Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm going to the dealer on Thursday to get it looked at. I will let you know what they say.

I took mine to the dealer previously, they couldn't reproduce it, as it only happens occasionally on my truck.

Posted

 

A shot of WD40 on each side of the pivot point should eliminate that, it worked for me.

Apparently Chevy is going to replace my pedal. They said they couldn't replicate the noise.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I hesitated to post this but figured I might as well as it's at least mildly related. I noticed today that the throttle response on my truck is very dependent on my foot placement on the gas pedal. I tend to keep my heel between the gas pedal and brake which lets me rotate the top of my foot between the gas pedal and brake. This basically means that I'm pushing on the bottom of the gas pedal. I happened to put my whole foot on the gas pedal in basically a vertical orientation and the throttle is much more responsive.

 

I've probably driven this way my whole life and never noticed that any of my cars were sensitive in this manner. My truck only has 400 miles on it but the throttle response has always seemed very slow unless I really pushed on the pedal. With my foot position adjusted, the throttle feels a lot more responsive. I feel a little goofy writing this but figured it couldn't hurt to throw it out there.

I have the same issue, I broke my ankle back in the day and the foot has a slight right turn to it, so I always have put my foot where you are describing, and have noticed the same thing you are talking about.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

My '15 (build date 3/10/15) w/ adjustable pedals has an amazing amount of flex when pushing the pedal down. I need to find a small piece of .250" thick rubber to try this with mine.

Posted

My '15 (build date 3/10/15) w/ adjustable pedals has an amazing amount of flex when pushing the pedal down. I need to find a small piece of .250" thick rubber to try this with mine.

 

Old big rig/dump truck mud flaps work GREAT for this. My buddy is a mechanic for the PA Turnpike and picked me up one. Cut off a nicer section of the flap for a 2"x1"x0.25" piece and it works great for fixing this.

  • Like 1
Posted

2016 owner here (10/15 build date) - looked at mine after reading this, mine looks completely different But I do have the adjustable pedals.

 

Anyways mine looks more like a plastic cage/box and seems pretty sturdy especially at the bottom bolt everyone is referencing to shim.

 

See attached picture, note bolt at bottom and depth of plastic box coming out around it, this appears to be a different design.

post-157367-0-77216700-1466648507_thumb.jpg

post-157367-0-77216700-1466648507_thumb.jpg

post-157367-0-77216700-1466648507_thumb.jpg

post-157367-0-77216700-1466648507_thumb.jpg

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Bumping this thread because there has been some discussion about lack of power with the 5.3 liter. I firmly believe that everyone should implement the fix found in this thread regarding the gas pedal bracket flexing. It made my trucks "throttle response" much better--it was never an issue with AFM or the engine/tranny, it was the gas pedal flexing!!

Posted

Bumping this thread because there has been some discussion about lack of power with the 5.3 liter. I firmly believe that everyone should implement the fix found in this thread regarding the gas pedal bracket flexing. It made my trucks "throttle response" much better--it was never an issue with AFM or the engine/tranny, it was the gas pedal flexing!!

You put the piece of rubber under the pedal or do something slightly different?

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

damn, noticed this thread and shoved a paint stick behind it. Still some flex but not as bad. Definitely noticed the difference.

 

Someone should take the plastic housing out and 3d print a new one. It's astonishing they found that amount of play acceptable. It looks like it was done intentionally!

Posted

I cut a section off an old round table leg. A disc of hardwood about 4cm across and 1cm deep. Inserted at base of the plastic bracket assembly, pushed up behind it. To give yourself room to push it in, pull OUT on the gas pedal. Insert your chosen shim (imo, hardwood is the perfect material). Then let go of the pedal. The bracket will fall back against your shim and the flex will be gone.

I didnt even have to secure my shim in place. It just sits up here behind the bracket. If you make it big enough, it just wedges itself in there and doesnt move. You cant see anything once its in either.

Posted

I have a 2016 regular cab, no adjustable pedal, had same issue. I loosened the 2 10 mm. nuts that was on cheap aluminum bracket & stuffed old rubber floormat under right corner, tightened it down, no wobble anymore. Have not driven it yet, have a 55 mile round trip to work tonight, am confident this will help, will let everyone know. Gas pedal should not flex on ANYTHING! , nor should brake or emergency brake pedals for that matter. Very cheap design, probably done on purpose for throttle response.

Posted

Well, after driving truck to work & back, fixing the pedal made a huge difference. Truck does not hesitate when initial accelerating. I highly recommend everyone to look at there pedal & modify it. You will notice a difference. Thank you FL335i for bringing this up to everyone, would have never known if it wasn't for your sharing of information!!!! :driving:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...