Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
I just got a pair of the Twisted Metal Workz UCA's delivered.  Take the truck in next week to get them installed.  I only have drop spindles but the wheels sit quite a bit back in the wheel well and my 22's rub and most turns.  I can't wait to get rid of that problem.  Part of the reason i was think about the struts and shocks was thinking about getting all of the work done at the same time.  Thanks again.
Do you have a DJM or IHC kit installed?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
5 minutes ago, SirenRed16 said:

Do you have a DJM or IHC kit installed?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I originally had the IHC with the lower control arms only for a 3"/5" drop but didn't want it quite that low partly because it was a touch lower than I wanted but mainly because it rubber a lot.  I chose the kit because the front wheel was not supposed to shift backward, but in my case that was not what happened.  IHC tried to make it right and even sent me a second set of arms to fix the problem.  It didn't change the wheel position.  So at that point I followed Nasty's advice and changed the arms back to stock and put in a drop spindle.  The wheel position improved a small amount but not much.  The turning radius/rubbing problem improved to a tolerable level.  Since Nasty mentioned the TMW UCAs though I have been hopeful that they will improve the wheel position enough that I might get back a large amount of turning radius I lost.  When I talked to the mechanic doing the alignment he said it was the stock UCAs that were limiting the wheel position.

Posted
I originally had the IHC with the lower control arms only for a 3"/5" drop but didn't want it quite that low partly because it was a touch lower than I wanted but mainly because it rubber a lot.  I chose the kit because the front wheel was not supposed to shift backward, but in my case that was not what happened.  IHC tried to make it right and even sent me a second set of arms to fix the problem.  It didn't change the wheel position.  So at that point I followed Nasty's advice and changed the arms back to stock and put in a drop spindle.  The wheel position improved a small amount but not much.  The turning radius/rubbing problem improved to a tolerable level.  Since Nasty mentioned the TMW UCAs though I have been hopeful that they will improve the wheel position enough that I might get back a large amount of turning radius I lost.  When I talked to the mechanic doing the alignment he said it was the stock UCAs that were limiting the wheel position.
Ihc kits shift the wheel back more than any other kit

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Posted
5 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Ihc kits shift the wheel back more than any other kit

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

My wheel shifted a lot with either their lower control arm only kit or a drop spindle.  The spindle was less but not much.

Posted
My wheel shifted a lot with either their lower control arm only kit or a drop spindle.  The spindle was less but not much.
I've never had that issue with just a spindle.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Posted
5 minutes ago, Nasty said:

I've never had that issue with just a spindle.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

Well apparently I am the exception because my wheel is quite a bit back.  The stock UCAs are adjusted as much as they can be and it is still back a lot.  Is there a way that the spindle could be installed wrong to cause this situation?  Not sure if the picture does it justice but this is post spindle.

IMG_20180808_181640.jpg

Posted
Well apparently I am the exception because my wheel is quite a bit back.  The stock UCAs are adjusted as much as they can be and it is still back a lot.  Is there a way that the spindle could be installed wrong to cause this situation?  Not sure if the picture does it justice but this is post spindle.
IMG_20180808_181640.thumb.jpg.e479296c2fe4f2c9a721878e36a25b18.jpg
This is with 4 inches upfront. The wheel moved back about an inch or sob8340447bc99c4a96d372eeb61d16d16.jpg583b137b956a2cfbfd332ba0e49922d7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
6 minutes ago, Nasty said:

That looks stock

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

Its not.  Picture isn't doing it justice.  Rubbing is only along the rear of the wheel well and occurs with just over a turn and a half.  Besides if it were stock then the IHC wheel movement was basically the same.

Posted
5 minutes ago, SirenRed16 said:

This is with 4 inches upfront. The wheel moved back about an inch or sob8340447bc99c4a96d372eeb61d16d16.jpg583b137b956a2cfbfd332ba0e49922d7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

That looks a little better than mine with only a 2 inch drop upfront.  Your driver side looks better than the passenger side in the pictures.  Is that what you see in person?

Posted
That looks a little better than mine with only a 2 inch drop upfront.  Your driver side looks better than the passenger side in the pictures.  Is that what you see in person?
Mine is the same. Drivers is less

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Posted
That looks a little better than mine with only a 2 inch drop upfront.  Your driver side looks better than the passenger side in the pictures.  Is that what you see in person?
When it was at 4 upfront yeah that's how it looked in person, since then I've moved up to 3 inches because the rubbing was bad. I refused to go with a smaller tire and I've never really checked the gaps ever since tbh

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
5 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Mine is the same. Drivers is less

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

Will the TMW UCAs fix that difference?  My alignment tech said he couldn't move the wheel any farther forward because the stock UCAs didn't allow it.  I ordered the TMW UCAs after seeing your endorsement of them because they are more adjustable.

Posted
7 minutes ago, SirenRed16 said:

When it was at 4 upfront yeah that's how it looked in person, since then I've moved up to 3 inches because the rubbing was bad. I refused to go with a smaller tire and I've never really checked the gaps ever since tbh

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Looks like you are running the 20" rims with standard tire size, correct?  I have 22's with 285/45 tires (stock tire size for these OEM rims).

Posted
Looks like you are running the 20" rims with standard tire size, correct?  I have 22's with 285/45 tires (stock tire size for these OEM rims).
Yes correct.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • When I had a Bumper subscription for a few days when I needed to run title histories on cars I was looking at, I decided to look up a few of my old/past vehicles.   My 2015 Silverado was still actively registered and it last sold in 2024 with 160k on the clock. No idea if that's on the original engine but someone's keeping it on the road or the original AFM stuff is still going.   It used 0w20. I remember feeding it Mobil 0w20 AFE for the first 30k of its life on <5k OCI's.
    • I can't say I have ever heard of someone getting that type of mileage out of a set of tires even though they rotated on a regular basis but without a doubt if the front end gets wear and those tires are no longer able to track straight it scrubs them off, and driving style and road surface make a huge difference as well.    However that is not what prompted me to comment as it was the new tire theme of sitting in storage waiting to be used scenario. I am sure some tires can last for quite a while in storage if its not too warm and out of the sunlight but unfortunately some tires the way they their rubber compound is formulated they can age and dry out even in a reasonably decent storage location. My brother ran into this maybe three years ago when he was looking at the tires that were on his dually truck and a combination of wear on the rear ones and noticing that the front tires had some cracks around the sidewall of the tire not far from the bead but he had replaced only the front ones not long ago with 2 of the remaining 6 he had left from the initial two sets of takeoffs he had all bought at the same time .... 10 years ago ! ( the years fly by, a truck that only gets used a bit to haul a camper during the summer and sits in a shed for a large part of the year ). That second set of 6 tires, two he had put on the front prior like I said and they had very little wear but those cracks were now present. So we go into the shed where the other 4 tires had been stored all this time and every one of them had the same cracks in the sidewalls and so in the end it amounted to throwing away 6 brand new but 10 year old takeoff tires into the dump that he got a deal on at a tire shop because they aged out. They were a Ford factory equipment BFG tire and those tires did not age well compared to some tires I've seen far older then that and did not show that type of aging. True, they always say up here anyway that 7 years is sort of a limit for age by rights, we don't have the intense prolonged heat that many of you have down in the states that just cook tires and depends on where the vehicle sits when not in use. GB, another words maybe had you bought a set of tires to store it would have been fine as long as you used them up fast enough but there are no guarantees when it comes to rubber, tires or of that other type stored in some guys wallets 😆
    • 2020 2500 HD...I had some trouble getting the key into the ignition switch but went in fine after applying some extra effort. Since then, the door chimes when open when the key is out of the ignition. Also, when I lock the doors with the switch on the arm rest, the driver door locks but then unlocks. (I can lock everything fine with the fob) The message on the little screen displays the "Engine Hours"...kinda weird.   I'm guessing something happened to the ignition switch and it thinks the key is still in there. I unplugged the batteries for 20 minutes, no change. There are a number of videos on YouTube but nothing I can find that address this specific issue. Ideas appreciated, thank you.
    • Based on what I can tell, yes.   As for updating it, its a mixed bag.  Updates do fix a lot of issues, but occasionally can create some oddities.  They do more good than harm though overall.     Here's what the most current one does and a  V171 Improvements Important: Improvements will vary by model, build configuration, system, and sales region. Not all vehicles have all features. OnStar and Wi-Fi may not work after remote start CarPlay may not automatically reconnect Part of the Driver Attention messaging screen may be in English even though the language is set to something else XM may not work After a dead 12V the radio may set to Arabic at each startup Bluetooth contacts might not be able to sync with the vehicle During an OTA the 12V battery may drain Customer might see a screen telling them to return to the dealer After changing the Wi-Fi SSID or password a device may not disconnect If a device is connected on the 2.4Ghz band, nothing will connect to the 5Ghz one, which could show as slow Wi-Fi speeds Customers might have noticed Wi-Fi dropping in certain areas and reconnecting later Customer might see the top of the screen blinking during Android Auto Android Auto may not connect CarPlay audio might momentarily cut out The "Add Phone" button may be grayed out The radio may not start up   V167 Most Notable Improvements:   Outside Air Temperature is incorrect. -You may see a popup message for Engine Shift. (Corvette Only) After changing the exhaust sound they get a popup that "mode change not applied", even though it was. -When changing volume, the volume bar is for Traffic instead of Audio. -(Corvette Only) Improvements to the placement of buttons and text. -If the customer receives the message "Apple CarPlay Could not connect", the cursor might move in the opposite direction than expected when using the control knob. -Android Auto automatically starts playing their music, even though they have turned that off in settings. -Intermittently they have a red OnStar LED with no OnStar function and/or no audio. -The minimum length of the Wi-Fi password was increased to 12 characters. -The popup message "Driver Attention Check, check your mirrors or Super Cruise will shut down" may not have come up on the display when it should have. -Startup animation added for 20th anniversary of the V-Series on Cadillacs. -The Navigation app received location improvements when going under long underpasses. -In the Navigation app there are filters for charging points that the vehicle cannot use.   V164 Most Notable Improvements Most notable improvements contained in this release may include: Apps Intermittently, an “SD Card Removed” message will pop up in the Navigation app. While in the audio app, the radio may stop working. Trailer Tire Pressure sensors may not be learned in the Trailer app. Not being able to return to the home screen while in the Camera app. After an ignition cycle, the radio might go to a black screen or stop working if using Sirius XM. Spotify icon truncated on Audio app.   SXM When changing power modes with the ignition switch, the HVAC pop up might appear. During startup, the radio will show the brand splash screen then go blank. Receiving a confirmation pop-up when changing drive modes. A “Return to Dealer” message may appear on the radio screen. SuperCruise setting toggle may not work. System After an ignition cycle, the radio might go black or stop working if using Sirius XM (SXM). Settings When performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working. After performing a factory reset, the radio may stop working when trying to switch users. When trying to go into the Language section quickly after startup, the radio may stop working. Projection Wireless CarPlay cannot be connected after unpairing another wireless Android Auto device. When the Android Auto screen comes up to connect wirelessly, the screen may freeze if the Cancel button is pressed. Removed the Apple CarPlay Cannot Connect screen when a device fails to pair during the autoconnect process. CarPlay information may not show up in the audio app. Near Field Communications (NFC) chime may be heard when NFC does not work. The Cannot Connect screen does not pop up after the first connection on wireless CarPlay fails. Apple CarPlay is now functional in Guam. Over the Air (OTA) When a software update is cancelled, the downloading logo may still be displayed. Energy When using the Energy app, the radio may stop working. When plugging in the vehicle, the display might show “Now” instead of “Charging Upon Plug In.” Instrument Cluster Voice recognition can be started while on an OnStar or phone call. When downloading contacts, there is a progress bar and circles on the Recents page of the cluster. The temperature on the cluster and the display may be different. After receiving and ending a call on the secondary paired phone, the cluster may get stuck on the phone menu. Bluetooth Intermittent Bluetooth connection loss.
    • Looking for help troubleshooting a metallic like front end rattle. Figured I’d see if anyone had thoughts before I schedule an appointment with the dealer.   The rattle is fairly loud and occurs primarily when the front driver side wheel hits a bump, even fairly minor road seams. Sometimes does it when the passenger hits a bump but I don’t believe when the rear hits. Rattle still occurs when foot is pressing brake peddle so I think that rules out the caliper rattle I’ve read about. I’ve also checked the running boards and they are tight.   Most noticeable at slow speeds.    Any insight is appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...