Jump to content

Disabling Daytime Running Lights (DRL)

LTZTom

By LTZTom
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cowpie Senior Enthusiast

Cowpie

Posted
Posted

Or rain or fog. I fully support using headlights when it is prudent to do so. I use them on two lane roads where there are a lot of blind driveways and side roads. The slightest drizzle or rain, and i switch them on. Fog, of course. But I hate it when folks can't figure out to turn the damn things out when I am trying to back 70' of truck into a tight dock at night and I got their stupid headlights in my eyes while they wait for me. And the last thing I need is a 1700 lb bull to get ticked off by getting those stupid daylight driving lights in the eyes at night when I start my pickup out in a pasture. The arguments for such stuff is by those myopic folks that think the only way a pickup is used is by driving it down the road.

  • Replies 319
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

"I was a firefighter for 30 years" sounds like a qualifying statement.. if not intended that way, my mistake. And I never said you were evil. I clearly stated "everyone should be free to choose if the

VMaxtastic
VMaxtastic

Why? They're for safety. Not sure if you've ever seen the result of a head on collision... I bet you would change your tune if you did.

VMaxtastic
VMaxtastic

I'll take paying for a bulb over getting smoked by someone that isn't paying attention any day. Lots of people are too clueless to turn on their headlights in low visibility conditions.. I personally

Posted Images

kevin_nj Enthusiast

kevin_nj

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've disabled DRL and auto headlight function by removing the return spring in the headlight switch.

The dashlight intensity is still linked to the light sensor, so I can tell when the computer thinks the lights should be on. There are many, many times the computer did not think they should be on, when in fact they should have been (in which cases I had manually turned them on). During my morning commutes, my dash light intensity will cycle sometimes half a dozen times due to tree canonpy cover etc... The entire time, my lights should be (and are because I manually turn them on) due to the fact that the rising sun is behind me, making it more difficult for other drivers to see me.

I shake my head most days when I am following someone and I see their taillights cycle on and off. Or I see people in full dark with only DRL on.

 

THIS is why I am so strongly opposed to DRL, auto headlight, and other features similar to them. They make stupid and lazy drivers that much dumber and lazier, and give them a false sense of security. Just like the people that turn the wrong way down a one way road or drive into a pond because their GPS told them to turn.

 

IMO, if knowing when to turn your lights on when needed and doing so is such a difficult task, then perhaps you shouldn't be driving...

Edited by kevin_nj
  • Like 3
Mad Max Enthusiast

Mad Max

Posted
Posted

This is the Diagram for the under hood fuse panel on the 2014 silverado LT Z71

 

attachicon.gifScreen shot 2014-01-30 at 2.58.35 PM.png

 

attachicon.gifScreen shot 2014-01-30 at 2.58.46 PM.png

 

attachicon.gifScreen shot 2014-01-30 at 2.58.55 PM.png

Very handy. Which fuse block is this - drivers or passenger? Can you post both please?

DAP56 Enthusiast

DAP56

Posted
Posted

I've disabled DRL and auto headlight function by removing the return spring in the headlight switch.

The dashlight intensity is still linked to the light sensor, so I can tell when the computer thinks the lights should be on. There are many, many times the computer did not think they should be on, when in fact they should have been (in which cases I had manually turned them on). During my morning commutes, my dash light intensity will cycle sometimes half a dozen times due to tree canonpy cover etc... The entire time, my lights should be (and are because I manually turn them on) due to the fact that the rising sun is behind me, making it more difficult for other drivers to see me.

I shake my head most days when I am following someone and I see their taillights cycle on and off. Or I see people in full dark with only DRL on.

 

THIS is why I am so strongly opposed to DRL, auto headlight, and other features similar to them. They make stupid and lazy drivers that much dumber and lazier, and give them a false sense of security. Just like the people that turn the wrong way down a one way road or drive into a pond because their GPS told them to turn.

 

IMO, if knowing when to turn your lights on when needed and doing so is such a difficult task, then perhaps you shouldn't be driving...

Agreed, my 2012 Mercedes GL450 (x164) had the light control completely locked out. I wasn't even able to turn off the headlights without shutting the car off. It was some kind of a 'safety lighting package'. I'd cycle the light control and nothing would happen. Night or day, the control was completely locked out. Unreal.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

kevin_nj Enthusiast

kevin_nj

Posted
Posted

Agreed, my 2012 Mercedes GL450 (x164) had the light control completely locked out. I wasn't even able to turn off the headlights without shutting the car off. It was some kind of a 'safety lighting package'. I'd cycle the light control and nothing would happen. Night or day, the control was completely locked out. Unreal.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm curious, did you know that before you bought it? Not looking to bash you, just curious.

If I knew there was no way to bypass such a system I don't think I'd buy that vehicle. The problem is I see that becoming more of the norm, and my selection of vehicles to purchase will be decreasing.

TJay74 Senior Enthusiast

TJay74

Posted
Posted

I've never had a problem with my 2014 Sierra's light control, works fine and they come on just fine and go off fine. Our Audi SQ5 has an option in the menu to change if the auto lights come on early/normal/late.

blackalak Enthusiast

blackalak

Posted
Posted

Very handy. Which fuse block is this - drivers or passenger? Can you post both please?

Drivers side under hood, I wasn't aware there was a passengers side fuse block??

  • Like 1
Mad Max Enthusiast

Mad Max

Posted
Posted (edited)

Drivers side under hood, I wasn't aware there was a passengers side fuse block??

It's not the under hood one. It's the driver's side dash fuse block.

I just tapped into it. I believe there is one under the hood also. But I am having a hell of a time trying to find an ignition activated fuse to tap into on the passenger's side for use with my radar detector and dash camera, so as not to kill the battery when vehicle is unoccupied. Can anyone suggest one to tie into?

Edited by Mad Max
blackalak Enthusiast

blackalak

Posted
Posted

It's not the under hood one. It's the driver's side dash fuse block.

I just tapped into it. I believe there is one under the hood also. But I am having a hell of a time trying to find an ignition activated fuse to tap into on the passenger's side for use with my radar detector and dash camera, so as not to kill the battery when vehicle is unoccupied. Can anyone suggest one to tie into?

I tapped into one on the drivers side had to use a micro2 add a fuse deal like this https://www.google.com/search?q=mini+fuse+tap&safe=strict&rls=com.microsoft:en-US:IE-Address&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjVj8SBrarJAhVJXhoKHef_D8oQsAQIRw&biw=1920&bih=1052#safe=strict&tbm=isch&q=micro2+fuse+tap&imgrc=LYxagYpfa62X_M%3A I will take a picture for you later today

  • Like 1
Mad Max Enthusiast

Mad Max

Posted
Posted

I have those too but can't find the right location to plug it into! Looking forward to the picture and description of what the fuse does. Thanks Man!

xtremespeed2102 Enthusiast

xtremespeed2102

Posted
Posted

Which fuse on the driver's side was it?

  • 3 weeks later...
SheeB Enthusiast

SheeB

Posted
Posted

I did this after work and it took longer to get the fuse panel and trim piece off than it did to do this mod... eazy peazy!

 

RT

 

Hmm, any tips or tutorial on how to get this fuse panel and trim pieces off (as I've had bad luck breaking plastic trim pieces in the past). :(

silveradosid Senior Enthusiast

silveradosid

Posted
Posted (edited)

post-147128-0-77581800-1450544468_thumb.jpgdon't know if you want to do this, I have a 2014 Silverado with hid lights in stalled. put led strips between the headlights and wired as my diagram shows. with the addition of two relays my led's are my drl's and just for fun when I put the signal on it turns the led off an on when the signal flashes.

post-147128-0-77581800-1450544468_thumb.jpg

post-147128-0-77581800-1450544468_thumb.jpg

post-147128-0-77581800-1450544468_thumb.jpg

Edited by silveradosid
  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Huetatos Enthusiast

Huetatos

Posted
Posted

Can anyone point out the parking light wire on the truck harness for the headlights. My aftermarkets didn't come with a parking light wire oddly enough and i'm not quite sure I have the right wire. The relay I have isn't seemingly working correctly.

  • 1 month later...
RKeeper1 Enthusiast

RKeeper1

Posted
Posted

attachicon.gifUntitled59.jpgdon't know if you want to do this, I have a 2014 Silverado with hid lights in stalled. put led strips between the headlights and wired as my diagram shows. with the addition of two relays my led's are my drl's and just for fun when I put the signal on it turns the led off an on when the signal flashes.

Can you post a picture with your strips on during the day? Maybe ~20 ft back?

 

Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • TrueBlue
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?
    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      That's good to know, but I don't think I'll even be running them under 45 in the rear  unless it's on the sand or something but will only be for a short distance anyways!    I didn't read all the instructions in the booklet yet, but do you know let's say I set the rear psi on the placard to 45, will the warning light come on soon as it drops under 45 or is there a percentage it has to drop from the set value before the warning light is triggered?
    • newdude
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By newdude · Posted

      That's bad.  Like, its probably destroying the stub axle the CV slides into.   Do you have a proper lift installed with differential lowering brackets?  Did you install AT4/Trail Boss factory CV axles?  
    • PunchT37
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Hot? New Jersey? Today? I was working on my old 2000 Silverado 1500 today. Believe me, it was boiling hot today. As it has been.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...