Jump to content

EPA for 6.2/8 speed is official


Recommended Posts

Posted

I am new here. I have been looking for this info for sometime. Thought it would nice to share.
15/21. Not bad for 420 hp.

 

http://www.fueleconomy.gov/

I ordered a 2015 stone blue metallic Denali with 6.2/8speed last month. It is sitting in a 3100 status.
This should be a big upgrade from my 2010 SLT 5.3

Posted

Only 1 mpg different city/highway with a lower tow rating. Glad I got my 2014 6.2L Denali when I did.

Posted

I try to convince myself that the 6 speed I have is just fine. I think what sticks in my mind is the 14's now appear to be just not good enough that the newer version has the 8 speed. True the 8 speed costs $500 more, but that's nothing these days. Sorry for my gripe here, just my feeling.

Posted

I'm surprised they list the same 15/21 for both 2wd and 4wd... unless I did something wrong. That just seems odd that the 4wd would not have any effect on mpg...

Posted

Only 1 mpg different city/highway with a lower tow rating. Glad I got my 2014 6.2L Denali when I did.

 

Its only down 100lbs per configuration of Denali with 6.2. Not much to gripe about there.

Posted

 

Its only down 100lbs per configuration of Denali with 6.2. Not much to gripe about there.

 

True but you'd thing the parasitic loss in 4wd would be more. either way, impressive figures. I wonder if the 5.3 will gain anything when it eventually gets the 8 speed.

 

Would be nice to see 17 city/24 highway for the 5.3 2wd/4wd.

Posted

 

True but you'd thing the parasitic loss in 4wd would be more. either way, impressive figures. I wonder if the 5.3 will gain anything when it eventually gets the 8 speed.

 

Would be nice to see 17 city/24 highway for the 5.3 2wd/4wd.

 

I wonder how they will play this all out. If the 5.3 and the 4.3 both get the 8 speed, they will get right up to Colorado/Canyon numbers in mpg, atleast on the highway side. So, unless they have some things in store for those two (obviously the diesel is coming but enhancements for the 2.5 and 3.6...) the full sizers I think will be a threat to the midsize.

Posted

 

I wonder how they will play this all out. If the 5.3 and the 4.3 both get the 8 speed, they will get right up to Colorado/Canyon numbers in mpg, atleast on the highway side. So, unless they have some things in store for those two (obviously the diesel is coming but enhancements for the 2.5 and 3.6...) the full sizers I think will be a threat to the midsize.

 

Hell, they could put the 8 speed in the Colorado/canyon too. The transmissions are the same size. Imagine the new colorado/canyon with the Diesel and the 8 speed trans.....that would be impressive MPG me thinks.

Posted

Those are impressive numbers for such a big motor... Almost no reason to buy a 5.3! IMO

Except that GM is stupid and limits it to LTZ/ SLT trims. Even if I could afford that I'd never want all that fluff.

Posted

When I can but a Texas package for 31 OTD with all the stuff I want. Its real hard to spend 10K or better to get the 6.2. Then you factor the 5.3 on E85, and I was in the market for a Denali. With the money I saved I have a real nice toy for the weekend.

Posted

Except that GM is stupid and limits it to LTZ/ SLT trims. Even if I could afford that I'd never want all that fluff.

I can understand GM trying to cut costs in some areas and trying to make more money by Not making certain things available with certain trim levels but not making the 6.2 available in midlevel trucks is a terrible idea.

Posted

I'm surprised they list the same 15/21 for both 2wd and 4wd... unless I did something wrong. That just seems odd that the 4wd would not have any effect on mpg...

I saw the same thing. The 2014 2wd matches it but the 2014 4wd is down 1 mpg both city/hwy.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...