Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm sure it doesn't take long, but i'm pretty sure that the Add w1 can doesn't have a a drain on the bottom. Thats why i wanted to add one, and if i add one. It would be just as easy to rig up a a remote drain line. So u don't have to pop the hood regularly on a brand new truck. I am not lazy i just like to make things easy for myself, even if it involves a hour of fab time. I have worked on every car i ever owned, and i am pretty annoyed by the fact that i need to do this to my brand new truck. I was hoping to avoid turning wrenches on this truck for as long as possible

I'm not sure how you plan to run a remote drain line but just keep in mind the system has to stay completely sealed when not draining the can in order to function properly. If not then you'll have vacuum leak and the suction effect from the intake won't be able to evacuate the crankcase gases.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm pretty confident how the system works and simple pitcock at the end of the line would prob do just fine. It was just a thought didn't mean to ruffle feathers. Good luck with ya'lls builds. I'm out.

Posted

I'm pretty confident how the system works and simple pitcock at the end of the line would prob do just fine. It was just a thought didn't mean to ruffle feathers. Good luck with ya'lls builds. I'm out.

How did you interpret my post as you ruffling feathers? I was just making a statement about vacuum leaks haha. Anyway good luck with your build.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

That stainless steel pad stuff gives me the eebee-jeebee's. One little piece of that stuff in the wrong place would make a mess. Sure it's a longshot, but still...it ain't made to be filter material in an engine. Stuff could break off...vibration, pressure pulsing, etc..

Edited by spurshot
  • Like 1
Posted

That stainless steel pad stuff gives me the eebee-jeebee's. One little piece of that stuff in the wrong place would make a mess. Sure it's a longshot, but still...it ain't made to be filter material in an engine. Stuff could break off...vibration, pressure pulsing, etc..

 

Yeah that worries me too. I don't mean to keep being a champion of RX just because that's what I bought but their system comes ready to use with the filter media installed and all so I feel after as many years as they've been doing this, they've got a product people trust that works.

 

But again, I'm not trying to be a champion of just that brand. I don't like how I can't open the can to clean it and I don't like how there's no way to monitor the level inside, you just have to drain it often to be safe. I'm sure other brands are great as well.

Posted

 

Yeah that worries me too. I don't mean to keep being a champion of RX just because that's what I bought but their system comes ready to use with the filter media installed and all so I feel after as many years as they've been doing this, they've got a product people trust that works.

 

But again, I'm not trying to be a champion of just that brand. I don't like how I can't open the can to clean it and I don't like how there's no way to monitor the level inside, you just have to drain it often to be safe. I'm sure other brands are great as well.

 

The Elite can is very similar, but to drain it you have to unscrew the bottom of the can. Nice that you can see the level at that point but I can also see a drain petcock being convenient. The reason I went with Elite is because I have one installed on my 2011 Z06.

Posted

 

The Elite can is very similar, but to drain it you have to unscrew the bottom of the can. Nice that you can see the level at that point but I can also see a drain petcock being convenient. The reason I went with Elite is because I have one installed on my 2011 Z06.

 

Yeah I like the ability of the elite to be easily opened up and cleaned out. I can clean the RX but I basically have to remove it and spray carburetor cleaner inside and shake it up and drain it. Not a huge deal but kind of a pain at the same time. RX claims you don't really need to clean them though so I don't know. Some type of dipstick or clear tube like other brands have to monitor the level would be very helpful as well. I think I should have gotten the monster can from RX since the weather gets so cold here in the winter and I have to drain it so often. Like every 500-700 miles in the winter I was getting about 6 oz of fluid out of it. There's no way I'd last more than 1,000 miles in the cold months without draining it.

Posted

Cold? In Virginia? You guys don't know cold!

:P

  • Like 1
Posted

 

The Elite can is very similar, but to drain it you have to unscrew the bottom of the can. Nice that you can see the level at that point but I can also see a drain petcock being convenient. The reason I went with Elite is because I have one installed on my 2011 Z06.

 

I have a couple of Elite cans and the older one has a petcock. Elite discontinued the petcocks around 2006 so drilling and tapping the bottom of one of the new ones should work fine.

Posted

Cold? In Virginia? You guys don't know cold!

:P

 

 

We just have wack ass weather here in VA

 

 

Haha I don't doubt that!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

I'm in northeast NC and even though if it gets below 0 it's only overnight and for 2-3 days at the most and rarely gets a high in the single digits, but around here the weather can literally change from day to day. 1 day it can be 40 as a high and the next it will have 75 as a high. The weather in this part of the country is just bi-polar (like me) lol.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I just ordered a black one tonight, thanks for the info,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 2,187 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...