Jump to content

Bilstein shocks thread

yanzhixiang

By yanzhixiang
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

jaimeastin Enthusiast

jaimeastin

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Papa0159 said:

If I am just planning on replacing the rear shocks would that have any effect on the warranty? the bumper to bumper warranty is still good for another year. 

Nope and you will LOVE IT!  I recently did mine... Max 20 mins to install.   I am upset a waited this long, it is just a better ride.  

  • Replies 2.8k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bwilloby46
bwilloby46

I put the bilstein 5100s on the rear of my 14 High Country with a new 2" block a few weeks ago. Ride is unbelievable compared to stock. Liked it so much I got the adjustable 5100s for my front, remove

schloppy
schloppy

Hello, I'm not new to the forum but I just joined and figured I'd contribute to the community.   2016 Silverado 1500 "Z71" removed rancho's and swapped with Bilstein 5100's all around. So after d

Jullian is not my name
Jullian is not my name

I just got done with installing my 6112's on my 2014 GMC Sierra Crew Cab.  Reading some install guides on here really helped, along with printing some Chilton Repair guide torque specs that I got from

Posted Images

Bryan1 New Member

Bryan1

Posted
Posted

5100's on all 4 corners and the front on the top notch. 265/70r18 wild peaks. 

20210211_163508.jpg

  • Like 1
Bryan1 New Member

Bryan1

Posted
Posted

 

5100's on all 4 corners and the front on the top notch. 265/70r18 wild peaks. 

ducklawyer Enthusiast

ducklawyer

Posted
Posted

Just did the 4600s on my 96 and made a world of difference. Maybe bc the originals were 21yrs old!! Either way will be adding the 5100s to my 18 Silverado soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

63494627784__9C008DA0-EB7E-4C97-BC52-6C2E1613D1E1.jpgIMG_1565.jpgIMG_1527.jpg
  • Like 1
ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, ducklawyer said:

Just did the 4600s on my 96 and made a world of difference. Maybe bc the originals were 21yrs old!! Either way will be adding the 5100s to my 18 Silverado soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

63494627784__9C008DA0-EB7E-4C97-BC52-6C2E1613D1E1.jpgIMG_1565.jpgIMG_1527.jpg

Can I have your Tahoe?

 

Nice truck! Gotta love that old 2-door big Blazer type vehicle. I've had 2 of them and wish I had kept them. Possibly in a year or two I will be on the hunt for another one.

  • Like 2
jaimeastin Enthusiast

jaimeastin

Posted
Posted

Went to the shop to get a quote and an appointment to get my 5100 installed on the front of my 18.  Was quoted $315 for install and alignment... I just hate that I have a lifetime alignment with firestone.  The plus is this a a good shop... Another negative is the appointment is 3/9... 

ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted

So, just get them installed at the shop, and aligned at Firestone. Or find out how much Firestone will charge to install them, then align.

 

This isnt rocket science. It's just too dangerous to do without a wall mounted spring compressor.

jaimeastin Enthusiast

jaimeastin

Posted
Posted

Yeah. I will be doing that, i just don't want to to the spring compression

ducklawyer Enthusiast

ducklawyer

Posted
Posted
Can I have your Tahoe?
 
Nice truck! Gotta love that old 2-door big Blazer type vehicle. I've had 2 of them and wish I had kept them. Possibly in a year or two I will be on the hunt for another one.

I looked around for a while for this one. They are getting harder to find in good condition. This one has 147k miles. I’ve bought and sold a few but hope I can keep this one. I could sell this in my area for 8-10k. Not uncommon to see them go for a little more!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, ducklawyer said:


I looked around for a while for this one. They are getting harder to find in good condition. This one has 147k miles. I’ve bought and sold a few but hope I can keep this one. I could sell this in my area for 8-10k. Not uncommon to see them go for a little more!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Would you believe I bought my 94 in 2006 for something like $2,000. I bought my 93 in 2014 or so for even less. Eventually there was enough work to be done on each that I sold them. The rear frame of the 93 cracked on both sides just in front of the rear spring shackles. I am no welder...the 94 was just a bunch of little stuff I could have done given some time. I really should have hung on and just did the work.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
jaimeastin Enthusiast

jaimeastin

Posted
Posted

Finally got my 5100 on the front of my truck.  Took the struts to a machine shop... They used the old lock nuts on the piston rod instead of the flange nuts... Kinda pissed me off.  The machinist said I didn't give him the parts or instructions... He put the flange nuts on the 3 post screws and the instructions were oily.  I talked to him because he was pissed off when the manager talked to him... So then he says the flange nuts were not slas strong to him.  Then he says of-roading will void my warranty anyhow.  I Said, first it's for my safety and not warranty.  Just follow the instructions...

 

This is why I like to do my own work... Anywho..   I went ahead and put them on the truck.  I had them set to the second notch.  The ride is stiffer, but I will check them out more later.  

swoleymammoth Enthusiast

swoleymammoth

Posted
Posted

What prices are you guys paying for a full set front/rear of bilstein 5100s? I’m seeing prices from $380 to $450. Also how much should I expect to pay to have the fronts installed? 

jaimeastin Enthusiast

jaimeastin

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, swoleymammoth said:

What prices are you guys paying for a full set front/rear of bilstein 5100s? I’m seeing prices from $380 to $450. Also how much should I expect to pay to have the fronts installed? 

I was quoted $315 for install and alignment. 

  • Like 1
ThundahBeagle Enthusiast

ThundahBeagle

Posted
Posted

I got my 5100's from Nick at Kolak performance. Paid $360 for front and rears. Did the rears myself and realized getting the fronts out of the coil-overs was an exercise in big ass-pucker factor, so I took the fronts to a local shop that charged me $100 to swap them out. That was $100 well spent, as I got to keep my face and fingers intact AND drive my truck away from there a happy customer. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
jaimeastin Enthusiast

jaimeastin

Posted
Posted
54 minutes ago, ThundahBeagle said:

I got my 5100's from Nick at Kolak performance. Paid $360 for front and rears. Did the rears myself and realized getting the fronts out of the coil-overs was an exercise in big ass-pucker factor, so I took the fronts to a local shop that charged me $100 to swap them out. That was $100 well spent, as I got to keep my face and fingers intact AND drive my truck away from there a happy customer. 

You pair $5 less than I did for the total package and install... Probably less in time too!  Very happy so far

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • KARNUT
      Gas Prices

      By KARNUT · Posted

      3.41 Kroger’s in Montgomery TX
    • diyer2
      HighMileage oils or stay with Dexos 1 ?

      By diyer2 · Posted

      More proof you're a child.
    • fondupot
      Installed Bilstein 5100's on my 2024 2500HD - Worth it - VIDEO + GIVEAWAY Inside

      By fondupot · Posted

      I really wanted to go to the Fox 2.5's But they were like ~$1,500 vs ~$425 for the Bilsteins. And my research on FOX shocks was that they do not have a great reputation for longevity. I am sure they the FOX's are fantastic, but I know from experience the Bilsteins are rock solid for at least 150k miles. 
    • newdude
      Drive Cycle

      By newdude · Posted

      Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start   The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %.   Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure   Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.   Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF.   Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood.   Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.   Start and idle the engine for 2 min.   Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min.   Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min.   Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min.   Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off.   Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min.   Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min.   Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.   If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.   If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator.   Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check.   Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set.       Looks like one procedure to me.  Repeated as necessary.
    • calgator73
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By calgator73 · Posted

      My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k.  I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...