Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

If I go any lower I can't drive it. Already damn near ride the upper inner fender if I have more than one other person in the truck. LOL

I'm at 4.5 in my rc right now my front end sits so low because I have small tires. You might want to get a smaller tire. Which will give you mkre room in the fender but also lower the truck.

 

My front valance hates me though but I'm ok with that

Posted

I'm at 4.5 in my rc right now my front end sits so low because I have small tires. You might want to get a smaller tire. Which will give you mkre room in the fender but also lower the truck.

 

My front valance hates me though but I'm ok with that

Yeah. These are 29 inch tires in the front right now. Still have the stock 31 on the back. Doing 24s all the way around so I'm gonna end up clearancing the inner fenders some. I just ordered a 2 piece drive shaft conversion yesterday because I'm rubbing on the cross member on large bumps and I still want to go down another inch in back.

Posted

Yeah. These are 29 inch tires in the front right now. Still have the stock 31 on the back. Doing 24s all the way around so I'm gonna end up clearancing the inner fenders some. I just ordered a 2 piece drive shaft conversion yesterday because I'm rubbing on the cross member on large bumps and I still want to go down another inch in back.

You either need to tub the front fenders of run a 25 series tire in maybe. Maybe squeeze a 30 series

 

I'm running 17s 28"tire front and 30 rear

  • Like 1
Posted

Remember I told you about the tire getting pushed back into the fender well? Take a look at the inez k2 kits. They didn't even correct for that. That kit set at 4" is worse then your teuck set at 5. Ill pass on that inez kit. Most people don't look at things like that

I don't see that problem based on the pictures posted on the Inez Hotrods facebook page (see example picture below). I purchased their 3-5 kit (which I have not yet had installed). The main thing I liked about their system of replacing the control arms is that the alignment of the wheels stays true unlike using drop spindles.

 

20882393_166750353872579_856074399418406

Posted

I don't see that problem based on the pictures posted on the Inez Hotrods facebook page (see example picture below). I purchased their 3-5 kit (which I have not yet had installed). The main thing I liked about their system of replacing the control arms is that the alignment of the wheels stays true unlike using drop spindles.

 

20882393_166750353872579_856074399418406

When you lower using springs and or struts it changes the horizontal geonomtry. Look at the space between the front of the front wheel well and the rear of the front wheel well. It already started pushing it back

Posted

Even my 1" drop from a belltech strut moved my wheel back. Crappy side effect.

Posted

The upper arm is angled back some so as the suspension compresses, the wheel moves back. I think it makes for a better ride but it just looks like shit in my opinion

Posted

The upper arm is angled back some so as the suspension compresses, the wheel moves back. I think it makes for a better ride but it just looks like shit in my opinion

I'm limited on ways to lower a 4x4. There's no spindle that works on a 17 4x4 otherwise I would've done that with the djm arm
Posted

2015 Crew cab LT 4x4 with Mcgaughys 2/4 kit(34100). Just traded it for a 2wd so I could go as low as i want. This was my last pic, I'm gonna miss this one. post-161740-0-53326000-1507264278_thumb.png

post-161740-0-53326000-1507264278_thumb.png

post-161740-0-53326000-1507264278_thumb.png

post-161740-0-53326000-1507264278_thumb.png

  • Like 1
Posted

2015 Crew cab LT 4x4 with Mcgaughys 2/4 kit(34100). Just traded it for a 2wd so I could go as low as i want. This was my last pic, I'm gonna miss this one. Screenshot_2017-10-06-00-27-04-1.png

You could have gone just as low with the 4wd but I prefer 2wd anyway

Posted

You could have gone just as low with the 4wd but I prefer 2wd anyway

Not without way more work, money and wear.
  • Like 1
Posted

Well not really. Only thing that's really different is the front cv shafts

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,778
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    daveishi
    Newest Member
    daveishi
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,022 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Because that is IDIOTIC, much like this question. They've already been forced to do it by past administrations - why would you roll that back when it's a GOOD thing?  WHO IS ARGUING FOR LOWER MILEAGE???? 😂  NOBODY IS!!   I'm certainly not! What I want is RELIABLE vehicles again that are worth the price paid!    I don't get your logic here ...   In 2003 I paid $2,200 for our '86 Grand Marquis. It's STILL running and I've never been inside the engine, aside for the timing cover since it was leaking, so I threw a new timing set in since that makes sense. Transmission is ORIGINAL. Electric pump in the gas tank is ORIGINAL. Rear end is ORIGINAL. I'd have to hit my head REAL hard to want to pay $60k or more for a car that still can't come close to the comfort, seating and storage space, or reliability of this one. Nothing is even in the ball park! Hundreds of thousands of brands and models have been built and sent to the crusher while this one keeps on going!   https://postimg.cc/Z9XRrCSg   I've got a whole fleet of cars, motorcycles, and a truck close to this age for summer and winter. No one could pay me enough to buy anything built this century. I have zero use for any it.
    • Since I'm the one who has to fix them when they break, I'll take vehicles over 30 years old all day, EVERY day, over ANY modern crap. Have you attempted any repairs on anything built after 2006? It's a friggin nightmare, and gets worse the newer the model year.    If I had the will or desire, I can make any car of any age outside of a Model T (I don't have THAT much will ...) just as powerful, comfortable, and have all the tech the new stuff does, and get pretty close in mileage, too. I prefer SIMPLICITY. The less the vehicle has, the less to fix WHEN it breaks, not IF.   I'm glad you snot-nosed punks don't like them. More for us, plus that keeps the prices from climbing more than they already have.👍
    • Bringing this thread back on topic. I just noticed the incredible lack of bright chrome across the entire new lineup. Even the Denali has tinted the brightwork in the grille and has none elsewhere. None of them have chrome bumpers. As far as I can tell there aren't even chrome mirror caps. I'm curious if this also happens out back? Are there no chrome rear bumpers either? This is quite the departure for GMC.
    • Bringing this thread back on topic. I just noticed the incredible lack of bright chrome across the entire new lineup. Even the Denali has tinted the brightwork in the grille and has none elsewhere. None of them have chrome bumpers. As far as I can tell there aren't even chrome mirror caps. I'm curious if this also happens out back? Are there no chrome rear bumpers either? This is quite the departure for GMC.
    • Bringing this thread back on topic. I just noticed the incredible lack of bright chrome across the entire new lineup. Even the Denali has tinted the brightwork in the grille and has none elsewhere. None of them have chrome bumpers. As far as I can tell there aren't even chrome mirror caps. I'm curious if this also happens out back? Are there no chrome rear bumpers either? This is quite the departure for GMC.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...