Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

With My 2016 Lt I don't have and vibrations of wind noises at high speeds just pressure in my ears as the speeds increase. , I get the booming sounds when going over bumps and uneven pavement at speeds between 5mph and 50 mph.. I also have booming and drone/ Ear pressure when the vehicle is in v4 mode. i ended up driving to the gas station earlier in Manual M5 and had no drone and it reduced the booming by about 70% I wish Gm could figure this out. Im still in the process with Gm trying to trade it in for a different one.

Edited by Ozzii
Posted

With My 2016 Lt I don't have and vibrations of wind noises at high speeds just pressure in my ears as the speeds increase. , I get the booming sounds when going over bumps and uneven pavement at speeds between 5mph and 50 mph.. I also have booming and drone/ Ear pressure when the vehicle is in v4 mode. i ended up driving to the gas station earlier in Manual M5 and had no drone and it reduced the booming by about 70% I wish Gm could figure this out. Im still in the process with Gm trying to trade it in for a different one.

If it is the V4 mode that is causing the major issues on yours, have you ever considered testing the Range AFM defeat module? I ran one on my old Tahoe for over 3 years without issue, but that was because of the dreaded piston-slap problem that would develop on the older 5.3s. Might be worth a shot.

https://www.rangetechnology.com/pages/v8

Posted

They definitely not the same thing. Completely different frequencies.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

Have you taken measurements? What frequencies did you measure?

Posted

Has this problem resolved by GM for 2016 ? Is limited to XL models or are all versions affected ?

 

I really like the Yukon and I am still planning to buy one since there is very little alternatives, but this thread make me think it might be better to delay

until the 2017 come out and there is a fix.

Posted

Has this problem resolved by GM for 2016 ? Is limited to XL models or are all versions affected ?

 

I really like the Yukon and I am still planning to buy one since there is very little alternatives, but this thread make me think it might be better to delay

until the 2017 come out and there is a fix.

 

 

No. It still exists in model year 2016's.

Posted

Has anyone done this yet

I've done 2 out of the 3. I remov d the fuse from the audio amp, and it made no difference to the buffeting and drone. So, rule out ANC.

 

I also put the transmission in manual and selected 5th gear, and again no improvement.

Posted

Just curious while looking at the GM sales numbers with 24.000 Tahoe, Yukons, Escalades sold in December 2015, does the buffeting problem happens only to a very small percentage of those trucks or do they all have it more or less ?

 

Has GM eventually fixed it now since most posts are for 2015 models ?

Posted (edited)

Just curious while looking at the GM sales numbers with 24.000 Tahoe, Yukons, Escalades sold in December 2015, does the buffeting problem happens only to a very small percentage of those trucks or do they all have it more or less ?

 

Has GM eventually fixed it now since most posts are for 2015 models ?

 

Someone replied to you earlier

 

It still exists on the 16s

 

I felt booms and buffets on every one I test drove (>10 all 2016s) and vibrations on maybe half of them

 

Booms and buffets to different degrees

Edited by boazEarl8
Posted

Any report back of the survey yet

 

59 responses, 33 of those from SUV owners. See links in signature for details.

Posted

 

Nearly a year has past since Wrench asked this, but could we revisit this? Could those with crossbars please report in? Do crossbars, or things attached to them, influence buffeting? Does anyone here use cargo boxes? Is there anyone with crossbars that does not experience buffeting?

 

My updates: The raised 3rd row seat is one thing that changed with the new K2XX SUVs. I folded a towel lengthwise [4 layers] and placed it in the hatch as shown in the attached picture. The hatch closed snugly but there was no difference in buffeting. Interestingly, I was able to pull the towel out from the inside of the hatch. So, the hatch and the angled shelf are not making contact. They're not even that close!

 

I also drove down a snow covered street with with the rear glass open and then again with the hatch open. No change to the booming. I was not willing or able to drive it up to the 40mph buffeting sweet spot to see if it changed with either open.

 

My Yukon has another date with a field engineer on Tuesday and it'll be in the shop for at least 2 days, I'm told. He'll be focusing on the hatch, exhaust [?] and maybe crossbars. [i don't have crossbars, but will need them if I keep the Yukon.]

 

~2 months until my annual 1,500 mile drive to warm Florida with the brood. I'd like it to be a buffeting free drive!

 

 

I have to go revisit, but I could swear that I felt very minimal booming on my test drive (with cross bars attached) and seemed worse after I had them removed prior to delivery since I assumed more turbulent air (driven by cross bars) would make the issue worse

 

Thank you for driving with the rear open, mine is at the dealer for an unrelated issue

 

 

I installed crossbars on our XL SLT in hopes that it would reduce the buffeting and NO such luck. It might have reduced it some but for the most part there has been little change. Dropping down from the 22" denali wheels to 20 and road force balancing has made the most improvement. My plan is to have the roof bows reattached (they are clearly apart as the sheet metal taps against them when hitting from the exterior) and to order a set of michelin tires to replace the oem 20 tires.

Posted

 

Nearly a year has past since Wrench asked this, but could we revisit this? Could those with crossbars please report in? Do crossbars, or things attached to them, influence buffeting? Does anyone here use cargo boxes? Is there anyone with crossbars that does not experience buffeting?

 

My updates: The raised 3rd row seat is one thing that changed with the new K2XX SUVs. I folded a towel lengthwise [4 layers] and placed it in the hatch as shown in the attached picture. The hatch closed snugly but there was no difference in buffeting. Interestingly, I was able to pull the towel out from the inside of the hatch. So, the hatch and the angled shelf are not making contact. They're not even that close!

 

I also drove down a snow covered street with with the rear glass open and then again with the hatch open. No change to the booming. I was not willing or able to drive it up to the 40mph buffeting sweet spot to see if it changed with either open.

 

My Yukon has another date with a field engineer on Tuesday and it'll be in the shop for at least 2 days, I'm told. He'll be focusing on the hatch, exhaust [?] and maybe crossbars. [i don't have crossbars, but will need them if I keep the Yukon.]

 

~2 months until my annual 1,500 mile drive to warm Florida with the brood. I'd like it to be a buffeting free drive!

 

2016 Suburban LT Cross Bars, 2nd row buckets, 18" wheels 3700 miles (CA city and highways, Oregon gravel roads and snow)

 

I supposed I am one of the few on the list with no vibrations or buffeting but I do get the 4v noise.

 

I have hauled 4 6-8' Christmas trees on the roof 600 miles and the net result was about 3 mpg less than without the trees.

 

Just for the hell of it, you guys might ask the dealers to let you try out a set of 18" wheels. I went with these because our ranch in Oregon has a lot of gravel and dirt roads and I know that the low profile 20 & 22's would be beat up in this environment. The 18" wheels have a higher profile tire that absorbs a bit more road imperfections and might have an impact on NVH (noise, vibration and harshness) although the Goodyear Assurance Fuel max tires are not my favorite.

 

Jim

Posted

I drive a truck, 2015 LTZ CC. BUT, I find this thread interesting. The discussion about the buffeting reminds me of back when I had a Jeep Wrangler. In the summer I would remove the hard top and strap on a bikini top (on the jeep, not on me :) ). Anyway, the severity of buffeting from the canvas was highly dependent upon speed being driven and strength and direction of prevailing winds. If driving with the wind there would be very little buffeting. Into the wind or even a quartering wind coming across either front side of the jeep was worse. I couldn't drive very ling at highway speeds, would drive me nuts. Anyway, I'm guessing the problem has something to do with the long span of roof sheet metal. I believe I have seen it mentioned that the new GM suv's and trucks use thinner gauge sheetmetal than previously to save weight? I think that's your problem.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a 2018 Silverado Custom with 156k on the odometer. In the last month I've replaced the plugs, wires and the driver side engine mount. My wife just returned from a trip of about 1500 miles and told me the brakes are making a grinding noise when applied. I drove it and looked it over and this is what I found with the driver's side rear rotor.   I'm going to order new pads and check about having the rotor resurfaced. Hopefully this is easier than the last 2 jobs.   Peace  
    • Any update if the new valve cover help with the oil consumption?  I have a 2014 GMC sierra and my truck is consuming a lot of oil so I’m wondering if replacing the driver side valve cover will stop some of the oil consumption. Thanks 
    • I bought belts and pulleys for my '20 L5P at Rock Auto a couple years ago. I have used them for many years, and almost always save significant money, especially when I buy maintenance stuff ahead of time.   They carry many OEM parts, which is all I use unless an aftermarket is shown to be same/superior, or if it is an insignificant part or unavailable OEM part anywhere else. RA is usually lower priced, often by a bunch, but parts are sometimes unavailable or out of stock, and I do shop around and sometimes find better prices at other sites.   Be aware that you pay shipping, and if you buy multiple items and they are coming from different warehouses, the shipping can kill the advantage. Planning ahead is best if possible.   If you have a transmission service in the near future, check out their OEM (AC Delco ULV) fluid, usually MUCH less than anywhere else.
    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...