14. Very pleased with 14.

 

I see that magnaflow has mufflers in a 4x9 oval or 5x8 oval. Is there any difference in sound between the two?

No sound difference. Just sized differently for different applications

Posted

18" you can pretty much only hear under acceleration. Other than that it's pretty quiet. Nice tone, but not as loud or aggressive as 14". That's why I switched from 18 to 14. Very pleased with 14.

 

No sound difference. Just sized differently for different applications

Any recommendations on which size would be ideal for the silverado?

Posted

Check the part number I posted. That's the same one I got. As long as it's 3" I/O you'll be good

Posted

When looking straight on to the square on the flapper, do you rotate it counter clockwise to the open position?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,915
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ChristopherDobson
    Newest Member
    ChristopherDobson
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,262 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...