2015 YUKON NOISE IN CABIN

Elripster · January 28, 2016

I drive a truck, 2015 LTZ CC. BUT, I find this thread interesting. The discussion about the buffeting reminds me of back when I had a Jeep Wrangler. In the summer I would remove the hard top and strap on a bikini top (on the jeep, not on me ). Anyway, the severity of buffeting from the canvas was highly dependent upon speed being driven and strength and direction of prevailing winds. If driving with the wind there would be very little buffeting. Into the wind or even a quartering wind coming across either front side of the jeep was worse. I couldn't drive very ling at highway speeds, would drive me nuts. Anyway, I'm guessing the problem has something to do with the long span of roof sheet metal. I believe I have seen it mentioned that the new GM suv's and trucks use thinner gauge sheetmetal than previously to save weight? I think that's your problem.

Yep, thin sheet metal that won't stick to the roof bows is definitely a huge part if not the problem.

Frank

yahtzee · January 29, 2016

Well, I am officially done. After 5.5 months of driving over 15 vehicles and attempts to fix my original Yukon Denali XL I found a truck that doesn't vibrate and has very minimal (acceptable, really) buffeting. I picked it up yesterday. It has 520 miles on it, of which 400+ are mine from lengthy test drives with it. It drives like I would expect them all to drive.

I'm unsure what my plans are moving forward as it relates to this forum and the Facebook group but i do plan on continuing to monitor them and assisting folks, if needed. Suggestion.....if you can go the buy back route, it seems to be the best deal in the end to get your vehicle replaced. They sell every new car thats part of the buyback process at triple net. This means a couple hundred bucks on either side of employee pricing. I got a pretty loaded Yukon Denali for $67k and buy rate on the lease. I got every penny back from my downpayment (first payment, taxes and small cash down) on original vehicle and GM paid all 5 of my lease payments on initial vehicle. I know my experience isn't the norm (and that's another flaw in this entire thing) but outside of time spent dealing with all of this I feel much better about sticking with this truck. Worst case, I can dump the lease through leasetrader.com and walk away.

I wish everyone here the best of luck. Keep hammering your dealer for assistance. Lastly, if you're considering a new purchase and it's between a small dealer and a volume dealer I'd go with the volume dealer. They have many more resources to throw at this. I ALMOST went with small dealer and there is no way they would have gone through all of this for me (and that's not a flaw with them, just a matter of resources).

Good luck!

Elripster · January 29, 2016

Thanks Yahtzee! My truck is back in the shop. Apparently the differential needs some work. We shall see if this helps.

I am about ready to get some urethane bar stock, cut some wedges, and put them between the cross rails and roof to hold it down against the bows.

Frank

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Cl Houn · January 29, 2016

Well, I am officially done. After 5.5 months of driving over 15 vehicles and attempts to fix my original Yukon Denali XL I found a truck that doesn't vibrate and has very minimal (acceptable, really) buffeting. I picked it up yesterday. It has 520 miles on it, of which 400+ are mine from lengthy test drives with it. It drives like I would expect them all to drive.

I'm unsure what my plans are moving forward as it relates to this forum and the Facebook group but i do plan on continuing to monitor them and assisting folks, if needed. Suggestion.....if you can go the buy back route, it seems to be the best deal in the end to get your vehicle replaced. They sell every new car thats part of the buyback process at triple net. This means a couple hundred bucks on either side of employee pricing. I got a pretty loaded Yukon Denali for $67k and buy rate on the lease. I got every penny back from my downpayment (first payment, taxes and small cash down) on original vehicle and GM paid all 5 of my lease payments on initial vehicle. I know my experience isn't the norm (and that's another flaw in this entire thing) but outside of time spent dealing with all of this I feel much better about sticking with this truck. Worst case, I can dump the lease through leasetrader.com and walk away.

I wish everyone here the best of luck. Keep hammering your dealer for assistance. Lastly, if you're considering a new purchase and it's between a small dealer and a volume dealer I'd go with the volume dealer. They have many more resources to throw at this. I ALMOST went with small dealer and there is no way they would have gone through all of this for me (and that's not a flaw with them, just a matter of resources).

Good luck!

Is there anything noticeably different from the ones that have that problem

yahtzee · January 29, 2016

Is there anything noticeably different from the ones that have that problem

Other than it drives like it should with no vibrations? No.

boazEarl8 · January 30, 2016

Was this one at the stubborn dealer? If so glad you found one and they came around

yahtzee · January 30, 2016

Was this one at the stubborn dealer? If so glad you found one and they came around

No. I drove a truck that I wanted at that dealership but it was a bad vibrator. Kinda glad - made walking away from them very easy. I ended up getting one from original dealer that came in recently.

The Zip · January 30, 2016

For those looking at the stoppers or seals on the liftgate, I've always noticed my automatic gate closes with a “double action”, meaning the gate closes down to the weather stripping and momentarily stops, then moves another 2 inches and pressure seals with the stripping. The other day I popped the gate with the fob and it only released the seal and then stopped, never did that before. I had to press the button on the handle for it to move, the fob did not move the gate. Once the gate went up and back down with the handle button, it reset with the fob but no longer had the double action, the gate just slammed shut in one motion. I got in the truck and pressed the gate button located on the roof to see what would happen and it may have reset something 'cause the gate again closes double action with the fob. Didn’t drive it after it slammed shut so I don’t know if it made a difference with the seal in the cabin. Again, this is just an observation and may or may not be relevant to issues on this thread, but mine has been closing with double action for 2 yrs and for my truck it's normal operation.

Wrench589 · January 31, 2016

For those looking at the stoppers or seals on the liftgate, I've always noticed my automatic gate closes with a “double action”, meaning the gate closes down to the weather stripping and momentarily stops, then moves another 2 inches and pressure seals with the stripping. The other day I popped the gate with the fob and it only released the seal and then stopped, never did that before. I had to press the button on the handle for it to move, the fob did not move the gate. Once the gate went up and back down with the handle button, it reset with the fob but no longer had the double action, the gate just slammed shut in one motion. I got in the truck and pressed the gate button located on the roof to see what would happen and it may have reset something 'cause the gate again closes double action with the fob. Didn’t drive it after it slammed shut so I don’t know if it made a difference with the seal in the cabin. Again, this is just an observation and may or may not be relevant to issues on this thread, but mine has been closing with double action for 2 yrs and for my truck it's normal operation.

Any chance you could post a video of the hatch closing? Would be interesting to compare.

Cl Houn · January 31, 2016

Other than it drives like it should with no vibrations? No.

I meant as far as the rear glass sealing or roof flex as compared to the bad ones

newtosuburban · February 1, 2016

I have been complaining about the cabin noise since we bought our Suburban a year ago. They first said it was a tire out of round. I had the service manager ride in the car with me and he acknowledged the noise. Then they told me that it was when the engine dropped to the 4 cylinder mode and there was nothing that could be done. Most recently, they told me it was the insulation and roof bows. They completed the repair on the roof with new insulations, etc. It did not help and I did not think it would. I feel confident that when the car drops to 4 cylinders it can't handle the weight of the car and the engine has to work too hard to pull it. All you have to do is step on the gas and it goes away. It does not happen when the car is moving at 65mph because it never drops to 4 cylinders. It usually happens around 35 to 40 and 48 to 53. My brother has a Yukon and it makes the noise but not as loud. I think this is because the car isn't as heavy. Ours gets so loud the keys in the cup holder will rattle. I have tried buying premium fuel and always keeping the car in 4 wheel auto. Neither helped. I suspect it is a major fix and GM is trying to avoid it buy identifying other areas as the culprit. I just can't believe that this issue was not discovered in the development of this car. I feel like a sucker paying $73,000 for a luxury Chevrolet SUV and having to deal with this. We had a Navigator before and we definitely made a mistake by switching to GM.

cltsig · February 1, 2016

Just throwing a few things out there.

-I had some wood in the back of my 2016 Yukon Denail and had the rear lift gate open while driving home. The exhaust noise coming in from the open hatch was almost unbearable, especially when it dropped into V4 mode. I was absolutely shocked how loud it was. Maybe the ANC can't cancel this out in some cars which causes the buffetting? Or maybe vibration plus this noise is too much?

-I was testing the video with my son (setting up headphones, etc.). The drivers side door was open with the keys in the ignition, so I stopped the dinging by closing the door. I believe the rear door was open too because I stored the headphones back there. Anyway, when I closed the door I had the EXACT same boom occur that happens at slow speeds over uneven pavement. It was exactly the same. I never noticed it before while closing the door. This is one of the few times the stereo (ANC) was on and the door was slammed. Not sure if the hatch open mattered but dang, that boom was annoying.

I think GM testing relied too heavily on the ANC to cancel out annoying sounds. It doesn't appear to be working correctly in some vehicles. Again, my .02.

ajs800 · February 2, 2016

Just throwing a few things out there.

-I had some wood in the back of my 2016 Yukon Denail and had the rear lift gate open while driving home. The exhaust noise coming in from the open hatch was almost unbearable, especially when it dropped into V4 mode. I was absolutely shocked how loud it was. Maybe the ANC can't cancel this out in some cars which causes the buffetting? Or maybe vibration plus this noise is too much?

-I was testing the video with my son (setting up headphones, etc.). The drivers side door was open with the keys in the ignition, so I stopped the dinging by closing the door. I believe the rear door was open too because I stored the headphones back there. Anyway, when I closed the door I had the EXACT same boom occur that happens at slow speeds over uneven pavement. It was exactly the same. I never noticed it before while closing the door. This is one of the few times the stereo (ANC) was on and the door was slammed. Not sure if the hatch open mattered but dang, that boom was annoying.

I think GM testing relied too heavily on the ANC to cancel out annoying sounds. It doesn't appear to be working correctly in some vehicles. Again, my .02.

I am not saying the ANC does not have issues, but I don't believe it's the culprit for either the booming or buffeting as many models were designed without the ANC option. To my knowledge only the denali, caddy, and LTZ trim levels have the ANC.

Wrench589 · February 2, 2016

I am not saying the ANC does not have issues, but I don't believe it's the culprit for either the booming or buffeting as many models were designed without the ANC option. To my knowledge only the denali, caddy, and LTZ trim levels have the ANC.

Yes, that is my understanding too. Plus, I've removed the fuse to the entire audio amplifier and the low speed booming and higher speed buffeting was not changed - just as prevalent.

Also, I believe the ANC doesn't engage until a certain vehicle speed is reached. Not sure about this one, but I think that came up a while back when we were heavily focussed on the ANC.

xspecmor · February 2, 2016

Hi

I have previously posted here my 2015 Yukon SLE dose not exhibit any buffetting or vibration noise. There is a light boom when i go over object at slow speeds such as reflectors in the road. I noticed when i drive at reg speed and on rough surfaces there are no noises at all very smooth and quiet. I think alot of people dont think twice about these noise especially with the radio on

I have heard several people mention adding dynmat to the roof area to help deaden the sound maybe this something GM needs to look into.

With my particular vehicle I noticed a couple of things

1) the molding was poorly done in the rear door areas on one side you see the molding sticking out that should be sealed around the window and the other side the molding is just loose.

2) the plastic trim near the windows on my vehicle are very flimsy and I have 2 that are loose I have noticed on other Tahoe and Yukon where the whole piece was off. In the previous generation vehicles the doors accept around the windows.