Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have an '18 z71 and im going with the 5100 setup. Will go 1 setting below max on billsteins and not sure on the rear tho. I think i will go 1" taller than stock. Will run 305/65/r18 when my stock are done. I like the z71 wheels and will powdercoat. I got a quote for $80 per wheel from a local shop.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted
On 5/27/2019 at 2:16 PM, manderson7015 said:

I have an '18 z71 and im going with the 5100 setup. Will go 1 setting below max on billsteins and not sure on the rear tho. I think i will go 1" taller than stock. Will run 305/65/r18 when my stock are done. I like the z71 wheels and will powdercoat. I got a quote for $80 per wheel from a local shop.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

 

 

You positive a 305 wide would fit?

that size puts it at a 33.5” tire. 

I’m keeping the stock 20” wheels as well. 

(Off a different 2018, but I like the way they look) I wanted to keep the stock Z71 18” wheels but at the time couldnt find a set from a midnight edition. 

Posted
45 minutes ago, rah7777777 said:

 

 

You positive a 305 wide would fit?

that size puts it at a 33.5” tire. 

I’m keeping the stock 20” wheels as well. 

(Off a different 2018, but I like the way they look) I wanted to keep the stock Z71 18” wheels but at the time couldnt find a set from a midnight edition. 

275/60/20 rubs with bilstein max height. Pretty sure 305 wide is gonna rub, even at 3rd setting.

Posted
2 minutes ago, MBSierra17 said:

275/60/20 rubs with bilstein max height. Pretty sure 305 wide is gonna rub, even at 3rd setting.

How bad of a rub you get? Any idea what part is rubbing? the tread of the tire or sidewall?

From everything I've read, i feel like 275/60-20 is going to be max that will work with Bilsteins only (Set to highest possibly)

Posted
275/60/20 rubs with bilstein max height. Pretty sure 305 wide is gonna rub, even at 3rd setting.
305/60/18 is 32-1/2" tall, 12" wide, 18" wheel. Couldnt you offset with a spacer?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted
305/60/18 is 32-1/2" tall, 12" wide, 18" wheel. Couldnt you offset with a spacer?

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Tire rack tokd me its the biggest i could put under a 2" lift.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, MBSierra17 said:

275/60/20 rubs with bilstein max height. Pretty sure 305 wide is gonna rub, even at 3rd setting.

I'd be interested in hearing where it rubs, and offset? You running 9" stock width on rims?

 

I have the 6112's and 5100's for rear + 2' motofab blocks for rear in my garage. Going to try and get to a shop this week and talk about install, seek additional offset and tire size advice. I've been looking at Fuel and Hostile wheels 20x9 with Offsets ranging from +10 to +20. I was hoping to order wheels and tires online. Can save some decent money + tax. More if you bundle and add TPMS, lugs and so on. I was pretty sure I'd be safe with the 275/60 20 with the 6112 set at max or next setting down. From what I've read, thats a pretty conservative upsize. I think the 305/55/20 is pushing it, but some guys have made it work. 

 

I stopped at a tire shop on Sat. They were busy as hell. One of the guys offered to do a test fitting in the near future. Basically take a wheel and tire that I'm considering (offset + size)and crank the wheel and go from there. He said he'd do the alingment after the level and if I bought tires and rims he'd do the alingment again for free. *I don't intend to have the tire shop install the Bilstein 6112's up front. 

 

I originally wanted to do everything at once. I might do the level first now and then check what additional space I have. If I feel comfortable and have freed up space, I'll order online. If not, I'll try the test fitting and pay a little more. I have 20" rims now with 275/55/20. If I do +12 I'm +.59 farther frrom inner suspension. .55 higher to top of fender. +20 offset and I'm a hair over a 1/4 out from suspension/frame. I know those GM truck wheel wells are tight, but hard to imagine it rubbing. 

Edited by Pivot
Posted

Not prop up rough country but they sell fender wells that get rid of the rub. You can also cutout where they rub.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, manderson7015 said:

Tire rack tokd me its the biggest i could put under a 2" lift.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

Maybe with spacers to offset, but not at +27. You'll probably just move the rub from UCA / sway bar to the fender though. 

Edited by MBSierra17
Posted
1 hour ago, Pivot said:

I'd be interested in hearing where it rubs, and offset? You running 9" stock width on rims?

 

I have the 6112's and 5100's for rear + 2' motofab blocks for rear in my garage. Going to try and get to a shop this week and talk about install, seek additional offset and tire size advice. I've been looking at Fuel and Hostile wheels 20x9 with Offsets ranging from +10 to +20. I was hoping to order wheels and tires online. Can save some decent money + tax. More if you bundle and add TPMS, lugs and so on. I was pretty sure I'd be safe with the 275/60 20 with the 6112 set at max or next setting down. From what I've read, thats a pretty conservative upsize. I think the 305/55/20 is pushing it, but some guys have made it work. 

 

I stopped at a tire shop on Sat. They were busy as hell. One of the guys offered to do a test fitting in the near future. Basically take a wheel and tire that I'm considering (offset + size)and crank the wheel and go from there. He said he'd do the alingment after the level and if I bought tires and rims he'd do the alingment again for free. *I don't intend to have the tire shop install the Bilstein 6112's up front. 

 

I originally wanted to do everything at once. I might do the level first now and then check what additional space I have. If I feel comfortable and have freed up space, I'll order online. If not, I'll try the test fitting and pay a little more. I have 20" rims now with 275/55/20. If I do +12 I'm +.59 farther frrom inner suspension. .55 higher to top of fender. +20 offset and I'm a hair over a 1/4 out from suspension/frame. I know those GM truck wheel wells are tight, but hard to imagine it rubbing. 

Stock 20s rub on the front arm of the UCA's. I'm lifted now, so don't have that problem anymore, but with +12 or +20 you'd be fine with 275/60/20. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
57 minutes ago, manderson7015 said:

Not prop up rough country but they sell fender wells that get rid of the rub. You can also cutout where they rub.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

Can't cut out the suspension and sway bar. +27 with 305 wide, I'd bet you rub more on the inside than you do out. 

Posted
5 hours ago, rah7777777 said:

How bad of a rub you get? Any idea what part is rubbing? the tread of the tire or sidewall?

From everything I've read, i feel like 275/60-20 is going to be max that will work with Bilsteins only (Set to highest possibly)

Sidewall made contact with front arm of the UCA.

Posted
On 5/27/2019 at 10:08 AM, rah7777777 said:

I’ve read and read... now my head hurts!

 

on a stock 2018 Z71, that I assume has the control arms everyone hates, if I install the 5100’s on highest or next to highest setting, with a 33” tire (275/60-20) will I have any rub? 

 

 

Yes, you will rub.

Posted (edited)
On 5/27/2019 at 10:08 AM, rah7777777 said:

I’ve read and read... now my head hurts!

 

on a stock 2018 Z71, that I assume has the control arms everyone hates, if I install the 5100’s on highest or next to highest setting, with a 33” tire (275/60-20) will I have any rub? 

 

 

I just installed the 5100 Bilsteins on front and rear but left the Rugged Off Road bottom strut spacer in place and have the front struts at stock height with the BFG LT275/60/20.  I have no rubbing.  The bottom strut spacer gave me 1.75” of front lift.  Hope this helps with your decision.

Edited by jimbrown1
Posted
1 hour ago, Sierra Dan said:

Yes, you will rub.

 

Is this because of the upper control arm on the newer trucks? 

 

I have a 2014 and was hoping to run 275/60R20 on OEM wheels with my 5100s set at the highest setting.  Do you think I will rub with the older UCAs?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...