Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

No problem. It also looks like Amp is running the $100 rebate I got right now (their website says buy before 3/31/2016). The link to the form is here:

http://lirebates.com/WebAPI/rebateforms/7dd57247-cb0d-4a61-a859-7c594d459e70.pdf

 

I actually pulled the trigger on them and ordered them after talking with you guys. I saw that rebate too.. good looking out! :thumbs:

 

They actually were even just delivered within the past hour! Can't wait until I have the time to get them installed.

  • Like 1
Posted

Without digging through this entire thread, does anyone know of a running board that closely resembles that of the Ford Raptor? I would like to find a set that hugs close to the body, and offers some protection for the rockers from rocks and road debris.

Posted

Without digging through this entire thread, does anyone know of a running board that closely resembles that of the Ford Raptor? I would like to find a set that hugs close to the body, and offers some protection for the rockers from rocks and road debris.

 

check rhino RB-10

  • Like 1
Posted

check rhino RB-10

Well shoot. Guess I'll be adding that to my list of things to do. Thanks!

Posted

Just getting back into the truck scene. Haven't had one in about 12 years but with gas prices down I couldn't resist the comfort and convenience. :gmc:

 

When it comes to nerf bars, I understand that 3" bars are pretty wimpy and difficult to use but why would anyone need 8" nerf bars?? :omg:

 

Wouldn't 4" or maybe 5" be enough for just about any situation? Is there some rule of thumb as to what size bars to get? :confused:

Posted

Just getting back into the truck scene. Haven't had one in about 12 years but with gas prices down I couldn't resist the comfort and convenience. :gmc:

 

When it comes to nerf bars, I understand that 3" bars are pretty wimpy and difficult to use but why would anyone need 8" nerf bars?? :omg:

 

Wouldn't 4" or maybe 5" be enough for just about any situation? Is there some rule of thumb as to what size bars to get? :confused:

 

I had 3" Weston step bars on my 98 and they were fine, but those type of bars that are thin wall can easily be dented. The N-fabs I have are small tube and thicker so they won't just dent. I've literally had them slam against curbs a couple of times and not one dent or anything. I'm not saying to go for N-fabs since there's other good brands now, but I would just stay away from the thin wall stuff.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just ordered the Amp Powersteps w/ plug n play. Do I need to actually purchase the plug n play harness as well, or do they come with the steps?

Posted (edited)

Posted this in the "what have you done thread", but figured I'd add it here:

 

Didn't care for the AMP LED lights with the kit, nothing wrong with them, just wanted more.

 

Ordered this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151229687587?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

(5m of waterproof cool white LED strips for $8)

 

cleaned the area and wiped down with rubbing alcohol and let dry.

 

Tied into the AMP wire spots for the included lights up front. Ran them cab length underneath:

 

20141014_200655.jpg

 

And a night shot:

 

20141014_200828.jpg

 

Nice white light that isn't overpowering. Light is just right by truck.

 

This can also be wired up for those without AMP Boards too obviously, either in door tap (same spot the amps do) or in cab signal for the dome lights or something similar.

YES!! Literally sifted through 23 pages to find someone who did this hah have you had any problems with it at all? Also does it match the puddle lights or would it have been better to go with natural white? Edited by jnach
Posted (edited)

Just updated some pics of my truck of Amp steps up tight and down low :)

Edited by jnach
Posted

 

I had 3" Weston step bars on my 98 and they were fine, but those type of bars that are thin wall can easily be dented. The N-fabs I have are small tube and thicker so they won't just dent. I've literally had them slam against curbs a couple of times and not one dent or anything. I'm not saying to go for N-fabs since there's other good brands now, but I would just stay away from the thin wall stuff.

If I'm ordering online, is there any way to tell which ones are thin walled an which aren't?

Posted

If I'm ordering online, is there any way to tell which ones are thin walled an which aren't?

 

Not really, but most likely anything that's a round 3" or 4" will probably be thin walled. The style I had on my '98 I've seen big dents on different trucks including a buddy with an '06 Sierra which has the same bars I had on the '98 except his ends at the cab and mine was wheel to wheel. The main bar that runs along the rocker of my N-fabs are about 3" but they're thicker wall and kind of have to be to support the drop hoops and the person's weight pulling down instead of just stepping on top. I know the rocker bar part of the N-fabs are thicker because I lost a plug that plugged up the back of the bar (which N-fab sent me a replacement for free) so I saw that it was thicker wall. The thin wall bars doesn't really take a whole lot to not only put big dents in them but almost bend them. And I'm not talking about the brackets, I mean the actual step bar itself. I guess you just have to look at the style, the regular "old school" round bars will most likely be thin wall.

  • Like 1
Posted

I didn't wanna spend a grand on running boards, bought the Iboards off amazon for $160 and I actually like them a lot.

post-154120-0-40208400-1459441955_thumb.jpeg

post-154120-0-23337700-1459441966_thumb.jpeg

post-154120-0-40208400-1459441955_thumb.jpeg

post-154120-0-23337700-1459441966_thumb.jpeg

post-154120-0-40208400-1459441955_thumb.jpeg

post-154120-0-23337700-1459441966_thumb.jpeg

post-154120-0-40208400-1459441955_thumb.jpeg

post-154120-0-23337700-1459441966_thumb.jpeg

Posted

Found 5" black nerf bars by Lund on realtruck.com for $242. Went to autoanything.com who had them listed at $320. They beat the price by a $1 and there is a $50 mail in rebate. Great deal.

 

Sorry guys, unfortunately, the rebate is now expired. Still a good price without the rebate, though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...