Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
12 hours ago, 204-WPG said:

Have you tried 4/7 instead before getting new tires for now? My thinking is based on what you’re looking at 3/4-1” gap between fender and tires.

I don’t have a whole lot of adjustability In the front. I could probably come up 1/2 using spacers, but I really like the way it sits now. I know I’ll need new tires eventually to achieve the look I’m after.

the top of the tires is only about a half inch from the carpet liner in the front. 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

For Christmas I got the Roadmaster Active Suspension (RAS) to add to the leaf springs to help with roll and traction.  I haven't put it on yet because the system is designed for trucks without flip kits.  The system is connects the rear end of the leaf spring (which is not affected by the flip kit) to the middle section of the springs just in front of the axle.  With the axle sitting on top using a flip kit there is nothing for the front of the RAS to grip.  I think it will work if I put the stock 1.5" blocks in on the bottom side of the leaf springs.  Assuming the U-bolts are tensioned properly I don't think it would be a problem.  Anyone with experience or thoughts on this?

 

I would test this but I can only find one stock block from when I had the flip kit put on the truck.  Anyone have an extra stock block they could spare?  I want to use the stock blocks because they have the ridges on the ends which will hold them in place instead of sliding.  Hoping someone can help a lowered Chevy brother out.

 

image.png.e549de93e936738ee2c142e1891d41e8.png

Posted

Hello everyone. I have a 2018 Sierra 4x4 and I bought the Belltech kit 1017SP. I am going for a 2" front and 4" rear drop. I installed the 2514 - 2" drop spindles and the 25004 - Lowering Strut. The strut has all 6 rings in for a 0" drop. After I put the truck back on the ground I was very surprised to see it was not dropped at all. I thought the spindles would give me the 2" drop and the strut would allow you to drop it further.

 

Does anyone know what I did wrong? Do I need to set the strut for a 2" drop to get 2" total?

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, SeekAndDestroy said:

Hello everyone. I have a 2018 Sierra 4x4 and I bought the Belltech kit 1017SP. I am going for a 2" front and 4" rear drop. I installed the 2514 - 2" drop spindles and the 25004 - Lowering Strut. The strut has all 6 rings in for a 0" drop. After I put the truck back on the ground I was very surprised to see it was not dropped at all. I thought the spindles would give me the 2" drop and the strut would allow you to drop it further.

 

Does anyone know what I did wrong? Do I need to set the strut for a 2" drop to get 2" total?

 

Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks

Belltech 25004 struts are lowering or lifting struts. If it came with 6 spacers and you put them all in, you lifted the front 2" with the struts. Do you basically lowered it 2" with the spindles and then lifted it back up with the strut. 

If you only wanted 2" up front, why not just leave the stock struts?

Take half the spacers out and put them back in, that should be stock height. 

Edited by Daly
  • Like 1
Posted

eb9b9242d1a78c3b75ca1c107a96e031.jpg

17’ 6.2L 4x4. 3.5/6 Max Trac 2” spindles and adjustable struts. Moog 2wd upper and lower A-arms. Flip kit and lift hangers out back. Helper bags for towing. 22” factory RST wheels with stock size tires.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 6
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
eb9b9242d1a78c3b75ca1c107a96e031.jpg

17’ 6.2L 4x4. 3.5/6 Max Trac 2” spindles and adjustable struts. Moog 2wd upper and lower A-arms. Flip kit and lift hangers out back. Helper bags for towing. 22” factory RST wheels with stock size tires.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Damn I like that, I didn’t like the RST wheels until I seen this!
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Lots of guys wonder about these but never pull the trigger well I installed these in a RCSB that is lowered 3/5 to soften up the factory rear leaf springs and the difference was almost nothing.These are very simple in design replacing the factory solid shackle with what is essentially a damper so any Silverado lifted, dropped, or even stock height with a factory shackle geometry should be able to benefit from these.That being said I have felt bigger differences in ride quality with simple $80 shock changes than I have with these $440 shackles.The only minor improvement is in very slow speed vibrations under 30mph.Anything over 30mph with uneven payment, bumps, or pot holes the difference is disappointing. Hopefully if your on the fence about these you will come across this and consider spending your money on something that will make a difference.Just my own findings you guys of course are welcome to purchase a set to see for yourselves

1.thumb.jpg.f759a7c61dc22db8d65e8f160bfa0602.jpg

2.thumb.jpg.129e8c22728dd1bed5a825cbd7394021.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Honestly, those are really more for 1ton and bigger trucks with stiff suspension. 1/2 ton trucks aren't heavy enough for them to do much good.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
Well, after much deliberation and mathematical equations using the formulas at the Viking website and Ridetech's coilover formulas I found out that our truck geometry calls for a 12" spring with 800 lbs/in for a 1" drop by spring... so, no wonder I am still bottoming out even running the coilovers at 17/15... I ordered some AFCO springs at 850 lb/in, and if the Vikings can't handle them I will buy Ridetech's coilovers and use the Vikings on the rear once I do the 4 link suspension. 
 
As a side note, I did ran the 10" math, and they suggest a 1000 lb/in, but this is with the OEM LCA. I had no idea the LCA had so much influence on the spring rate of a car. 


Any update on the AFCO springs? Thanks for the input on Atomic; I’ll definitely be hitting him up. I do some occasional towing, so the 850# 12” spring sounds ideal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
57 minutes ago, NoLand said:

 


Any update on the AFCO springs? Thanks for the input on Atomic; I’ll definitely be hitting him up. I do some occasional towing, so the 850# 12” spring sounds ideal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I ended up getting the springs from Ridetech as the AFCOs were sold out when I placed my order, they sell the HyperCo springs. 850# is the right size for this truck if you want a stiffer suspension like I do, that said, I am using them with my Vikings and with no preload I am sitting around 1/2" higher than with what I was running before. If you are running stock ride height, or just lowered with spindles, the 600-700# range will give a softer ride (much like the old Cadillacs which I hate). I ordered the coil-overs for the front from Ridetech as well and will be installing them soon, they are around 1/2" shorter than the Vikings which will bring my ride height back to what I had before the springs. They are a monotube and single valve design, so they should perform slightly different, but I don't foresee any issues because of it. 

Posted

Hi, any information would be appreciated. I have an '18 Sierra Crew Cab 2 wheel drive and I'm looking for the best way to lower the front end just 1". I have already installed 2" lowering shackles and pulled the block out in the rear. I installed a 2° shim at the same time and it rides smooth as glass. It's 1"higher in the rear but I believe it would sit much better if it is lowered in the front to still give it a bit of a rake. I'm going for a "what factory could have done" look.

Posted

I think mcgaughys has an adjustable strut spacer that you add or remove shims from to set the ride height, I'm not sure what the smallest drop setting is though. Otherwise, most of the stuff I've seen out there starts around 2" which is a really good look on a truck with a 2/4 drop.

For reference, here's a 2015 with a 2/4 drop on 22s30a105acc430e3f5adc8c590661b1110.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted
8 minutes ago, lovelessjl said:

I think mcgaughys has an adjustable strut spacer that you add or remove shims from to set the ride height, I'm not sure what the smallest drop setting is though. Otherwise, most of the stuff I've seen out there starts around 2" which is a really good look on a truck with a 2/4 drop.

For reference, here's a 2015 with a 2/4 drop on 22s30a105acc430e3f5adc8c590661b1110.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

Thank you. I was trying to avoid changing the factory strut. in my research I guess a 2" lowering spindle and a lift spacer under the strut base is the easiest but wanted to see if the community has better ideas.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Indeed a proper drain tap or drain valve with adapter that has a hose on it that opens up the valve as the adapter goes on is a slick setup and have that for certain highway tractors etc and other equipment that came from the factory with a tap but this L8T is pretty darned good other than me doing it on the floor and easy to touch hot exhaust and am not as agile as I used to be !. If I really want to pull a hot filter on an engine I will use an insulated set of thick neoprene gauntlet gloves but I am not in the hurry I used to need to be so things are done more relaxed and in theory somewhat safer ... I think LOL.    And as I mentioned the unique shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers, while they might not work as well as an offset pour spout container for some awkward engine location applications, they are working a lot better with my Lisle funnel kit because of how they prop up on all four corners when upside down resting on the rim of the funnel where the typical quart container would never stay put without holding onto it. 
    • Well, I just hit 100K a few weeks back, and I can honestly say I have not had any major issues with my '21 5.3 Crew cab.  I have done most routine maintenance, oil changes, air filter, tire rotations, and a transmission drain and filter change (not even a full flush).  A couple of months ago, I started experiencing the dreaded CLUNK when coming to a stop, sometimes hard enough to literally push the truck forward! After researching here and in other forums/youtube videos, etc, I was thinking it's the slip yoke. I finally had a chance to take it to my local mechanic today, and he was not able to recreate the issue.  Amazing, since it does it nearly every time I drive.  He also said he can't simply grease my slip yoke/driveshaft splines, because I have a 1 piece driveshaft.  I am not sure what else I can do.  Has anyone else had this issue or have any idea what else it could be?
    • This is where the Fumoto drain valve comes in handy.  No mess and able to change oil hot, like right off the interstate hot.  Flows nice and you can direct it into a container. As for the oil filter, I use an old dixie cup or plastic one from McDonalds. It contains the oil as you pull the filter down and not all over your hand.
    • Well, if it did change from lifters to rocker arms, at least it would be easier to fix as they fail.
    • Doesn't hurt to try.  It's my understanding that you have to run it at least 4 or 5 oil changes for things to get clean.  Think about it, your engine didn't get dirty in just an oil change so over time it will slowly clean. It's the safest way to do it and not have seal issues.      I remember  a product that came out a long time ago, AutoRX, it was an additive you put in the oil and then drove for 3k miles. Some saw improvements and some didn't. It was suggested to use a non synthetic with it at the time. Same observation, use a couple oil changes and give it time to work. It also stated it worked best if you could drive on trips to keep the oil hot.  I'm sure if you ask AI it could tell you all about it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...