Jump to content

Intake clean. WOW!

bdbake01

By bdbake01
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

bkesting Enthusiast

bkesting

Posted
Posted
On 1/27/2018 at 9:43 PM, Austin66 said:

Get the CRC GDI IVD cleaner.  

 

It's better or different than the Seafoam treatment? I have the Seafoam stuff already, but if CRC is better I'll do an exchange

  • Replies 258
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

bdbake01
bdbake01

yep, gotta admit the scraper is genius. Probably more reliable than the wife. DEFINITELY less mouthy about the situation.

nadrojcote
nadrojcote

I just did my truck with seafoam. I can't tell a huge difference yet, but we will see over time. Used my window scraper to keep the rpm around 2000.  

bdbake01
bdbake01

Ok, so lately I've been noticing the 6.2 stumbling a bit, hesitating, lower mileage - even more than expected for winter - etc. and began getting more concerned about intake valve buildup. 26k miles

Posted Images

Aaron1085 Senior Enthusiast

Aaron1085

Posted
Posted

Man, my driving is conservative, 85% around town and my 5.3 with 21,000 miles averages 16mpg.

Perhaps going 80+ on the highway doesn't help but still ... figured I'd do a touch better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Austin66 Enthusiast

Austin66

Posted
Posted
23 hours ago, tanner709 said:

 Awesome thanks for the info, I appreciate it. I'll be looking into this method as I have 30k miles on the truck, no preventative maintenance/mods done in regards to this buildup.

 

Do you have any pictures, before and after?

Unfortunately, no I didn't take pics.  There've been a few users on here that have taken pics with trucks in the 40-60k mileage range.  It basically looked like that so I didn't see the point.  I did spic n span on the first valve and port and after that said screw the port and just did the valves lol.  It was taking alot of time.  Not to mention, the back 2 valves, if you don't have a borescope, you have to jam your head in an inch from the port to look inside.  Not fun.  

Austin66 Enthusiast

Austin66

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, bkesting said:

 

It's better or different than the Seafoam treatment? I have the Seafoam stuff already, but if CRC is better I'll do an exchange

The CRC is made for the exact issue this thread is about: oil coking/buildup on the back of direct injection valves.  Its like a couple bucks more than the seafoam aerosal.  Just get it.

bkesting Enthusiast

bkesting

Posted
Posted
52 minutes ago, Austin66 said:

The CRC is made for the exact issue this thread is about: oil coking/buildup on the back of direct injection valves.  Its like a couple bucks more than the seafoam aerosal.  Just get it.

That's why I love this forum! I will do that. Does the CRC product come with the same type of applicator straw like the Seafoam product?

F4Gary Enthusiast

F4Gary

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, bkesting said:

That's why I love this forum! I will do that. Does the CRC product come with the same type of applicator straw like the Seafoam product?

If you take the intake tube off, you don't need the straw.  Just hold the can in front of the throttle body butterfly valve and spray away.

I did this a couple of weeks ago with 56,000 miles on my truck.  I can't really tell a difference around town.

bkesting Enthusiast

bkesting

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, F4Gary said:

If you take the intake tube off, you don't need the straw.  Just hold the can in front of the throttle body butterfly valve and spray away.

I did this a couple of weeks ago with 56,000 miles on my truck.  I can't really tell a difference around town.

Doing some research online and I see quite a few posts from people who say not to spray any type of cleaner into the engine as it has a good chance to cause damage to pistons and cylinder walls from large pieces of crystalized deposits breaking off.

 

What are some of your guys' opinions on this?

Pearl2017 Enthusiast

Pearl2017

Posted
Posted

I wouldn't and wont hesitate run a cleaner thru the intake when the time comes. The carbon wont hurt anything unless you do the clean then run in V4 mode running it thru. My thinking is that part of what makes these engines so powerful is their ability to move large amounts of air thru the combustion chambers. This means that exhaust evacuation and scavenging works really really well. So when the exhaust valve opens does anyone believe that tiny bits of relatively light carbon wont get sucked out of the cylinders?. And of course the catalytic incinerator underneath wont have too much trouble digesting what comes thru either within reason. $.02

  • Thanks 1
Austin66 Enthusiast

Austin66

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, bkesting said:

Doing some research online and I see quite a few posts from people who say not to spray any type of cleaner into the engine as it has a good chance to cause damage to pistons and cylinder walls from large pieces of crystalized deposits breaking off.

 

What are some of your guys' opinions on this?

That was part of the reason I decided to manually clean.  I was concerned about too much junk getting sucked into the cc.  Would CRC/seafoam/etc be effective enough to do this?  I don't know and I honestly didn't want to find out.  I can tell you while the non-afm valves were lightly coated with sludge, the base of the afm valve stems were completely caked.  It was hideous.  Easily took me 3-4 times as long to completely clean.

truckguy82 Senior Enthusiast

truckguy82

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, Pearl2017 said:

I wouldn't and wont hesitate run a cleaner thru the intake when the time comes. The carbon wont hurt anything unless you do the clean then run in V4 mode running it thru. My thinking is that part of what makes these engines so powerful is their ability to move large amounts of air thru the combustion chambers. This means that exhaust evacuation and scavenging works really really well. So when the exhaust valve opens does anyone believe that tiny bits of relatively light carbon wont get sucked out of the cylinders?. And of course the catalytic incinerator underneath wont have too much trouble digesting what comes thru either within reason. $.02

Self cleaning oven that turns carbon into dust = 900-1000 degrees

 

catalytic converter = 1200-1600 degrees

nluchau Enthusiast

nluchau

Posted
Posted

I thought I had read somewhere where an oil change is recommended after doing this?  Can anyone tell me if this is true?  I just had an oil change but I would like to try this.  

 

Thanks

sk Senior Enthusiast

sk

Posted
Posted (edited)

If you want a really great cleaning look for a shop that offers BG Products services.  They actually force cleaners through all the major systems using special equipment.  If you have it done regularly they even have a warranty on the serviced systems (fuel, trans, oil, steering, brakes, etc. depending on which package you get).  It can get a little costly but if you are keeping the vehicle for a while it is worth it.

 

You can also buy individual bottles of some of their cleaners and put it in the system by yourself just like Seafoam, CRC, etc.  This doesn't do as good a job as the Professional service and doesn't carry a warranty but it still helps a lot.

 

https://www.bgprod.com/

Edited by sk
Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, sk said:

If you want a really great cleaning look for a shop that offers BG Products services.  They actually force cleaners through all the major systems using special equipment.  If you have it done regularly they even have a warranty on the serviced systems (fuel, trans, oil, steering, brakes, etc. depending on which package you get).  It can get a little costly but if you are keeping the vehicle for a while it is worth it.

 

You can also buy individual bottles of some of their cleaners and put it in the system by yourself just like Seafoam, CRC, etc.  This doesn't do as good a job as the Professional service and doesn't carry a warranty but it still helps a lot.

 

https://www.bgprod.com/

Ditto. 

SWOYER Enthusiast

SWOYER

Posted
Posted

Haven't had a chance to do the CRC yet, but I'm gonna do it soon, hear good things. I think the VW guys have it the worst with the GDI engines, and I assume our problems will be similar even if slower

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...