Jump to content

BFG AT KO2

jjhughes2

By jjhughes2
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

namanc6 Enthusiast

namanc6

Posted
Posted (edited)

Leveled 2015 4x4 Z71. Gonna be buying sooner than expected. 275/60r20 or 305/55r20. Leaning toward the latter b/c more meat on the road. Pros and cons of each would be appreciated.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by namanc6
  • Replies 556
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

jjhughes2
jjhughes2

Hey guys I just got a new set of BFG AT KO2 275-60-20 on my 2014 Crew Cab. What do you think?

jjhughes2
jjhughes2

a few more

FormerFordGuy
FormerFordGuy

I can't find any mud in the parking lot of my local mall.

Posted Images

gabekalp Enthusiast

gabekalp

Posted
Posted

 

Dude super clean truck. looking at your truck makes me think I should have put the white letters out. I got my lift done in your neck of the woods by the guys at Camburg

Thanks, I got a buddy that works at the burg.. Good dudes! You running their upper arm? I never see anyone rocking the white walls so that's why I did it.. I wish that bfg would make them with the red and blue like they do for our race tires

  • Like 1
CYNWA Enthusiast

CYNWA

Posted
Posted

Tell us more about this size..... Do you think you could have gone one size larger, or is this the limit for a level? How is the front and rear view?....nice and beefy look? MPG loss? Road noise? OK, enough questions for now.

I've heard of people going as large as 295 with minor trimming but tire would rub at full turn. I decided to go with 285 so i wouldn't have any of those issues. You do get a bit of road noise but very minimal. I notice it around 80-90mph. It doesn't ride as nice as stock but it looks damn good! Here are a few more pics

 

GbyDi08.jpgPD5fofA.jpgIEnM7nl.jpg

  • Like 1
CYNWA Enthusiast

CYNWA

Posted
Posted

Nice! Mind showing a few more? Love those wheels!

Few more up top!RFZFZIx.jpg

morewind New Member

morewind

Posted
Posted

I have run these tires on my 2500 HD for 6 months and 7,000 miles. These tires look awesome and perform really well on the highway, around town and off road (legit soft sand and dirt). I tow a 10,000 trailer once or twice a month and these tires can not handle it. After switching from a set of Michelin LTX's to these, the sway that was created by the KO's was unacceptable. Even worse, after 7,000 miles, my tires are showing over 50% tread ware. A buddy of mine who had these tires on his 3500 HD and tows about as often as I do, only got 12,000 out of these tires. The guys a my local Discount Tire are telling that they are seeing the same thing, namely these tires can not handle the big trucks and they are wearing out fast.

 

If your kicking around town, these tires rock! If you hauling, they don't rock !

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted

I'm wondering if anyone is seeing unusual wear on their front tires. I noticed today that the tread on the outside edges looks like it's wearing more than it should. I assume it's from turning since the back tires don't show this wear at all. I've only got like 4000 miles on mine with essentially no gravel.

 

Pretty much all the lugs on the outside edge of the tire show wear like this, while the ones in the center of the tire are fine. I'm running about 38 PSI in the tires.

I have almost 10k miles on my BFGs and I can't see any noticeable wear. I run my tire pressure at about 50 in front and 55 for the rears. I have about 4K miles of towing a 8k pound travel trailer on these tires too.

  • 2 weeks later...
JRL1164 Enthusiast

JRL1164

Posted
Posted

I'm wondering if anyone is seeing unusual wear on their front tires. I noticed today that the tread on the outside edges looks like it's wearing more than it should. I assume it's from turning since the back tires don't show this wear at all. I've only got like 4000 miles on mine with essentially no gravel.

 

Pretty much all the lugs on the outside edge of the tire show wear like this, while the ones in the center of the tire are fine. I'm running about 38 PSI in the tires.

Try bumping your pressure up. When I put my 275/70R18 I emailed BFG for their recommended pressure and they replied with 48 psi.

rev44 Enthusiast

rev44

Posted
Posted

What tire pressure is everyone running on 275/60/20?

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Clocked92 Enthusiast

Clocked92

Posted
Posted

What tire pressure is everyone running on 275/60/20?

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

I just got off the phone with BFG and they recommend 50 PSI.

 

On a side note, if my tires were wearing poorly because my tire shop underinflated them, is it possible take them back and ask for some sort of reimbursement? Or is it just all on me for not having them inflated properly?

namanc6 Enthusiast

namanc6

Posted
Posted

I'm interested in knowing also, since I'm planning to buy the same tire and size. Gonna buy from Costco because of their warranty.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Red_5 Enthusiast

Red_5

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm interested in knowing also, since I'm planning to buy the same tire and size. Gonna buy from Costco because of their warranty.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I bought my BFGs from Costco and at least at my local store they said there wasn't a wear warranty. It's been over six months so maybe I'm getting that mixed up but I buy a lot of tires from Costco and these were the first that they mentioned there wasn't the usual warranty.

 

Edit: I'm at Costco getting tires rotated on a different car and they said there's no mileage warranty.

Edited by Red_5
namanc6 Enthusiast

namanc6

Posted
Posted

From what I know, there is no mileage warranty on the KO2. I believe there's a wear warranty. But Costco does have a warranty against incidental damage to their tires subject to prorated credit being applied to purchase of the new tire.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Midnight6.2 Enthusiast

Midnight6.2

Posted
Posted

FYI, I also called BFG to get the correct psi on my KO2s. They told me 50psi front and rear. My size is 285/55/r20

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...