Jump to content

Foglights On With High Beams

Spurshot
 Share

Recommended Posts

No Tyme Senior Enthusiast

No Tyme

Posted
Posted

I have read that the wires may be a different color but the position in the plug are the same. Best is to pop the plug and that will allow you a bit more flexibility to slide the diode in. Took me 3 times and 2 diodes but I did it...

  • Replies 796
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Spurshot
Spurshot

2014 SIERRA SLT FOG LIGHTS WITH HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHTS MODIFICATION This mod will let you use the fog lights on low beam same as factory. On and off with the fog light button. When the fog ligh

Spurshot
Spurshot

This was on the Duramax forum. I believe it is for a GMT 900. But the principles are likely applicable to a K2. Use this information cautiously. ------------------------------------------------------

Spurshot
Spurshot

OK, After struggling thru the schematics and online mods of past models all evening, I figured it out. This is for a Sierra and should be the same for the Silverado. It involves pushing one Diode in

Posted Images

2015sierrablack Enthusiast

2015sierrablack

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the response I've popped the plug out and tried it both ways been through a couple diodes now anybody know any info on the color wires being different?

polarys425 Enthusiast

polarys425

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the response I've popped the plug out and tried it both ways been through a couple diodes now anybody know any info on the color wires being different?

On page 25 I posted an easy way to install this mod, and how to turn this mod on and off at will.

Tong Lu Enthusiast

Tong Lu

Posted
Posted

 

2014 SIERRA SLT FOG LIGHTS WITH HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHTS MODIFICATION

  • This mod will let you use the fog lights on low beam same as factory. On and off with the fog light button.

  •  

  • When the fog lights are turned on while on low beam, then the high beams are either flashed or turned on and then off, the fog lights remain on when going back to low beam.

  •  

  • When the high beams headlights are switched on, the fog lights come on also. You cannot shut the fog lights off with the high beams on. When going back to low beam, the fog lights go off if they were off prior to switching high beams on.

  •  

 

  1. Find the BCM under the dash, just to the left side of the steering column, right behind and above the OBD2 connector. It's a black box about 7" square and an inch thick. It will have 7 connectors in the lower edge of various colors.

  2.  

  3. Pull the BROWN connector loose. There is a little tab you need to squeeze inward to release it.

  4.  

  5. Look at it closely, there are tiny numbers at the corners to give you pin location reference. Use my attached connector photo and the numbers on the connector, along with the colors of the wires to locate the proper wires.

  6.  

  7. Locate pin #10 with the Brown and White striped wire. This is the Fog light signal wire for the relay.

  8.  

  9. Locate pin #18 with the Brown and Violet striped wire. This is the High Beam signal wire for its relay.

  10.  

  11. Take a 1N4004 diode and push the wire lead of the diode in along side the wires with a pair of needle nose pliers. You need to push hard to get it to slide in about 1/4" so it will stay snug. Make sure the marked end of the diode (stripe) is toward the High Beam.

  12.  

  13. You can put a piece of electrical tape over the bare diode leads or you can slip a piece of heat shrink over the diode before you install it and shrink it after pushing it in. But there's really no need as these are switched Ground leads, not power.

  14.  

  15. Put the BROWN connector back in the BCM.

  16.  

  17. YOU'RE DONE. THAT'S IT.

  18.  

The BCM is behind this area

5bc60ec2-89aa-4310-b3b5-bb7d14a35302_zps

 

 

This is the BCM.

df22f6ea-7896-49b9-b37a-bb36448d7d95_zps

 

 

In this picture, my arrows point to the rows to intersect the proper wires.

BCMconnector_zps541da276.jpg

 

 

 

The diagram below shows the connector oriented as you see it in the photo above so you can locate the correct pins.

6c280c79-d670-4d20-94f0-dfdd92a90fe2_zps

x5connectorwires1_zpse0002d35.jpg

x5connectorwires2_zps5e989fdc.jpg

 

 

Rectifier Diodes are available at any electronics store or Radio Shack.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036270&znt_campaign=Category_CMS&znt_source=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT2032230

 

Which one is for the lowbeam relay, I don't see it on the chart. I did the mod for my 2008, the relays were just in the engine bay and super easy to get to.

chinookmtp Enthusiast

chinookmtp

Posted
Posted (edited)

Tried and Tried. Diode will not seat in fog light side. will go in High beam side all day long. Have broken all four diodes I had. I even trimmed the end. Tried with and without pliers. Tried with brown plug installed and removed. Mines a 2015 Sierra SLT. Guess this just isn't go to happen. I'm afraid if I mess with this connector anymore I'll screw up some of other connections. This sux, because with Hi beams on(which aren't that great anyway, even after new german bulbs and reprogramming of voltage at dealer) you loose all the extra light close in that the fogs provide. What a crappy set up for a 50K+ truck..

Edited by chinookmtp
wrc7732 Enthusiast

wrc7732

Posted
Posted

Tried and Tried. Diode will not seat in fog light side. will go in High beam side all day long. Have broken all four diodes I had. I even trimmed the end. Tried with and without pliers. Tried with brown plug installed and removed. Mines a 2015 Sierra SLT. Guess this just isn't go to happen. I'm afraid if I mess with this connector anymore I'll screw up some of other connections. This sux, because with Hi beams on(which aren't that great anyway, even after new german bulbs and reprogramming of voltage at dealer) you loose all the extra light close in that the fogs provide. What a crappy set up for a 50K+ truck..

Man I hear ya. It's just nuts. I too have had the TSB performed (much better, but not good enough). I'm even toying with the idea of trading in my '15 Sierra for a '16. Just crested 10k miles. I can't believe these lights passed modern safety standards. My '77 corvette had better headlights that the halogen projector setup in these trucks.

 

And I know there are ways to improve it (HID conversions, etc), but why should I have to do that these days. Fix these headlights GM. Grrrr!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BuyAmericanIron Enthusiast

BuyAmericanIron

Posted
Posted

Tong Lu, I did some research and was unable to find the low beam relay. Ended up doing the 10/22 mod which ties fog lights into the parking lamp circuit. On the 2016, if you turn on fog lights, it disables Intellibeam which is a very nice feature. Only possible issue is that you have fogs on at all lighting positions, Auto, Parking lights, All lights (low and high beam). Can't remember the last time I used parking lights only, so don't see it as being an issue.

 

For you guys having difficulty inserting the diode into the plug, try using a large sewing pin and sliding it at an angle into the corner of the connector at the selected wire position. This will push it to the opposite side and make room for the diode. Also, try cutting the end of the diode wire at a sharp angle with a pair of clippers. This will make a sharp point and help with installation into the back of the plug. Remember, you are trying to slide the diode along side the existing wire. Pushing it into a corner is your best bet. It should insert about half an inch when you find the right spot.

Tong Lu Enthusiast

Tong Lu

Posted
Posted

Tong Lu, I did some research and was unable to find the low beam relay. Ended up doing the 10/22 mod which ties fog lights into the parking lamp circuit. On the 2016, if you turn on fog lights, it disables Intellibeam which is a very nice feature. Only possible issue is that you have fogs on at all lighting positions, Auto, Parking lights, All lights (low and high beam). Can't remember the last time I used parking lights only, so don't see it as being an issue.

 

For you guys having difficulty inserting the diode into the plug, try using a large sewing pin and sliding it at an angle into the corner of the connector at the selected wire position. This will push it to the opposite side and make room for the diode. Also, try cutting the end of the diode wire at a sharp angle with a pair of clippers. This will make a sharp point and help with installation into the back of the plug. Remember, you are trying to slide the diode along side the existing wire. Pushing it into a corner is your best bet. It should insert about half an inch when you find the right spot.

Thank you, that's what I was leaning towards.
Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Just my opinion, but I didn't think the stock fog lights on my 2014 added any noticeable visibility when I did this mod. However, when I installed auxiliary driving lights, I wired a powerful wide beam set to the fog light circuit via a relay. The diode 10-18 mod then allowed me to turn on the auxiliary driving lights with the factory fog light switch and allow them to remain on when high beams were commanded. Later, I replaced the OEM fog lights with Rigid Industries DOT fog lights.

 

So, my current light setup is HID kit in OEM projectors, Rigid fogs, 2 Baja Designs S2 wide beams relay wired to the fog circuit, 2 Baja Designs S2 long range beams relay wired to the high beams. When I command high beams, all the lights come on. When I return the OEM hi-low headlight switch to low beam, they all shut off and the headlights return to low beam. I can also turn on fogs and the wide beam S2 lights separately by pushing the factory fog light button, day or night.

Edited by spurshot
Shredzy Enthusiast

Shredzy

Posted
Posted

FYI the programming to do this through the BCM the OEM way is now a reality ;)

 

GTPprix, tried to send you a message, says you can't receive any new messages??

 

Can you tell more of the programming? Send me a message?

BuyAmericanIron Enthusiast

BuyAmericanIron

Posted
Posted

I spoke to Anthony at MVI. He said the BCM can be re-programmed, but it is difficult, expensive and requires dealer involvement which can bring it's own set of problems. He said if you are close to him and bring it to his shop it is not a problem. In the end, he strongly recommends against trying to re-program the BCM. Just go with one of the diode mods in this forum and consider it done. I did the 10/22 and it works just fine for my application.

syd2315 New Member

syd2315

Posted
Posted

 

2014 SIERRA SLT FOG LIGHTS WITH HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHTS MODIFICATION

  • This mod will let you use the fog lights on low beam same as factory. On and off with the fog light button.

  •  

  • When the fog lights are turned on while on low beam, then the high beams are either flashed or turned on and then off, the fog lights remain on when going back to low beam.

  •  

  • When the high beams headlights are switched on, the fog lights come on also. You cannot shut the fog lights off with the high beams on. When going back to low beam, the fog lights go off if they were off prior to switching high beams on.

  •  

 

  1. Find the BCM under the dash, just to the left side of the steering column, right behind and above the OBD2 connector. It's a black box about 7" square and an inch thick. It will have 7 connectors in the lower edge of various colors.

  2.  

  3. Pull the BROWN connector loose. There is a little tab you need to squeeze inward to release it.

  4.  

  5. Look at it closely, there are tiny numbers at the corners to give you pin location reference. Use my attached connector photo and the numbers on the connector, along with the colors of the wires to locate the proper wires.

  6.  

  7. Locate pin #10 with the Brown and White striped wire. This is the Fog light signal wire for the relay.

  8.  

  9. Locate pin #18 with the Brown and Violet striped wire. This is the High Beam signal wire for its relay.

  10.  

  11. Take a 1N4004 diode and push the wire lead of the diode in along side the wires with a pair of needle nose pliers. You need to push hard to get it to slide in about 1/4" so it will stay snug. Make sure the marked end of the diode (stripe) is toward the High Beam.

  12.  

  13. You can put a piece of electrical tape over the bare diode leads or you can slip a piece of heat shrink over the diode before you install it and shrink it after pushing it in. But there's really no need as these are switched Ground leads, not power.

  14.  

  15. Put the BROWN connector back in the BCM.

  16.  

  17. YOU'RE DONE. THAT'S IT.

  18.  

The BCM is behind this area

5bc60ec2-89aa-4310-b3b5-bb7d14a35302_zps

 

 

This is the BCM.

df22f6ea-7896-49b9-b37a-bb36448d7d95_zps

 

 

In this picture, my arrows point to the rows to intersect the proper wires.

BCMconnector_zps541da276.jpg

 

 

 

The diagram below shows the connector oriented as you see it in the photo above so you can locate the correct pins.

6c280c79-d670-4d20-94f0-dfdd92a90fe2_zps

x5connectorwires1_zpse0002d35.jpg

x5connectorwires2_zps5e989fdc.jpg

 

 

Rectifier Diodes are available at any electronics store or Radio Shack.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036270&znt_campaign=Category_CMS&znt_source=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT2032230

 

Does this apply to 2015 models too or is it just for the 2014?

Paulybee Enthusiast

Paulybee

Posted
Posted

I just cut The power to my foglights then jumped them off my low beams. So now when I turn my head lights on. My fog lights go on. I used my fog light button to turn on a light bar. This is Good to know though. My light bar turns off when I put The high beams on. But it doesnt matter since it's so bright and my low Beam and fog lights are led I'll probably try this though.

I just cut The power to my foglights then jumped them off my low beams. So now when I turn my head lights on. My fog lights go on. I used my fog light button to turn on a light bar. This is Good to know though. My light bar turns off when I put The high beams on. But it doesnt matter since it's so bright and my low Beam and fog lights are led I'll probably try this though.

  • 1 month later...
WLC Enthusiast

WLC

Posted
Posted

Done the fog mod with the bright on.Helped but not enough.Replaced fogs with LEDs.Helped but not enought.Added a license plate mount from ACI with LEDs. Helped some more. Wired these straight to the battery with a remote control switch.Programmed one of the garage door openers to the remote also in case the battery goes dead in the remote.Installed LEDs in the headlights.Starnill from Amazon. Installed 5202 headlight bulbs in the fogs. Too bright for oncoming traffic with everything on but great on the back roads.This set up hurts in fog driving but makes deer stop in their tracks. Reflects off of snow also. Really cuts darkness. The upgrade with the volsa bulbs was no better than the 9011's I installed.9011's are pretty good also. Spent money and time but I can see pretty well now. Wife's Durango was great from factory.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...