Jump to content

To tune or not to tune - worth voiding the warranty?


OUSux

Recommended Posts

Posted

Seriously on the fence here. Currently have 24,000 miles in 8 months on my Sierra and getting the itch to tune. Custom tune is going to run me $450 Dino tuned, really want to get it done but not sure if it's worth voiding the warranty. Would you or not? Thoughts?

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm in the same boat. I hate the speed limiter and afm. Too scared to jack with warranty issue though

Posted

That's the main reason the only thing with the engine I've done to mine is exhaust. If you do the tune and something goes wrong with the engine (especially internals) you know they wouldn't cover it. My opinion is to wait until the warranty ends then go crazy. I remember when I wanted to do the exhaust (still all legal) I even called the dealer I got the truck from and they basically said not to do anything to it. I know that's just to cover their own ass. From what I hear they would have to prove that your mod is what caused the problem. But, I think it's easier to void a warranty, especially on a truck or sporty car like a Camaro or Mustang. Being that this is my 1st anything with a warranty I guess I'm the same as you and worry a little about warranty.

 

I now after being on here a little I want to change out my gears to 3.73 which I doubt will void anything. My luck though an axle shaft goes out, but I'd risk it lol.

Posted

DO IT!! I've been tuned for roughly 10K Miles. Drove my friends 14 Z71 5.3 (not tuned) the other day, What a dog....

 

Mike

Posted

I wouldn't say they are dogs without a tune, but I did a can tune, glad I did. GM has to prove the mod caused the failure. Go with a name brand for backing if needed. Ive been on different forums for years with different cars and trucks never read a warranty problem with a can tune yet on a gas tune.

Posted

DO IT!! I've been tuned for roughly 10K Miles. Drove my friends 14 Z71 5.3 (not tuned) the other day, What a dog....

 

Mike

Cool, what tune did you go with?

Posted

I think it all boils down to money: are you willing to pay for vehicle repairs if the warranty gets voided? With as many problems as these trucks have had so far, personally, I wouldn't touch a thing until it's out of warranty. But that's because I'm not willing to pay for powertrain repairs that occur within the warranty period regardless of whether the tune caused them or not (I know it won't). I just don't believe a truck in this price range should have major engine or transmission repairs before 100k miles minimum and GM hasn't proven that won't happen. I had a 2007 that was plagued with issues and 2007 turned out to be a bad year for GM. With the way these 2014's are shaping up so far, I'm not sold that this vehicle won't have major problems before 100k miles.

Posted

Id been driving mostly GMs for 40 years, never blew an engine, lost one transmission on a trailblazer ss with a tune. They fix it under warranty, they knew I had a tune just reminded me to remove it. Im a hard driver, some of them I raced. Im not going to live in fear. The salvage yards are full of engines. Id been tuning since tuning been around.

Posted

Mine is tuned. Even had to take it in for misfires last week (had a bad spark plug). I returned the truck to stock tune settings and brought it to the dealer.

 

They did all sorts of data logging and code pulling and had laptops hooked up to it for 3-4 days. Never once did they say anything about the truck being tuned.

 

Just do it.

Posted

Cool, what tune did you go with?

I used a diablo tune from monte ss, that being said. I'm pleased with it,especially the torque management aspect and drive-ability, but I'm looking for more... :freak:

 

And yes I said a non tuned truck exactly like mine, is a dog comparatively, no other way to describe it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...