Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

simonsd0708 Enthusiast

simonsd0708

Posted
Posted


Went ahead and ordered them. Also ordered 1.5 inch drop shackles for the rear leafs, since I’ve already pulled the 1.25 inch blocks out of the rear, that’ll give me 2.75 drop in the rear and 1 inch drop up front. Should maintain just enough rake to make me happy, and the ride shouldn’t be too affected.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Installed the max trac 1” lower springs. Install wasn’t Terrible ( though I thought my spring compressor was going to snap) truck rides smoother, floatier ( don’t think I like that) and it sits about an inch- 1.25 inches lower. Perhaps they will tighten up as they settle. Overall I’m happy with the look, I’ll be doing the 1.5 inch lower rear shackles tomorrow


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Goinovr Enthusiast

Goinovr

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just FYI for everyone... I can no longer say anything positive about the IHC 4/6 lowering kit. I have broken both lower ball joints due to the extremely cheap Chinese joints used in the kit. This was confirmed by my shop. I have since had both lowers replaced with Moog joints but am stuck using the Chinese upper ball joints because they are smaller than any GM upper ball joint available in Moog. 

 

Total cost to fix the joints and associated damage and misc... $1700.

 

While the IHC crew had great customer service I can't in good conscience tell anyone to buy this kit until the various issues they have are adressed. 

 

Lack of QC - I had to slightly drill out one of my spindles to accommodate a missized upper ball joint. 

Lack of grease in ball joints - was told they were pre greased

Cheap materials - extremely cheap ball joints which becomes a safety issue. Luckily mine both sheered while reversing into a parking spot. 

20191122_080257.jpg

Edited by Goinovr
  • Like 1
Vulcan762 Enthusiast

Vulcan762

Posted
Posted
14 minutes ago, Goinovr said:

Just FYI for everyone... I can no longer say anything positive about the IHC 4/6 lowering kit. I have broken both lower ball joints due to the extremely cheap Chinese joints used in the kit. This was confirmed by my shop. I have since had both lowers replaced with Moog joints but am stuck using the Chinese upper ball joints because they are smaller than any GM upper ball joint available in Moog. 

 

Total cost to fix the joints and associated damage and misc... $1700.

 

While the IHC crew had great customer service I can't in good conscience tell anyone to buy this kit until the various issues they have are adressed. 

 

Lack of QC - I had to slightly drill out one of my spindles to accommodate a missized upper ball joint. 

Lack of grease in ball joints - was told they were pre greased

Cheap materials - extremely cheap ball joints which becomes a safety issue. Luckily mine both sheered while reversing into a parking spot. 

20191122_080257.jpg

That just sucks. And one of the biggest reasons stopping me from lowering my truck. Imagine that happening to your 7000 lb vehicle at highway speeds. 

UofAZCats Enthusiast

UofAZCats

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Goinovr said:

Just FYI for everyone... I can no longer say anything positive about the IHC 4/6 lowering kit. I have broken both lower ball joints due to the extremely cheap Chinese joints used in the kit. This was confirmed by my shop. I have since had both lowers replaced with Moog joints but am stuck using the Chinese upper ball joints because they are smaller than any GM upper ball joint available in Moog. 

 

Total cost to fix the joints and associated damage and misc... $1700.

 

While the IHC crew had great customer service I can't in good conscience tell anyone to buy this kit until the various issues they have are adressed. 

 

Lack of QC - I had to slightly drill out one of my spindles to accommodate a missized upper ball joint. 

Lack of grease in ball joints - was told they were pre greased

Cheap materials - extremely cheap ball joints which becomes a safety issue. Luckily mine both sheered while reversing into a parking spot. 

 

I highly recommend the Twisted Metalworkz Uppers.  They are fantastic and given the lack of confidence in the IHC kit it would be worth the $475.  They include the ball joint.

 

link: https://www.twistedmetalworkz.com/collections/control-arms/products/2008-2018-silverado-sierra-camber-correction-control-arms?variant=11703967285295

Edited by UofAZCats
Goinovr Enthusiast

Goinovr

Posted
Posted
11 hours ago, UofAZCats said:

I highly recommend the Twisted Metalworkz Uppers.  They are fantastic and given the lack of confidence in the IHC kit it would be worth the $475.  They include the ball joint.

 

link: https://www.twistedmetalworkz.com/collections/control-arms/products/2008-2018-silverado-sierra-camber-correction-control-arms?variant=11703967285295

I was looking at these last night. I like the captive inner ball joints. I added them to my parts list. 

Dinner Enthusiast

Dinner

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, Goinovr said:

Just FYI for everyone... I can no longer say anything positive about the IHC 4/6 lowering kit. I have broken both lower ball joints due to the extremely cheap Chinese joints used in the kit. This was confirmed by my shop. I have since had both lowers replaced with Moog joints but am stuck using the Chinese upper ball joints because they are smaller than any GM upper ball joint available in Moog. 

 

Total cost to fix the joints and associated damage and misc... $1700.

 

While the IHC crew had great customer service I can't in good conscience tell anyone to buy this kit until the various issues they have are adressed. 

 

Lack of QC - I had to slightly drill out one of my spindles to accommodate a missized upper ball joint. 

Lack of grease in ball joints - was told they were pre greased

Cheap materials - extremely cheap ball joints which becomes a safety issue. Luckily mine both sheered while reversing into a parking spot. 

20191122_080257.jpg

Honestly, I'm not surprised. @Nasty has preached this for the last 2-3 years and many other people running they're kits haven't been impressed. Belltech or MCG for life. 

  • Like 1
Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted

Another one bites the dust

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Goinovr Enthusiast

Goinovr

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Dinner said:

Honestly, I'm not surprised. @Nasty has preached this for the last 2-3 years and many other people running they're kits haven't been impressed. Belltech or MCG for life. 

I stuck up for IHC during that time but it was due to misinformation. The arms themselves are well built and my wheels are practically dead center but as @Nasty has stated, the ball joints are literal junk.

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
I stuck up for IHC during that time but it was due to misinformation. The arms themselves are well built and my wheels are practically dead center but as [mention=162984]Nasty[/mention] has stated, the ball joints are literal junk.
Did you remove the kit? If so I will buy it from you just the front arms

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

  • 3 weeks later...
Pt187 Enthusiast

Pt187

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry didn’t look through the 212 pages for my answer. 
 

I have a 18 Sierra Denali with the magneride. Thinking about getting the 2/5 maxtrac lowering kit. Anyone have  this installed?  How’s the ride?  Quality of kit?  It’s on sale for $360 right now so kinda questioning it. Never used any of their products.
 

Really I don’t even want to lower the front. Just want the truck level. The rear is sitting a little over 4” higher then the front. 

 

 

Edited by Pt187
Goinovr Enthusiast

Goinovr

Posted
Posted
On 11/27/2019 at 10:04 AM, Nasty said:

Did you remove the kit? If so I will buy it from you just the front arms

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

No. I had my shop put moogs into the lowers. The uppers are off size for any of the moog ball joints but had them put in higher quality upper ball joints. The kit is staying on for now until I decide if I go bags or not. My shop said the geometry of the arms is good but those crap ball joints are a liability.

UofAZCats Enthusiast

UofAZCats

Posted
Posted
On 11/27/2019 at 1:04 PM, Nasty said:

Did you remove the kit? If so I will buy it from you just the front arms

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

I have the IHC lower arms if you want those.

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
I have the IHC lower arms if you want those.
How much. I'm not gonna use them. I'm gonna just do some testing and modification to them to see how I can improve them

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

UofAZCats Enthusiast

UofAZCats

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

How much. I'm not gonna use them. I'm gonna just do some testing and modification to them to see how I can improve them

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

I'm not using them and don't plan to so $25 plus shipping.  That work for you?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,979 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • JAI3
      2016 Sierra 5.3L L83 new injectors now runs rich.

      By JAI3 · Posted

      I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Coastie05
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No, but don't skimp on safe! 😉 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Fix one problem and find another.   Truck didn't have a thermostat in it so I flushed out the system today and refilled with 50/50 Dexcool. This truck is so old (LOL) that it has a sticker under the hood alerting people to the fact that it contains such. There is also an orange supplement with the owner's manual alerting the owner that "Your vehicle is one of a number of late production 1995 General Motors vehicles that use a newly developed engine coolant in the cooling system..."   I was still a little flummoxed by what seemed like a rich condition (exhaust smell, and a puff of carbon with a punchy rev). While watching the coolant temperature and testing the thermostat with my scanner, I happened to notice the IAT (incoming air temperature) to the intake was -40F. I know the temp is below average today, but I can still feel my face, and I was wearing shorts.   D'oh!! I realized I had never plugged the IAT back in, and the airbox was out while I was doing coolant. So I paused, reinstalled the airbox and plugged in the IAT, and viola. Things cleared right up, and I watched the coolant temp climb to a reported 198 degrees on the scanner (195 thermostat) and then it dropped to 194 (open) and then back up to 198 and held. Let it cool, came back, checked the coolant level and was satisifed.   Victory lap?   It needed more than the couple of gallons of gas I put in it from almost bone dry, so I ran it up to the gas station. It had earned it, or, at least I was pretty certain I wouldn't be draining or removing the tank anytime soon.   CEL popped on just as I was cruising a nice steady 40mph, just after coasting down a slight downhill curve.. Of course, it did, because, why let me enjoy not having dash emojis for a little while.   I just happened to have the scanner plugged in. I don't text and drive but I might scan and drive. Don't tell the police.   P0401, EGR flow insufficient.    Well, hello, EGR... ...my old friend! Welcome to the party, now that the engine reaches the factory-programmed operating temperature. I'm sure it was gagging on hostile, rich exhaust and carbon this whole time so I'll take it off and look again.   At least it's easily accessible, and worst case, about $65 to replace.   To keep, or to sell... Hmm. I want it running correctly either way. It's easier to sell when there are no fault codes.   It needs tires (they're aged out and cracking)   It could probably use an oil pan seal, or maybe the timing cover gasket/ junction with the pan needs redone because I've got an issue there that leaves a drop of oil on the floor.   If I do tires I'm sure they'll say the ball joints could use freshening, and, and, and, and.... At some point I'll have to stop. I can't (shouldn't) make it perfect, that's not what this rig is.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...