Jump to content

vled LMZ led headlights

junkyardz

By junkyardz
in Modifications & Accessories

Recommended Posts

Skeeter McSkeet Senior Enthusiast

Skeeter McSkeet

Posted
Posted

mike- Thanks for the info about the narrow beam pattern. the only reason i wanted to try it was bc my high beams don't put as much light down on the road as i would like. they shoot pretty high, but i think that may be bc of my lift. my low beams are fantastic though. especially with the rigid fogs. is there a way to adjust the headlight down??

I read somewhere on a thread that there are some screws that allow for some up/down adjustments; I can't remember if it was on silvys or sierras or both though. I'm sure someone can chime in on this.

 

According to this post, you can adjust left/right a little as well:

 

I did some playing around this evening. I have always felt that if this lamp assembly had a wide adjustment, the only major complaint we would have is the poor reach-out-and-touch ability while the light is on "high beam."

 

In my case, when on my rural two lane road, with its shoulder on each side, I had hardly any illumination of the oncoming lane (left lane) and its left shoulder. When turning onto a road on the left side--no street light--I turn into absolute darkness. You city boys just don't understand. It is as if you close your eyes.

 

We need a wide/lateral adjustment.

 

There is one! Well, settle down.... The mounting tabs have a bit of wiggle room. All you do is loosen the bolt going through the tab, and play around. There is about 1/4" of adjustment. Below is an image from the manual of the BACK side of the $800.00 lamp (!!!!) assembly. Loosen the PIVOT and the WIDE bolts. Just loosen.... Remember, this is an $800.00 lamp assembly. Be careful of cheap plastic designs.

 

410813911.jpg

 

The WIDE BOLT, move the assembly via a slight tug toward the front of the car. You are pulling. It will come at you about a 1/4". Tighten the WIDE bolt, tighten the PIVOT bolt.

 

I wish I had before and after photos, but I don't. However, let me tell you what I now have. There is an apparent improvement. Instead of a dark left/oncoming lane, it is now illuminated and the left shoulder is now somewhat illuminated. Before I did this, only the lane I was in and the shoulder to right was illuminated, as if I had a burned out drivers side bulb.

 

My left road that I turn into, into total darkness, is now illuminated just enough that I can see it and comfortably enter the road. There is now enough spillage across all the driving lanes. I now have at least what I call a minimal wide.

-Skeet

  • Replies 383
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

mike- Thanks for the info about the narrow beam pattern. the only reason i wanted to try it was bc my high beams don't put as much light down on the road as i would like. they shoot pretty high, but i think that may be bc of my lift. my low beams are fantastic though. especially with the rigid fogs. is there a way to adjust the headlight down??

I read somewhere on a thread that there are some screws that allow for some up/down adjustments; I can't remember if it was on silvys or sierras or both though. I'm sure someone can chime in on this.

 

According to this post, you can adjust left/right a little as well:

 

 

-Skeet

 

Adjustment up and down is controlled by a screw on the top of the headlight. Pop the hood and look at the top of the headlight. You'll see a plastic screw (can use a Philips screwdriver or Alan key. No need to remove any parts. Just pop the hood and you can see the screw through the cover that spans across both headlights.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jon A Senior Enthusiast

Jon A

Posted
Posted

Keep in mind you want to set the height based upon the cutoff of your low beams. After that the high beams will go where they go and there's not much you can do about it. If I remember correctly the SAE spec for lights at our height is the cuttoff being 2" lower than the height of the center of the projector at 25 feet.

 

Yeah my 6000k are pretty much pure white. Maybe a slight hint of blue but not much.
I'm needing some help with adjusting the lights. I screwed the collar all the way to the back then unscrewed it about 3.5 times. The driver side flare pattern flares up on the outside so I guess that not perfectly horizontal. But this is what I got. Notice the two dots above the cutoff, how is that corrected?

6c306562e0f756e08360c3b1766cc9ec.jpg

 

Were you able to reduce the flare on the driver's side? Mine do this somewhat on both sides, but not that bad. You can see your drivers side is much worse than the passenger's. You may try clocking it a little bit left or right and if that doesn't work you could flip it 180 and see if that helps. I don't think some degree of this is an issue as it's far enough to the side it isn't going to bother oncoming traffic or anything, but yours does look a bit excessive.

 

It's funny you mention the two dots. I had forgotten about those! IIRC some adjustments to the bulb would reduce/eliminate them but not without screwing up the beam pattern. I decided the beam pattern was most important and those dots are just a side effect of having a larger light source than the projectors are designed for.

 

They are dim and shine up into the sky so you don't notice them in the real world at all. Like I said, until I saw your pic I had completely forgotten about them!

sawyer_dowell_3 Enthusiast

sawyer_dowell_3

Posted
Posted

Keep in mind you want to set the height based upon the cutoff of your low beams. After that the high beams will go where they go and there's not much you can do about it. If I remember correctly the SAE spec for lights at our height is the cuttoff being 2" lower than the height of the center of the projector at 25 feet.

 

 

Were you able to reduce the flare on the driver's side? Mine do this somewhat on both sides, but not that bad. You can see your drivers side is much worse than the passenger's. You may try clocking it a little bit left or right and if that doesn't work you could flip it 180 and see if that helps. I don't think some degree of this is an issue as it's far enough to the side it isn't going to bother oncoming traffic or anything, but yours does look a bit excessive.

 

It's funny you mention the two dots. I had forgotten about those! IIRC some adjustments to the bulb would reduce/eliminate them but not without screwing up the beam pattern. I decided the beam pattern was most important and those dots are just a side effect of having a larger light source than the projectors are designed for.

 

They are dim and shine up into the sky so you don't notice them in the real world at all. Like I said, until I saw your pic I had completely forgotten about them!

i never notice the dots anymore so im not too worried about them. i may try flipping the light to see if that flare goes away. luckily its on the driver side where its much easier to access! The lights are great the way they are but i was just looking to fine tune them to get them perfect. The flare doesn't cause any problems with the way that the light is distributed in my opinion. So glad we found these lmz's though! couldn't be happier with them! And also thanks to you! for making the covers happen! :thumbs:

Skeeter McSkeet Senior Enthusiast

Skeeter McSkeet

Posted
Posted

Big props to Jon A for making the covers, without him this would not have been an easy mod.

 

I've got a slight flare on my driver side too almost identical to yours Sawyer. Until the weather lets up, mine are staying as is.

 

 

-Skeet

MThompsonjr115 Enthusiast

MThompsonjr115

Posted
Posted

My VLED LMZ setup arrived as well as a set of Jon A's headlight caps!

 

85547515c56563b16d26f76f6bbef645.jpg

 

Temps are dropping to single digits and below, so these will have to wait to be installed... damn!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BigKahuna Enthusiast

BigKahuna

Posted
Posted

So it sounds like the 5000k are the best match to the DRL's. Will they also match Rigid D2's?

 

Just to be clear, we should be ordering a set of 9006's for our Sierras?

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

So it sounds like the 5000k are the best match to the DRL's. Will they also match Rigid D2's?

 

Just to be clear, we should be ordering a set of 9006's for our Sierras?

9006 collar ---> yes

5000K match LED DRLs? ---> yes

 

5000K match D2's ---> no

I had D2's in my fogs recently and they didn't match the DRLs. So sadly you'll have to pick and choose which one you want your LMZs to match with. I don't think 6000K will get you any better of a match to the D2's (I could be wrong though so no one quote me on this! Well, you can quote this post, just don't go around saying "well Mike said ______" haha) but here's a comparison of the 5000K LMZs to the rigid DOTs. It's the most accurate picture I've been able to take so far but it's still not 110% accurate. The DOT pods are more of a pure white with a slight slight blue hue to it whereas the 5000K LMZs are a natural white

 

Direct comparison:

E42ED073-30C1-46C8-9C89-0FCF7A763191_zps

 

Output comparison:

268A08DF-77FB-4F8D-B9DE-D58A8D59721B_zps

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

BigKahuna Enthusiast

BigKahuna

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the reply. I have the JW Speaker LED high/lows in my Peterbilt and using a set of D2's for driving lights, they seem to match perfectly. I prefer a pure white but the little bit of blue that these have doesn't bother me.

 

Maybe the 5000's are the way to go, as long as they aren't a soft/yellowish white like I would expect from a 4000k.

TX_AT Enthusiast

TX_AT

Posted
Posted

aaa72de1962f6744c1279cff8c188ecf.jpg

I received them Thursday but couldn't decide if I wanted to install without the extended bulb cover from Jon A (printer not working).

 

Yesterday, I went ahead and installed them, following Jon A & Mikes instructions for bulb orientation and I was blown away!! Definitely an upgrade from halogens and comparable to HIDs. The bulbs low beams are amazing but they lack a bit in distance with the highs. This is my opinion when comparing them to my g37's oem HIDs which I know has a better projector.

 

Overall, I am extremely satisfied with the results. It just sucks that we have to pay for something that should already be in our vehicles when they leave the factory.

 

Almost a perfect match with my Vleds fog lights and DRL!!

corwest Enthusiast

corwest

Posted
Posted

9006 collar ---> yes

5000K match LED DRLs? ---> yes

 

5000K match D2's ---> no

I had D2's in my fogs recently and they didn't match the DRLs. So sadly you'll have to pick and choose which one you want your LMZs to match with. I don't think 6000K will get you any better of a match to the D2's (I could be wrong though so no one quote me on this! Well, you can quote this post, just don't go around saying "well Mike said ______" haha) but here's a comparison of the 5000K LMZs to the rigid DOTs. It's the most accurate picture I've been able to take so far but it's still not 110% accurate. The DOT pods are more of a pure white with a slight slight blue hue to it whereas the 5000K LMZs are a natural white

 

Direct comparison:

E42ED073-30C1-46C8-9C89-0FCF7A763191_zps

 

Output comparison:

268A08DF-77FB-4F8D-B9DE-D58A8D59721B_zps

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is rigid using Epistar LEDs now? That color is very similar to an epistar led bar I have.
krellheat Enthusiast

krellheat

Posted
Posted

Looks like the Vled LMZ are the way to go with the Sierra headlights. Which 5000k variant should be considered? Their sit lists a 45w and a 25w version.

Skeeter McSkeet Senior Enthusiast

Skeeter McSkeet

Posted
Posted

Looks like the Vled LMZ are the way to go with the Sierra headlights. Which 5000k variant should be considered? Their sit lists a 45w and a 25w version.

Haven't noticed the 25w, we are all running 45w.

 

 

-Skeet

sawyer_dowell_3 Enthusiast

sawyer_dowell_3

Posted
Posted

Looks like the Vled LMZ are the way to go with the Sierra headlights. Which 5000k variant should be considered? Their sit lists a 45w and a 25w version.

I'm sure the 25w would work but they're only 3000 lumens. Go with the 45w

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • twgraham
      Video processing module location

      By twgraham · Posted

      Can someone tell me where the video processing module is in a 2023 Silverado? I'm getting conflicting results that it's in the front passenger area or the rear passenger area behind the seat.
    • Chuck FB
      Missing thrust bearing? And oil selection

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Yes I agree, its what amounts to free advertising to let people know about his UOA testing company, and not that there is anything wrong with that but certainly that is a motivator for putting out videos about the science of oil as well as other topics such as oil and air filtration etc. The interesting part I found with his last video is not only the physics behind the reason for the varying wear due to a diesels working torque range causing more bearing load and that higher viscosity oil is of benefit, it was also that the chemistry behind the GM Dexos 0W-20 and the Mobil Dexos licensed 0W-20 are far enough apart that its showing up with a difference in wear even though the two oils are matched in viscosity and in that comparison viscosity was not having the finger pointed at it.    There are a few youtubers out there or one anyway that I have watched a bit of who has gone through the pains of accessing various countries manuals for a certain engine platform and while in the US/Canada it may say use 0W-20 or what have you for some Toyota product, in some other countries it sings a very different tune for the very same engine with the typical traditional oil viscosity/ambient temperature charts to help choose which oil viscosity is correct for the conditions the vehicle will be used in and in some cases its taken an engine in a US manual that states only use 0W-20 as per warranty coverage and yet that same engine in certain other countries may have up to a 15W-40 etc oil option that meets the spec. Another words the guy who is driving through Death Valley or Phoenix and south weather at 120f is often being fed a line of bs by the US system that has forced vehicle companies to restrict the warranty to a specific low viscosity oil for anterior reasons as well as the long drain interval suggestions.    Thankfully youtube is free ( yet anyway ) for viewers to sift through information and of course comes with the good and the bad ( truth and lies ) and we can choose to turn off/not watch what a person finds is bs or just not interested in the topic.         
    • Atlas
      Missing thrust bearing? And oil selection

      By Atlas · Posted

      No doubt... But, as someone who doesn't pay for his services, but who has provided a few views/clicks on his Youtube platform, the data around the Mobil oil testing I think does have some value including to "freeloaders" like me.   A lot of what he's doing is likely showing the OE's work in their oil selection, something that many of us had kind of assumed was true all along, a good balance of both excellent protection and efficiency.
    • Z45
      Missing thrust bearing? And oil selection

      By Z45 · Posted

      Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • Chuck FB
      summer road trips in the 2026 2500HD

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...