Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This is awesome with Towing Mirrors that have Cargo lamps too!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Just did this mod yesterday, and it is awesome.

 

I wondered if having the upper cargo lamps on would reflect too much light when reversing, but they don't at all. And those combined with the mirror lights, increase camera visibility immensely.

  • Like 1
Posted

Just did this mod yesterday, and it is awesome.

 

I wondered if having the upper cargo lamps on would reflect too much light when reversing, but they don't at all. And those combined with the mirror lights, increase camera visibility immensely.

Also great if you have bed lights too!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I do have bed lights and that just adds to it.

 

I used a 1N5408 diode, which is a 3 amp diode, but it has slightly smaller diameter legs compared to the 1N4004 (1.3mm to 2.3mm) which makes it easier to insert beside the crimped connector. It stays in place well.

 

I ordered 20 of them and I'm going to keep an extra, so I have 18 that I'd be willing to send anyone that needs them. Just PM me your address and I'll drop one in the mail to you. Free of charge!

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I did the mod for the cargo lights to come on with the reverse lights. Love it. Cargo light switch illuminates when the truck is in reverse.

 

Of those that have done the mod the other direction (reverse lights on with cargo light switch), what all have you noticed about turning on the cargo lights? Does the backup camera come online? Engine running or not? Or any other quirks that you've noticed since the mod?

Edited by Ravenkeeper
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Has anyone doing this mod, or a version of it, find the location where the towing mirror cargo leds are tied into the rest of the cargo light circuit?

 

The upfitters guide says J302 under the left instrument cluster... That is not really too helpful as there is a mile of bundled wire under there....

 

I REALLY want to switch the use of these leds with a SPDT so they are Normal/Off/Reverse. I have a more complex but more useful control of my cargo lights operated by my backup lights and a latching timer circuit but that is only for my bed cargo lamps, as I cant find where I can turn off those annoying mirror LEDS separate from the high mount cargo light (which I would also like on with my circuit)

 

Anyone able to help?

Posted

Has anyone doing this mod, or a version of it, find the location where the towing mirror cargo leds are tied into the rest of the cargo light circuit?

 

The upfitters guide says J302 under the left instrument cluster... That is not really too helpful as there is a mile of bundled wire under there....

 

I REALLY want to switch the use of these leds with a SPDT so they are Normal/Off/Reverse. I have a more complex but more useful control of my cargo lights operated by my backup lights and a latching timer circuit but that is only for my bed cargo lamps, as I cant find where I can turn off those annoying mirror LEDS separate from the high mount cargo light (which I would also like on with my circuit)

 

Anyone able to help?

 

 

They are considered "Puddle Lights," GRY8 on the BCM. Run the diode from BRN26 to GRY8, stripe end in GRY8. You may need to jumper PNK26 to GRY8, as well. I think that PGamboa did this with his tow mirrors, he can confirm these, when he checks in.

Posted

Ravenkeeper, thanks for the info, but tow mirrow lights are not puddle lights but blinding backup lights. I want to keep these off most times. I need to isolate them from the factory cargo lamp circuit.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted

Ravenkeeper, thanks for the info, but tow mirrow lights are not puddle lights but blinding backup lights. I want to keep these off most times. I need to isolate them from the factory cargo lamp circuit.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Puddle Lamps and Cargo Lamps are two different circuits. In the BCM, the Brown Plug (X6) - Pin 26 is the Cargo Lamp circuit that BCM switches on/off - BUT, if you look at the diagram, it is a ground circuit that is being switched. That's treason why the diode faces towards the Pin 26 of the Pink Plug.

 

812f37b74d31307c1bb4c4f98eb2ece5.png

 

5ade56f66a7356ea7bd5867b72506d51.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Pgamboa, I understand the circuit. I wired my cargo circuit to back feed from the trailer backup light circuit and a timer based button in the bed. I installed a diode to prevent the cargo circuit I designed from feeding the center high and mirrors.

 

In an ideal design, I would like to include the center high light in my cargo light circuit but keep the mirror leds from coming on. A passenger compartment mounted double pole single throw switch would work prefect IF I can find where J302 is located.

 

I was hoping there was a gm tech on here that would have access to the harness routing drawing to tell me where J302 is located. Per the upfitter guide, this is where the center high cargo light is tied to the towing cargo light circuit.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Posted

Puddle Lamps and Cargo Lamps are two different circuits. In the BCM, the Brown Plug (X6) - Pin 26 is the Cargo Lamp circuit that BCM switches on/off - BUT, if you look at the diagram, it is a ground circuit that is being switched. That's treason why the diode faces towards the Pin 26 of the Pink Plug.

 

812f37b74d31307c1bb4c4f98eb2ece5.png

 

5ade56f66a7356ea7bd5867b72506d51.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep. I had others ask why the diode was facing the way it was and thought is was a battery + switched circuit. So took that opportunity to explain.

 

Good luck finding J302. I have not been able to intentionally find any jumper harnesses. Lol. Always by accident.

 

Upfitter says "J302 is in the passenger compartment, under the left side of the instrument panel"... lol. Whatever that means. Most harnesses have a harness routing diagram but this one does not.

 

Good luck, hope you can find what you're looking for.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Yea, I think maybe my fox and hound toner might be able to help with this. There might be quite a bit that tones though considering this circuit goes EVERYWHERE ;-)

 

Thanks again for your help guys

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Alright so I’ve been really wanting to do the cargo light - reverse light mod but i can’t find the right wires in the BCM. I can’t tell if the original post is for a NNNBS, but I have a NNBS. 2011 Silverado 1500 Z71 if that makes a difference. I’ve searched all over google and can’t find a diagram. Here’s a picture of what my BCM wires look like. The site won’t let me load more than one pic. Any ideas? 

8C7BA7D4-9AD3-49CE-9E9F-F082AB7A15F2.jpeg

Edited by Hswerdloff
Posted

I  had an issue with getting this to work. I bought the 1N4004 diodes (chinese got a 25 pack for like $1.25). I put them into the pins that people above mentioned but it did not do anything. i have them in as far down as possible on both sides. Is there something that i probably missed? Or maybe just one bad diode? i have not tried any others yet

Posted
38 minutes ago, Hswerdloff said:

Alright so I’ve been really wanting to do the cargo light - reverse light mod but i can’t find the right wires in the BCM. I can’t tell if the original post is for a NNNBS, but I have a NNBS. 2011 Silverado 1500 Z71 if that makes a difference. I’ve searched all over google and can’t find a diagram. Here’s a picture of what my BCM wires look like. The site won’t let me load more than one pic. Any ideas? 

8C7BA7D4-9AD3-49CE-9E9F-F082AB7A15F2.jpeg

I do not have an answer for you but what happened to your wires? 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have A 2020 1500 5.3 8 speed. LTZ. Transmission problems since 60,000 miles. Started when I go to store in morning to get my morning coffee before work leave truck running get back in put it in drive/ rev no movement step on gas a little slams into gear. Put in neutral step on gas little shake then put in gear and gose.  Shut truck off start .. ok now at stop light stop truck after a few seconds feel a little kick if that doesn’t happen stuck in 3/4 gear shut truck off wait few seconds and start usually ok again. If you down shift manually ok as long as you get into 1st before stop. If not it kicks . I WANT A NEW TRANSMISSION. Now I want a new truck it just hit 80,000 IDK IF ILL BUY CHEVY CAUSE THEY STILL HAVE THE PROBLEM AND REFUSE TO RECALL . Oh I’ve changed the fluid and filter 3 times now. And yes used mobile 1 not ac/delco cause it’s not meeting the requirements that mobile is did use ac/delco filter 
    • Of course refrain from political debate but I myself have very dismal hope for what is all going on up here every where we turn so I nodded my head when I saw this joke.     
    • I'm looking at carpal tunnel surgery on my left hand and lumbar fusion. 
    • While waiting for parts I have been working on installing the AC compressor, new accumulator, and orifice tube. Also changed out the high side ball valve (original). The orifice tube that was in there wasn't too bad. Slightly dirty, a little bit of junk, but not blocked. Glad I changed it out.   The accumulator, which should have been a 5 minute job, may have just burned $50. Put some PAG in it, wrote the date and mileage on the side, fresh o-rings and gooey'd up the threads and rings with Nylog. Got everything connected and snugged and was going to vacuum down the system, and....   My manifold gauge won't fit on the port. It's not an R12 service port. It LOOKS like an R134 service port but the diameter is a hair too large. There's a sticker on the accumulator that says it's designed to be used with R12 and R134a systems only. So it's not R1234yf. Even if I reduced the diameter slightly with a file, the shoulder on the port is too large so the quick-connect valve won't lock on. I'm stumped. It's going back, and 50/50 on if they'll give me a refund.   Also, I did a fuel pressure test.... Key on, the gauge spikes to about 60psi and quickly bleeds off, like 2psi per second. The fuel isn't going into the plenum, no smell, starts fine, so I'm guessing there's a bad check valve in the pump and the fuel is just draining back into the tank. oh, hell. But, it shouldn't be a problem, pump primes just fine and the truck starts right up. It just means I can't really ever use fuel pressure to verify a leak at the injector or intake.
    • Got this yesterday out of nowhere. Truck is a 25',6.6 gasser with 8k miles.  Only semi anomaly is that the truck had been sitting, uncranked for 6 days. Elec Stability Control showed immediately upon cranking, not while driving. No drivability issues, just the message. Battery didn't seem to be weak when cranking over.  I drove it, killed it, let it sit a few hrs with no avail.  Truck is 100% stock. No damage. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...