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What are you towing with your 2014?


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Posted

Thanks Jon, good write up! But are the Timbrens, Super Springs, and Torklift Stableloads all solving the problem the same way as air bags? I like those options better simply because of their simplicity, but if airbags are the way to go, then that's where I'll go.

 

They'll all help the same problem but they will do it slightly differently. The Timbrens are dirt simple and will help, but they only will start kicking in once the rear has sagged some and might hurt offroad ride, etc. Various helper springs and add-ons to the leaf springs like the Stable loads and Super Springs can do a better job starting at normal ride height but aren't usually very easily adjustable.

 

That's the main reason I'm partial to airbags--they're so easy to adjust even manually you never need to suffer the harsh ride when running empty and never need to let the rear sag no matter how much weight you add. If you opt for an on-board compressor you can even adjust them as you're driving down the road!

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Posted

I have a 2014 Sierra 1500 AT with a 5.3L and a 3.42 rear end. I am looking at buying a 28ft travel trailer the weighs 4700 lbs. dry. I imagine I will add another 750 - 1000 lbs of gear to the trailer. I also plan to add a weight distribution hitch. I am wondering if anyone has experience with this type of load and can provide me some insight on how my truck will pull this trailer and if you think I should upgrade to a 6.2L. Thanks!

I have a 2014 Sierra 1500 SLT short box CC and am towing a Solaria 247RKES which loaded weighs around 6500-6600 lbs (verified at CAT Scales) and has a tongue weight of about 700 lbs. With the Airlift 5000 Ultimate air bags installed it tows pretty well. Also using a Equalizer weight distribution sway control which made a huge difference on top of the air bags.

 

We did a 2600 Mile trip to Portland/Northern California and overall I was very pleased with how well it towed. Only once I had some concern on transmission temperature and that was in the mountains around Yakima Washington. It was probably 95-100 degrees Fahrenheit and transmission was up around 219 degrees. Gas mileage was pretty acceptable as well considering we had 4 adults in the truck.

 

Edited: Truck has the 5.3L with 3.42 rear end.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Need some advice. I have a '14 silverado crew, 5.3, 3.42 gears. RC2.5 level and 295/55/20's. I'm looking at buying our first travel trailer. Looking at a KZ Spree 321BHS. Dry weight is listed at 6850 and tongue weight is 711 pounds.

Is this too much? I plan on getting a wdh. Am I still pushing it? Most trips will be short 50-100 miles. Love the truck, really like the layout of the trailer.

 

Am I crazy looking at one this big? Thanks guys.

Posted

I Have a Coleman 244BHS with a GVW of 7600lbs. My Tongue weight fully loaded ready to go is 1047lbs. Thats 13.77% of the GVW of the trailer. Actual weight of the trailer loaded ready to go is 6240lbs plus the 1047lbs = 7287lbs total for the trailer.

 

My advertised numbers were 5760 Dry and 749 Tongue. Which I just did the math is exactly 13% for tongue weight.

 

Your Setup ...basically...

 

Advertised tongue of 711lbs is only 10% of the advertised dry weight.

7900lbs GVW at 13% (tongue recomended 10-15% of GVW) = 1027lbs.

7900llbs GVW at 15% = 1185lbs

 

Biggest thing that everyone will say with our trucks is the limited payload. My truck's sticker says 1700lbs. That has to include me, wife, black lab, excessively growing 7 month old boy, bike, firewood, gas, running boards, canopy...etc etc. I have my loads balanced and I am right at my rated GVW. Was I always.....no. I was over. I've moved things around, set up my hitch better and Im happy. The truck towed fine, stopped fine. I tow 15000 plus lbs with a duramax dually at work and my setup felt every bit as stable as the work outfit.

 

With a level kit, you will be sagging like grandmas you know whats. And those big tires will have sucked any residual power you might have...

 

Whatever you do, dont let the sales guy tell you that the 800lb WD Hitch bars will be good enough because the "hitch weight is only 711lbs" Cant tell you how many times they told me that. Thankfully I told them to pound sand and got the proper sized bars and hitch myself.

Posted

I do all the time...works great (with NHT). 10,300 and just over 1,200 lbs of tongue. Upgraded hitch to curt class 5 to accommodate more tongue.

Posted

 

They'll all help the same problem but they will do it slightly differently. The Timbrens are dirt simple and will help, but they only will start kicking in once the rear has sagged some and might hurt offroad ride, etc. Various helper springs and add-ons to the leaf springs like the Stable loads and Super Springs can do a better job starting at normal ride height but aren't usually very easily adjustable.

 

That's the main reason I'm partial to airbags--they're so easy to adjust even manually you never need to suffer the harsh ride when running empty and never need to let the rear sag no matter how much weight you add. If you opt for an on-board compressor you can even adjust them as you're driving down the road!

Certainly agree with you on adjustability. My Super springs take about 10 min per side when I go from tow to non-tow season.

Posted

I do all the time...works great (with NHT). 10,300 and just over 1,200 lbs of tongue. Upgraded hitch to curt class 5 to accommodate more tongue.

How's the power and tranny?

Posted

How's the power and tranny?

Highest tranny temp I can recall (full throttle 199 temp tranny from stop all the way to 60) was about 210 with ambient in the 80s. Steady state cruising about 199 with occasional spikes to 205 depending on grade. Power...eh. Definitely not a 6.2 but I have zero problem keeping up with stop and go traffic or maintaining 60 with cruise. That being said....I'm still trying to sell the wife on a whipple (looks like the best cooling capacity of all the options) I don't tow above 60 because the china bombs scare me.

 

Found this on sister site regarding 6L80:

 

"In the February 2011 issue of Trailer Life magazine RV Clinic in response to a reader about the maximum transmissionicon1.png temperature allowed in a 2009 Chevy Silverado, the Tech Team had this response."

 

“General Motors’ in-house towingicon1.png team expert provided RV Clinic with this statement: The maximum allowable automatic transmission fluid temperature is dictated by the transmission oil itself. The oil begins to degrade significantly above 270 degrees Fahrenheit, so we design vehiclesicon1.png so that in all but the most extreme conditions, the fluid temperature in the transmission sump stays below 270 degrees F.

 

We allow for up to 285 degrees F in extreme conditions (i.e. towing a trailericon1.png with combination loaded at GCWR in Death Valley). But for customer usage anywhere else in the country, even at GCWR, transmission sump temperature should stay well below 270 degrees F. Above this point, certain internal components, such as seals, begin to disintegrate rather quickly. Although newer synthetic fluids can withstand higher temperatures we still recommend this (270F) as a maximum temperature. "

 

Posted

Highest tranny temp I can recall (full throttle 199 temp tranny from stop all the way to 60) was about 210 with ambient in the 80s. Steady state cruising about 199 with occasional spikes to 205 depending on grade. Power...eh. Definitely not a 6.2 but I have zero problem keeping up with stop and go traffic or maintaining 60 with cruise. That being said....I'm still trying to sell the wife on a whipple (looks like the best cooling capacity of all the options) I don't tow above 60 because the china bombs scare me.

 

Found this on sister site regarding 6L80:

 

"In the February 2011 issue of Trailer Life magazine RV Clinic in response to a reader about the maximum transmissionicon1.png temperature allowed in a 2009 Chevy Silverado, the Tech Team had this response."

 

General Motors in-house towingicon1.png team expert provided RV Clinic with this statement: The maximum allowable automatic transmission fluid temperature is dictated by the transmission oil itself. The oil begins to degrade significantly above 270 degrees Fahrenheit, so we design vehiclesicon1.png so that in all but the most extreme conditions, the fluid temperature in the transmission sump stays below 270 degrees F.

 

We allow for up to 285 degrees F in extreme conditions (i.e. towing a trailericon1.png with combination loaded at GCWR in Death Valley). But for customer usage anywhere else in the country, even at GCWR, transmission sump temperature should stay well below 270 degrees F. Above this point, certain internal components, such as seals, begin to disintegrate rather quickly. Although newer synthetic fluids can withstand higher temperatures we still recommend this (270F) as a maximum temperature. "

 

Sounds good, hoping the 6 SPD makes a nice upgrade compared to my 05, what are u towing camper? I know the boat is more aero which helps, actually I swear my 05 pulled the snowmobile trailer almost as hard as my boat

Posted

I loved the 6spd in my 07 denali XL and G8. Normal complaints about indecisive downshifts and such. (imo the biggest cure for this is steady pedal pressure...the more you vary pedal position the more inconsistent the performance) I'm pulling a 2015 Open Range 310BHS most of the time. When I pulled a uhaul tandem axle enclosed trailer (about 5k loaded) it was almost transparent performance wise and mpg was ~14 @ 55-65. Love the 3.73

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