Jump to content

Foglights On With High Beams

Spurshot
 Share

Recommended Posts

WLC Enthusiast

WLC

Posted
Posted

All this discussion about keeping fogs on with high beams must involve people in States where there is no yearly safety inspection or States with lax lighting laws. Failure of fog lights to automatically turn off with high beams is an instant flunk in WV, VA and likely a number of other States and even the existence of aftermarket, non OEM, lighting an immediate flunk in others.....had to rip out the aftermarket fogs moving from NY to pass NJ inspection. And automatic means no manual turn off switch, pulling fuses or bulbs either to pass inspection. If the vehicle has a fog light, it has to automatically switch on and off as per State law when switching from low beams to high beams and back.

True but lawmakers have never drove a Sierra ! I put 5202 headlight bulbs in the fogs and they come on with the brights. Added aux lights also to drive at night.Original lights suck on the sierras.
  • Replies 796
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Spurshot
Spurshot

2014 SIERRA SLT FOG LIGHTS WITH HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHTS MODIFICATION This mod will let you use the fog lights on low beam same as factory. On and off with the fog light button. When the fog ligh

Spurshot
Spurshot

This was on the Duramax forum. I believe it is for a GMT 900. But the principles are likely applicable to a K2. Use this information cautiously. ------------------------------------------------------

Spurshot
Spurshot

OK, After struggling thru the schematics and online mods of past models all evening, I figured it out. This is for a Sierra and should be the same for the Silverado. It involves pushing one Diode in

Posted Images

Thomcat Senior Enthusiast

Thomcat

Posted
Posted

True but lawmakers have never drove a Sierra ! I put 5202 headlight bulbs in the fogs and they come on with the brights. Added aux lights also to drive at night.Original lights suck on the sierras.

Or worse a '97 era Plymouth Voyager, the only vehicle I ever got rid of solely because of its crappy lights. Best were my Avalanches' with a 4 headlight setup with two of them low/high beams (like my old '60 Impala) so you could operate with 4 high beams. Of course on a pea soup foggy night on the mountain you can't use highs anyway or they'll white out the windshield.

polarys425 Enthusiast

polarys425

Posted
Posted

All this discussion about keeping fogs on with high beams must involve people in States where there is no yearly safety inspection or States with lax lighting laws. Failure of fog lights to automatically turn off with high beams is an instant flunk in WV, VA and likely a number of other States and even the existence of aftermarket, non OEM, lighting an immediate flunk in others.....had to rip out the aftermarket fogs moving from NY to pass NJ inspection. And automatic means no manual turn off switch, pulling fuses or bulbs either to pass inspection. If the vehicle has a fog light, it has to automatically switch on and off as per State law when switching from low beams to high beams and back.

 

These mods are easily reversed. And if one does it like I did, I have a hidden switch that deactivates it so they function normally.

 

No surprise about having issues in NJ, considering they don't allow people to pump their own gas..... Being too dangerous and all.....

jaymiles007 Enthusiast

jaymiles007

Posted
Posted

It sounds like the LED strip in your aftermarket light assembly has internal wiring that would need to be changed to do what you want.

Thanks man, I actually had to take out the headlight assembly today because I lost my turn signal switchback bulb into the headlight assembly when I tried taking it out. When I took the headlight out to retrieve the bulb, I spliced a couple wires and now my LED's run with my daytime lights! Thanks for the input, much appreciated..

  • 4 weeks later...
kgr Enthusiast

kgr

Posted
Posted

 

2014 SIERRA SLT FOG LIGHTS WITH HIGH BEAM HEADLIGHTS MODIFICATION

  • This mod will let you use the fog lights on low beam same as factory. On and off with the fog light button.

  •  

  • When the fog lights are turned on while on low beam, then the high beams are either flashed or turned on and then off, the fog lights remain on when going back to low beam.

  •  

  • When the high beams headlights are switched on, the fog lights come on also. You cannot shut the fog lights off with the high beams on. When going back to low beam, the fog lights go off if they were off prior to switching high beams on.

  •  

 

  1. Find the BCM under the dash, just to the left side of the steering column, right behind and above the OBD2 connector. It's a black box about 7" square and an inch thick. It will have 7 connectors in the lower edge of various colors.

  2.  

  3. Pull the BROWN connector loose. There is a little tab you need to squeeze inward to release it.

  4.  

  5. Look at it closely, there are tiny numbers at the corners to give you pin location reference. Use my attached connector photo and the numbers on the connector, along with the colors of the wires to locate the proper wires.

  6.  

  7. Locate pin #10 with the Brown and White striped wire. This is the Fog light signal wire for the relay.

  8.  

  9. Locate pin #18 with the Brown and Violet striped wire. This is the High Beam signal wire for its relay.

  10.  

  11. Take a 1N4004 diode and push the wire lead of the diode in along side the wires with a pair of needle nose pliers. You need to push hard to get it to slide in about 1/4" so it will stay snug. Make sure the marked end of the diode (stripe) is toward the High Beam.

  12.  

  13. You can put a piece of electrical tape over the bare diode leads or you can slip a piece of heat shrink over the diode before you install it and shrink it after pushing it in. But there's really no need as these are switched Ground leads, not power.

  14.  

  15. Put the BROWN connector back in the BCM.

  16.  

  17. YOU'RE DONE. THAT'S IT.

  18.  

 

Hi spurshot,

 

Is this mod likely to work on 2015 Sierra SLT also? I'd like to be able to keep the fogs on with highs. As long as it doesn't prevent operation of the fogs with running lights or lows...

 

Thanks!

Tommy Naron Enthusiast

Tommy Naron

Posted
Posted

 

Hi spurshot,

 

Is this mod likely to work on 2015 Sierra SLT also? I'd like to be able to keep the fogs on with highs. As long as it doesn't prevent operation of the fogs with running lights or lows...

 

Thanks!

 

I have a 2015 5.3 SLT and i did the 10 to 22. my fog lights are on when the lights are on, also when you unlock the truck they are on.

i love it set this way i never have to mess with the button, its just on. check in to the 10-22.

  • Like 1
Tommy Naron Enthusiast

Tommy Naron

Posted
Posted

To those who have tried the 10-18 do the fog lights come on when you unlock, or lock your truck with the remote?

i have the 10-22 and they come on when i unlock, lock the truck... just curious,

im guessing they would since the lights would be on in the 10-18 settings. thanks for the info.

kgr Enthusiast

kgr

Posted
Posted

To those who have tried the 10-18 do the fog lights come on when you unlock, or lock your truck with the remote?

i have the 10-22 and they come on when i unlock, lock the truck... just curious,

im guessing they would since the lights would be on in the 10-18 settings. thanks for the info.

 

I just did this the other day...10-18 so the fogs stay on when the highs come on.

 

One minor downside is that even if the fogs are off, when I switch the highs on, the fogs come on. But its not really an inconvenience; I just like to be in control of everything :cool:

 

But to answer your question, no, nothing has changed when I remotely lock/unlock - still just the parking lights flash.

  • 5 weeks later...
adam.busch Enthusiast

adam.busch

Posted
Posted (edited)

So this started when I got a Left Rear Turn Indicator Failure on the DIC and the dome light overhead switch not working. I took the truck in today and got it diagnosed. The diode mod, performed exactly like the steps in this forum, somehow shorted out my BCM. I can't believe that would have done it, considering several other things that BCM controls work without issue. Well, new BCM and programming repair will cost one $675 dollars, all because I forgot to take out the damn diode before going to the dealership. Anyone else have a solution for fixing the BCM outside of the dealership for cheaper? Anyone else have an issue with this modification causing things to not work on the truck? Hard life lessons.

 

 

sidenote: I also performed the footwell lights modification and I'm certain this somehow factored into the equation.

Edited by Adam P.B.
Thomcat Senior Enthusiast

Thomcat

Posted
Posted

So this started when I got a Left Rear Turn Indicator Failure on the DIC and the dome light overhead switch not working. I took the truck in today and got it diagnosed. The diode mod, performed exactly like the steps in this forum, somehow shorted out my BCM. I can't believe that would have done it, considering several other things that BCM controls work without issue. Well, new BCM and programming repair will cost one $675 dollars, all because I forgot to take out the damn diode before going to the dealership. Anyone else have a solution for fixing the BCM outside of the dealership for cheaper? Anyone else have an issue with this modification causing things to not work on the truck? Hard life lessons.

 

sidenote: I also performed the footwell lights modification and I'm certain this somehow factored into the equation.

 

 

Two cents comment:

Change may have had no effect, or in conjunction with another unrelated failure controlled by the BCM may have caused a cascade effect and crapped out other controlled functions of the ECM. Luck of the draw on how it fails...diodes nearly always blow open but if it shorted out instead, and/or in conjunction with another mod may have a damaging effect. Or leaving it in while the dealer did other diagnostic testing could have caused the damage. Even if you buy a new ECM it still has to be programmed by the dealer; a used one from an identically optioned same year, same model vehicle may work without reprogramming.

 

Why screw around, for less than $100 you can buy the plug and play custom wiring harness using GM connectors and never have to remove anything or play with it again?

gSwift Enthusiast

gSwift

Posted
Posted

 

Why screw around, for less than $100 you can buy the plug and play custom wiring harness using GM connectors and never have to remove anything or play with it again?

 

Have a link by chance? Thanks in advance

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...