Jump to content

Heated steering wheel

Dennisfiremanny
 Share

Recommended Posts

gabbygenier Enthusiast

gabbygenier

Posted
Posted

From what I read in the thread the airbag is different. But my guess is something else is different since gm has a different part number.

  • Replies 496
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

redwngr
redwngr

Always figured they were a waste of money. Won't order without it now.

Isriam
Isriam

i use mine a lot. it only takes about 3 minutes to get too hot to hold, so i turn it off after that.   its funny how awesome the steering wheel warmer is and how terrible the seat warmers are.

jay15892
jay15892

I never thought I'd need a heated steering but now that I have one I would not want to live without it! Truly awesome in Alaskan winters..

Posted Images

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

From reviewing the video from Tinkering Fox, his wheel only has 1 air bad sensor in his 2500. In my 1500, I have 2 sensors.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Z-TRUCK Enthusiast

Z-TRUCK

Posted
Posted

 

Yeah, the 2500 clock Spring has 1 wire hookup, the 1500 has 2.

GM has changed even the 1500’s Part number haven’t they.

So other than the air bag it looks identical. I suppose no one has gave this a try yet. 

I’m curious to, and you can’t ask the dealership, they say none of this stuff can change. Thanks 

Z-TRUCK Enthusiast

Z-TRUCK

Posted
Posted

Pgamboa

Would’nt that be corrected with the 2 wire Airbag Clock Spring for the 1500 ? 

Using the 2500 wheel and 1500 clock Spring 

you think? 

 

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

I think if your wheel only has one clock spring input, it might throw a code if your original wheel came with 2... I’m not 100% sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jchoi Enthusiast

Jchoi

Posted
Posted
On 7/11/2018 at 11:18 PM, pgamboa said:

For anyone that is performing this upgrade and finding that they don’t have the clock spring mate down in the footwell to plug into, or they have they the mate but it’s not hot, here is a video I made showing the harness I’ll be making and will be available for $25, Shipped anywhere in the US.

afed374dbb5e36317f5693578e35bc50.jpg

Enjoy!

 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

I looked under my dash, and I have that connector shown in the pic.  I can test whether it’s hot right at the connector correct, or does it require me to take the side panel and check for a fuse and more? Sorry....noob question. Ty Phil. 

  • Like 1
pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted
I looked under my dash, and I have that connector shown in the pic.  I can test whether it’s hot right at the connector correct, or does it require me to take the side panel and check for a fuse and more? Sorry....noob question. Ty Phil. 

No sir. Just start your truck and measure those pins for 12-14VDC.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Jchoi Enthusiast

Jchoi

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, pgamboa said:


No sir. Just start your truck and measure those pins for 12-14VDC.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you sir. I’ll definitely be checking for this. I wonder what determines which wires are connected or not?  I know of something is special ordered, but it seems arbitrary that some have certain connections and others don’t. 

Z-TRUCK Enthusiast

Z-TRUCK

Posted
Posted

I wonder if anyone has any knowledge as to

the 2500 Steering wheel having the heated  wiring 

present,such as a lot of these trucks having the plug present for the heated wheel,although some are hot, but some not?.

 

Oh also, want to give a huge Thanks to Pgamboa & others, whom have made this upgrade possible with their help and sharing.

 

pgamboa Senior Enthusiast

pgamboa

Posted
Posted

I am not sure on this. I only follow the truck forum and not the SUV forum.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jchoi Enthusiast

Jchoi

Posted
Posted
On 7/13/2018 at 8:11 PM, pgamboa said:


No sir. Just start your truck and measure those pins for 12-14VDC.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve got power coming from that plug ? 13.5 v dc 

Z-TRUCK Enthusiast

Z-TRUCK

Posted
Posted

I can’t take credit for this,but thought you all might like to know.

From a GM tech:

Concerning the Difference between the 1500 & 2500 Steering Wheels:

It’s the Weight Dampener, it comes off in 10 seconds by pushing out from the rear side,it’s not an electrical part. It is designed to minimize vibration on the lighter trucks that come up the steering column. The heavier 2500  trucks have more weight and don't require. We plugged this into the 1500’s Clock Spring with heated wheel, success,No problems, no lights.

Trying to post pictures for you. That's all you need to do to add this component onto to make the same as the 1500. it was an easy change over. Remember to use the 1500 Clock Spring With Heat.

ok, Having trouble post pics.

Z-TRUCK Enthusiast

Z-TRUCK

Posted
Posted

When the weight dampener is added, the 2500 is the same as the 1500’s.

The reason for the different GM part numbers.

EDL Enthusiast

EDL

Posted
Posted
On 12/23/2014 at 12:57 PM, PMattras said:

I never had a heated steering wheel and don't see to care about it. Just another thing that will give you trouble later down the road. What is the cost (material and labor) and time to put it in?

I'd never had heated seats until the 2008 Rav4 we had some years ago.  I thought, pssh, that's silly and just more crap to go wrong.  Tell ya what, when the first winter hit after getting the car and it was -17 out, I popped those seats on and thought "heeeeeyyy...this is niiiice."

 

Then later we got the 2014 Grand Cherokee which had heated seats and heated steering wheel, and I thought "Pssshh...heated seats, great, but steering wheel, meh.."   Then the winter came and after clearing snow off it and climbing in with frozen hands, I grabbed that warm wheel and thought "heeeey...this is niiiice."

 

I made damn sure my new Silverado had the heated steering wheel and the heated AND cooled seats.  Turned on that seat cooling and heeeey...it's niiice!

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,294 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • dna9656
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By dna9656 · Posted

      Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • Another JR
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By Another JR · Posted

      The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • XY74
      Roll up bed cover experiences

      By XY74 · Posted

      I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • fm2176
      New to Me 2010 SLE (Quirks, Issues)

      By fm2176 · Posted

      Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • Another JR
      Multigate electrical problem

      By Another JR · Posted

      The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...